Minuit

The curved backs were an option until sometime after Chrysler bought Jeep. They were gone by 91 for sure. A well optioned early Renix or pre-Renix XJ should have them. I sat in a really nice XJ with them once - they were cool but not cool enough for me to bother swapping them into an MJ.

So, what did the upgraded "Accusound by Jensen" sound system come with? Well, most of the Jeep community knows it as the factory junk you throw away to swap in a set of Kickers, and for once they're probably right... but what is it exactly? You can tell that an XJ has Accusound by the speaker grilles. Shown are Limited door panels, although the Jensen system was available on several trims, and sometimes it mandatory on certain trims - Limited for example. It was never available on the MJ. The grilles are not interchangeable with the normal ones. Fun fact: power windows were mandatory with the Jensen system because the window cranks would hit the larger than usual speaker grilles. This is a radio thread, so we have to talk about the radio. The Jensen system gave you the best radio available for the model year. There's no special radios for the Jensen system, you just got the top level radio for the year. Pictured is a 56007214, but depending on the year the equipped radio would vary. In the Chrysler years, you got whatever tape deck was sitting around that particular year. In the AMC years, I believe you got the DNR radio. There isn't an amplifier, still just the head unit. Amplifiers wouldn't come stock in XJs until the 97+ Infinity systems which are beyond the scope of this thread. What do those vents on the knee panel do? Pretty common question. Well, they're the grilles for the Jensen-specific dash tweeters! These screw in to the lower dash panel, and are side-specific. These have the plugs cut off of them - there should be a 2-pin free-hanging connector on each tweeter. In my experience these tweeters sound surprisingly good. Both of my sets appear to be 8-ohm impedance. I run a set that still have the plugs on my truck, and they sound good even when matched with modern aftermarket speakers. There are bass-blocking capacitors soldered to the backs of the tweeters to act as a passive crossover. They are simply wired in parallel with the door speakers. Nothing fancy. If you add these, be very careful to not use too long of a screw. The screws the factory used are roughly a half inch long - overly long screws will punch through the front of the knee panel. I really do think these are still viable(if not competition grade), and they have the advantage of fitting right in with no fab work required. I don't believe the front door speakers are anything fancy. On the XJs I've torn apart at the junkyard, they look just like the standard factory speakers. They are paper-cone speakers and probably have little value besides being quite efficient. I can't find any information either way. It would make sense for them to be a midrange speaker with no "wizzer cone" but I can't say for sure. I can't find their impedance either. Part numbers are different for the Jensen versions, but I don't know what the difference is. I would not run them even if you found a NOS set, because the cones and surrounds have probably deteriorated anyway. They probably wouldn't live very long if you have even a modest amplifier. The rear liftgate speakers are something a little different, though. In fact, you can still buy them! They are a 2-way affair with coaxial tweeters similar to what is found in the dash. Impedance probably depends on the radio they came with from the factory. Sadly, they're made of paper and are of little real value when there are so many aftermarket speakers out there. They are probably a little more efficient than a typical aftermarket speaker, though. I'm kinda curious how they would sound, but not $50 per pair curious. Finally, usually but not always you got a power antenna, which are still available in the aftermarket. It's controlled by a relay mounted to the bottom of the dash, right below the cubby hole under the glove box. The wiring is very simple: - one wire from the XJ-only ANT fuse, hot at all times - one wire from the radio, hot when the radio is on - ground Here is what the antenna assembly looks like: It mounts under the passenger side fender with a special bracket. All XJs and MJs (possibly 1987 and later? Need to confirm) have the mount under the passenger side fender, but an extra L-shaped bracket is needed. You can tell a power antenna from a standard one by looking at how the antenna is fastened to the fender. If there's a nut with four grooves at the base of the antenna, it's power. A standard antenna will just have the antenna mast screwed onto the base. Fun fact: the Jeep power antenna, p/n 56003151, is a direct replacement for some GM power antennas, notably on 1980s Camaros and Firebirds. How did it sound? Hard to say, I'm not a time traveler. It sounds terrible these days on account of the paper speakers not holding up, but when new I'm sure it was better with a more clear sound than the standard system. A factory radio with decent, modern aftermarket speakers probably sounds better than the Jensen system ever did. These days, the Jensen system components are pretty much totally obsolete, except for the tweeters and maybe the power antenna if you like power antennas.

Here's a stupid one that happened to me a week or so ago... It's possible to plug in the blower speed switch "half way" so that only one set of contacts is actually plugged in. If you do this the fan will only work on low. Don't be a dum dum like me and put your dash all the way back together just to have to take it back apart again to plug the stupid connector in properly.

