sloride

I'm with jimoshel and tubpilot on this. 25years ago I worked at TWA overhaul base here in KC in the engineering department. Edge distance and spacing between rivets is key. But for someone that can't weld, another option might be to have 'welder-for-hire' do your pans for you. Some will show up at your door while others have a shop. You might have a neighbor that as a MIG that will do it for a case of beer. Its just a thought.

^^^^agree Use a screw driver or ratchet extension for a stethoscope, put one end to the suspect part squeaking and the other end to your ear. This way you know for sure. Maybe more than one thing is squeaking on you. I've seen it before. As for the wiring? Good luck there. Find a good copy of the wiring diagram for your truck and start investigating what belongs and what doesn't.

Need more information about your ride. Calipers original to the truck? I was about to ask the same thing as Eagle. Did previous owner swap out OEM bleeders for Speed Bleeders and the spring/ball assy has become faulty. Check out this website to see what I'm talking about. http://speedbleeder.com/

O2 sensor been replaced lately?

That does make sense. But what machine parts used in production cars/trucks are perfectly smooth? Machine it and kick it to the curb as quick as they can has been my experience. The machine finish can't be any smoother for after market parts can it? Would the factory, lets say, use 125rms finish to machine their gears and the after market do theirs say at 63rms which would be smoother than factory? Or is it the opposite, thus requiring a break in period for aftermarket parts that would be rougher instead of the smoother factory parts? Either way you slice it, the truck is your baby. Treat it like such if you want. No one will fault you for that.

O2 sensor been changed recently?

Stock parts basically. RockAuto parts mostly sprinkled with visits to Napa or Advance Auto (Napa & Advance have warehouses here in KC). Moog tie rod ends.................. Same parts was used through several make model years.

I did what you're basically planning to do, stock piled the parts before actually tearing into it. Stock pile included AX15 with T/C from a '96 Cherokee, front and rear axle assy from '98 Cherokee, new springs all around, new clutch/pressure plate, slave cylinder, new shocks, new brake lines at the corners. I used disc brakes off a '94 Grand Cherokee for the rear. Got rid of the load sensing brake valve in back. Went to a adjustable prop valve. (had one left over from the GTO)... Changed the oil pan gasket with the front axle assy out. (You'll regret not doing that if you don't, IMO.) It was rusty so I Por15 the pan. New tie rod ends, track bar, drag link just to name a few others that fell on the stock pile of parts..... The TC linkage I fabed up. Its not pretty but works. The tranny cross member I fabed my own 'drop' portion for the AX-15. Oh, tranny mount was also new along with the shifter, shifter floor boot, bushings, gasket.

:agree: With whats been said. You might consider ditching the plastic line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I followed the braided line conversion that terrawombat did for my external slave cylinder. (The plastic line I put back on melted on the manifold. Yeah, live and learn.) terrawombat's write up: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28758-ax-15-clutch-slave-line-popped-out-now-fixed-with-pics/ Here's another similar. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ax-15-internal-external-slave-cylinder-clutch-line-write-up-592098/

Explore the net using SearchTempest.......... http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/4151349955.html ie: keep looking.

Puegeot tranny from 13miles on the OD new to my ax-15 swap a year ago never failed me once, aside from the clutch throw out bearing leaking like a sieve at a stop sign in rush hour traffic in 1995. It use to scratch third like some claim for me as well back in the day. Did I give it its fair sure of abuse, yep. I drove it like I stole it...... I swapped to an AX-15 to convert to 4wheel drive a year ago. How hard is it? Depends the last time the tranny was out of the truck and your mechanical apptitude. I had to use a 'come along' to seperate the tranny from the block. (The input shaft was seized to the input bearing.) If you can turn a wrench, its pretty straight forward. And looking at your resume list of vehicles in your bio, it would appear you're not stranger to doing the swap. As for as the cost.... Depends where you source your parts, from a junk yard or a parts supplier. I got my tranny and transfer case from a supplier. I paid more than if I got it at a pick and pull. I didn't have to pull the parts, the mileage on them was under 100k and came with a warranty. It comes down to what you think your time is worth versus the parts total worth. At the time, my time was worth a lot........ As for the HO swap, can't help you there....

I would tell your friend to keep looking. http://bgky.craigslist.org/cto/4095886991.html

A little more money and he could have something different. http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/4100338153.html

For $1500 he could have two comanches........ http://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/4105353070.html

I'm in the same boat as you are when it comes to finding lines for my '88 and I've only found one line to buy. I'm thinking of just going to a shop and have them make me the lines I need.

Have you considered doing away with the load sensing valve and going with an adjustable proportioning valve? When I converted my '88 to disc, that's what I did. Worked like a charm. I'd recommend getting the speed bleeders, a huge time/labor saver.

I was under the assumption you had the diff down to bare bones. Using Super Clean with the seals in place might not be a good idea....... Are you talking bearing scorch marks? Is there a ridge in the shaft from the bearing race? Have you checked shaft diameter, bearing surface to non bearing surface?

Beautiful, simply beautiful! That is so sweet! Awesome job!

This stuff is bio friendly and cleans up with water. I'd use super clean, a brush, a hose and finish with a heaping helping of WD-40 (Water Dissipater-40) http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-CLEAN-DEGREASER-GALLON/dp/B000CCM63K

Any machine shop should be able to use an engine lathe to chuck up a hub and face that ridge off.

Its pretty straight forward as previous posters have said. I put a AX15 from a '96 XJ in my '88. Used '74 CJ with 304 V8 pilot busing (Dorman P/N: 690-042) that the others mention. The AX15 cross member I didn't have so I modified my existing cross member to work. Just cut the center portion the tranny sits on and lowered it an inch and rewelded it back together. The holes in the cross memeber I had to slot to make work since it moved from the original position. When you get to that point you'll realize what you need to do to make work. You'll need to figure out how to isolate the exhaust pipe since the tanny mount you'll need won't support the exhaust pipe like the one you had before..

You might get an auto stethoscope and see if you can pin point the sound's origin that way. If you don't have one of those you might look in your tool box. I've used everything from an extra long screw driver to round bar stock to even a crow bar to hear where a squeak is coming from. Place one end on the suspect part and the other to your ear is all you do.

I ordered my '88 without the radio. It came with antenna installed. I slapped in an aftermarket cassette deck with speakers, plugged in the factory antenna lead and was good to go.

Get yourself set of speedbleeders. You'll be glad you did.

I guess it all comes down to where you live and if you think its a necessity. My '88 never had moldings and in all these 25years, I've only received on major ding from some clueless lady driving a '70 something LTD (six foot long doors)......... If this is your daily driver and people are disrespectful with others property at the local grocery store, put the molding on..... I think it looks better without. But if you had the black molding around the wheel openings like mine has, then I'd being leaning toward putting it back on. ... Nice paint job by the way!