Yes, the headlight relay harness is a very worthwhile upgrade. Even moreso if you ditch the sealed beam headlights and go with a quality set of H4 composite headlights. After adding the harness my sealed beams were a little bit brighter, but the main benefit is knowing that your headlight switch isn't getting the full current from both headlights, it's just triggering relays for them now. Headlight switches and blower motor switches are the most common source of fires on these trucks. All too often I see a burned up XJ or MJ at the junkyard that seems to have lit up at one of those two places first. I've never really heard of an upgraded turn signal socket as a common thing either. Maybe they're more sealed up from water intrusion? If it is a thing, it's not something you hear about often. If you really need to replace the socket, the stock one should be fine.

So you're the one who bought that 2467 I was watching? :P Looks like you got you a nice one. Was it the auction listing? Let me know if you need any help with this stuff.

Neither did mine - no speakers in the doors and the build sheet had the "radio delete" option on it. How far we've come...

On here mostly. Every now and then a set appears. You could also modify your bench brackets. Of course the junkyard is an option too, but it's the luck of the draw whether you'll find one with buckets.

Pretty sure I've read a thread or two in the past saying that they do fit, but they're just not quite right. For that price you could get a nice set of OEM brackets and probably some seats to go with them anyway.

I got my first Comanche when I was 15 years old. Still have it now - actually, it's parked about 50 feet from me as I type this. Learn how to do things right. A 91 Comanche is truly something special, so do it justice no matter what you plan on doing to it. Treat it nice or you'll really regret it later on. These trucks are at the point where they're going up in value. If I were you, I wouldn't do anything I couldn't undo. Some day you might want to turn the truck back to how it came from the factory. I've regretted it every time I've gotten rid of my truck's original parts. Every time I see someone take a cutting wheel to one of these trucks I die a little bit inside. Some handling mods to start you off would be a 28mm front sway bar, 1999-2004 Grand Cherokee front lower control arms, and new suspension parts wherever they're needed. Those are fairly easy jobs and won't permanently change anything about your truck. I haven't done it yet but adding a rear sway bar seems to really tighten up the handling too.

So basically it's just an official version of the JK truck conversions we've had for years? I could not be less interested. At least they didn't name it Comanche like you said - that would make me care, in a very negative way.

Yep, I had a dinky tiny radiator too. My truck was totally optionless except for the 4.0, A/C and automatic trans.

There's a couple reasons why I haven't posted them. The main one is that the transmission tailshaft bushing is worn and is making quite a bit of noise which will obviously skew the numbers with junk noise that shouldn't be there. That also makes it hard to tell how much quieter it is by ear, since the noise from the bushing drowns out most road/exhaust noise at speed. I also haven't done anything to the doors yet - that will happen soon. Before the soundproofing, highway driving at 70mph with the windows up, radio off, and AC on low gave a steady 78 dB on multiple roads on multiple days in multiple directions. At 50 the readings were between 75-76 dB. Not the worst I've seen, but definitely not ideal. The truck never was "earplugs required" loud but it was unpleasant to listen to for hours at a time. There's also substantial wind noise in my truck. I'm attributing that at least partially to $#!&ty aftermarket weatherstripping, but that needs to be dealt with separately. I do not expect MLV to make any difference whatsoever for wind noise. For reference, highway numbers for my T-bird (which still has the awful, rock hard tires the PO put on it) are about 75, and my father's 200k mile Buick with new tires does about 73-74. From the little driving I've done since then, (bearing in mind that the output bushing makes a pretty nasty noise) it seems like the road noise is down substantially. I can't wait to see what the numbers say, I just have to do some housekeeping first. Here are some pics of the installation to tide you over: (this is CCF, but the MLV was cut to the same pattern - I used scraps to fill the gap where the trans tunnel meets the floor pan) (I was really down to scraps by this point, if you couldn't tell)

I'll make a post later with much more detailed info, but the interior is almost to the point where I can say it's almost where I want it to be: A few remarks for now: - The carpet is from Stockinteriors.com in the color "Mist Grey" - in person it is an almost exact match for the darker grey parts of the interior. I got the standard cutpile carpet with mass backing. The backing is basically identical to the OEM carpet. It took some convincing, and I probably could work on it some more, but in the end I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The only place it's iffy is at the very back where the jack is stowed, but I think I can make it look much nicer with some more tuning. - The transmission output bushing is bad, which makes it hard to judge the sound level, but it does seem significantly quieter with MLV on the floors, firewall, and cab rear. After I do the doors and fix the output bushing, I'll get some SPL readings. - I bought 40 square feet of mass loaded vinyl from Trademark Soundproofing, and that was enough to completely cover the floors, the cab rear, some of the firewall, and the B pillars up to the rear window. 2 sheets of 1/8" neoprene CCF from Foambymail.com was enough to back the MLV with some extra to make gaskets. - I took the time to source a NOS A/C evaporator, and if I were doing this again I probably would just go aftermarket. My reason for using an OEM evaporator was to keep the temperature probe which cuts the A/C if the evaporator freezes up, but that's really not a big deal. In addition the probe is a huge pain in the @$$ to extract in one piece. The aftermarket evaporators are also parallel flow and very similar to the 97+ part, which makes them more efficient in an R-134a application. - Speaking of A/C, I need to get along with rebuilding this system. After driving more modern cars for a while, this truck's A/C is "just ok." I think it may be undercharged slightly. I broke the scale I usually use to weigh refrigerant cans when charging! - The dash is from a '96 Cherokee. In my state it is legal to swap dashboards for restoration purposes. The old dash looked ok but many of the attachment points for things like the dash bezel were destroyed. The '96 dash doesn't have the two clips for the dash bezel on either side of the steering wheel, so for now I took an old crappy dash bezel and cut the clips off to fit. - I'm really torn on what sort of door panels I should get. That's why I still have the ones with the holes for the window cranks cut out. - It's not in the picture, but I fixed the tear in the driver side seat cover.

Damn, that looks great.

I still have my column shift stuff around but I won't be able to get to it until Friday afternoon. If I recall correctly the cable and grommet were both in excellent shape.

'91 2wd 4.0, 170k miles. My silver truck. I just finished a major overhaul of the interior and I'd really like to drive it. Problem is, I'm a stupid idiot and forgot to have the transmission tailshaft bushing changed while the truck was down (I even have the parts sitting on my night stand!). It's got all of the symptoms of a bad tailshaft bushing - I can rock the slip yoke around noticeably, there's some ATF sprayed around, and there's a "ruum ruum" sound in the cab accompanied by a minor vibration. Would it be dangerous to drive on this for about a week, with some highway mixed in?

That theme looks great. I for one would really appreciate having a darker theme, since... well, I spend way too much time on CC on the wrong end of midnight :D Thanks for everything you do Alexia.

The only MJs I can think of that are actually worth 13k to me at the moment have been extremely low mile garage queens from the day they left the showroom or extremely well done restorations and as Eagle has pointed out that truck is as far from restored as it gets. I may be biased, since this "style" of build is very common and it's not my favorite way to outfit an MJ. It's a 97+ grille away from looking just like most of the big money builds out there. With that said, it really does look like it's been built well. I wouldn't pay that much for it, but it's not my style of MJ. If it is what you like I don't think it's a bad buy by any means - it's a very subjective kind of thing, and if you like the truck enough and are willing to pay big bucks for one that's been sorted out already, who are we to judge?

Here it is for Chrome and other Chrome based browsers. Worked for me.

Ooh, that's good. Never broken one but there's been some white knuckle moments for sure. Here's another tip for us automatic folks: If you can get it off without breaking it, there's usually no need to go buy a new neutral safety switch. They typically don't "go bad" per se - the most common problem is dirt/gunk/petrified grease inside of them causing the contacts inside to make poor contact. They can be taken apart and cleaned pretty easily. Just make sure you don't lose any of the small springs and contacts inside of them. Typical symptoms of a dirty NSS include intermittent or non-working reverse lights and no-crank no-start that is sometimes rectified by wiggling the shifter. You may notice that these symptoms get worse with time.

The NSS can be easily cleaned. Just make sure not to lose any of the little parts (when I work with things that have tiny parts in them, I do it working inside of a trash bag so any parts that go flying would be caught)

Thanks :cheers:

I was in Nashville today. It was darkest for about 30 seconds. Didn't see it for the whole time because of clouds but they did part at the end of totality. Pretty neat to see in person.

Yep, the CPS needs to be ruled out first when anything like this happens. If by "coal" do you mean the brushes in the motor? Yes you can, and the starters are fairly easy to rebuild. In the US at least the parts to do so are inexpensive. Would be an excellent time to clean the internal workings as they get oil and gunk inside of them over time.

I also have loads of dust from semi-metallic pads (Raybestos I think). I know it's not a fair comparison but I put Raybestos ceramic pads on a friend's 2001 Impala and he had very little dust. My wheels are purple-brown within about 500 miles. I'll be going ceramic in the future for sure.