sloride

Yikes! I did not know that was a problem on these trucks. Welding it not an option? Stop drill the crack at the ends, bevel prep the entire crack then weld???

Thanks Hornbrod. I still have a problem. I kinda figured Agnus or Lucy when they were making the wire looms at AMC ran out of the orange w tracer wire and used another orange wire to meet a quota or month end. So I'll look into ac clutch relay, if that's even related. I have the '88 wiring schematic that I've had since '89. Probably would of had it in '88, but you know how it was, get order form from parts counter, write a check, mail and wait two months. Thanks again.

The diode(s) are good from checking with DMM. The B on schematic says I'm supposed to have an orange with tracer wire going to cooling fan relay. Wouldn't you know it, I have an orange wire with no tracer. In other words, I have two orange wires and one grey w/tracer going to my diode plug. I haven't actually traced that phantom orange w/tr wire to cooling fan relay but I'm assuming the diode is constructed as the schematic shows with the common A in the middle of the three prong plug. (The wire color in order of appearance at the plug is Grey W/TR, orange, orange)

Hornbrod, I checked my diode. Its a three prong or two diode type plug. It appears to have proper voltage drop for both legs with DMM set on diode and proper resistance for both legs when set for ohms. There shouldn't be any continuity, correct? Thanks.

A vise, hammer and a pickle fork. I've done several this way. Clamp lower portion of shifter in vise and use the fork to separate the shift lever.

Tell us more about your ride.

Your compressor will or should have cast letters 'S' suction and 'D' for discharge on the head of the compressor. You'll be charging the suction side so that will help figure out your fittings.

Sweet! Thanks Hornbrod!

No, I didn't use ohmmeter on diode. The FSM didn't elaborate how to do that. I followed the relay diagnostic in the FSM and the last bullet (d) said if this didn't work change diode. All this started with fixing the ac and now I find myself dealing with aux fan. It'll be October by the time ac is working....... I see others have hot wired their fan but I'm trying to keep under the hood as stock as possible.

Hornbrod, so I guess the only option is a JY replacement since it's an obsolete dealer part? You can't RadioShack that can you?

Am I missing something with electric fan diodes. They're seperate from the fan correct? The orange plastic clip wired into the harness drivers side in front of the air box. All the auto parts stores don't list a part available. The jeep parts counter only finds a relay.. What gives?

I thought it should run in any direction since it's DC. It figures I get a DC fan that only turns one way.

Okay, you jumped the fan. I have to ask if you checked correct polarity when you did that. The reason I ask is because the first time I had trouble with my fan was about 1997 and I jumped the fan and got nothing, then it dawned on me I'm dealing with DC not AC. I switched the jumper polarity and it worked. CarQuest has the switch for my '88 part number 53-13892

Is the lack of a functioning aux fan truly capable of causing me such cooling issues? Basically, yes it could be causing you cooling issues. There's other factors involved such as the age of your coolant or if you're using any, performance of your water pump, to your thermostat to name a few variables. I'm in the process of trouble shooting my aux fan troubles. My problem was the switch. The FSM has a diagnostic procedure to help with that. You didn't say you tried hot wiring the fan motor to see if it still works. My fan is the age and still works like a champ. Did you check your relay? It's on the drivers side fender. Clean your relay contacts?

Correction. I meant to say I had to twist the hose from the expansion valve to the dryer, not the discharge hose.

They offered to make mine if I sent them, but I went with the '90-91 hoses they had in stock. They looked the same and I figured if they didn't work they'd take them back, provided I didn't install them. The part numbers are on pictures in my photobucket you'll find in my signature. They worked just fine except the discharge hose could have been oriented differently. I had to twist it to make it work, but not by much.

Those both will not fit the heater box in my '88. Tried those already. That snagle of tubing coming off the bottom of evaporator make them too long.

I think any compressor you get today will be r134a or r12 compatible. From what I've researched, the r134a barrier hoses are better designed for use with the smaller molecule r134a refrigerant. I guess the r12 is a fatter molecule. My '88 had its original hoses until recently. There was a leak at one of the crimp fittings. It was the suction hose, the one with the muffler. I found its replacement on ebay, I believe. The other hoses I found at Jeep Air in Florida. They will make any hoses you need, just send them your old ones for them to use as a template. I replaced my condenser and got it from Napa. Mine unraveled like an accordion when I placed a wrench on the fitting for disassembly. That was for the best. From what I've researched, the r12 condenser is a trouble spot when making the switch to r134a. No amount of flushing will clear an r12 condenser. The dryer and expansion valve I got from RockAuto....... The parts are out there. You just have to search. Quadratec had the evaporator for my '88 or I thought they did. I placed an order for a $230+ evaporator for my MJ. No problem, I thought. If it fits and works, it be worth it. The order was placed in april. They said it was 30-90 days. Okay, its a made to order item. I can relate to that since I'm in the service industry. At 90 days I call to ask for an ETA. They contact their vendor and get a response, "we won't be making that evaporator anymore." Joy! Its a learning experience........ Good luck!

I believe you should replace anything from the r12 system to avoid the 'black death' from happening. There will be some that will say you can go ahead and use the r134a and run with that for awhile. Some have been fortunate to no problems but others haven't. I'm a believer that If you didn't flush your system, you set yourself for failure. I had aamco flush my evaporator and the black cr@p that came out was amazing. (No evaporator core replaces my '88, I've looked. ) I've replaced everything but that. The r134a hoses are barrier type and differ from r12, not to mention o-rings, it's only a matter of time before your efforts are for naught. my 2cents.

:yeah that:Odds are the PO did recharge it but it didn't hold. Yours, like mine, probably has a leak. Mine was at a hose crimp fitting. Determine why it didn't hold a charge and go from there.

Would something like this help? http://teamcherokee.com/heater-hose-set-4-0-liter-oem-cherokee-comanche-1987-1990/

FYI - You can get 90degree quick connect r134a fittings at CARQUEST. I picked mine up yesterday for the valves on my compressor.

:yeah that:

Sounds like your defrost door actuator has become faulty or its not getting full vacuum. With the vehicle running, look up under the dash and watch to see if the actuator arm moves when you cycle thru the a/c-heater control on dash. The arm is a two piece design and will 'scissor' up and down. You'll need to take the lower dash valence off to see up there. Break out your mirror and a good flashlight, it will be on the drivers side of the heater box. You will have three actuators, one for the floor vent, dash vent and defrost vent doors. There's four hoses going to those three actuators. Two of the four go to the defrost vent door actuator.

As for finding a replacement evaporator question fitting in an MJ, good luck finding one that fits. The later models might have a replacement, but finding one that fits for my '88 hasn't proven successful. I tried 4x4Morris because they said they had one. Placed an order and it was a 60-90 day wait. Okay, no problem. I can wait provided it will work. After 90 days I called and they contacted their vendor about ETA. Vendor decided they're not making that anymore. I've tried several evaporators of different configurations, but still not luck. There's the serpentine style where the coils snake vertically up then down type construction, which will fit but then you have the capillary tube location you have to deal with. The tube can't go into the back of a serpentine style like on the stock unit, so you have to place it through the top or side of evaporator. Then theres the one of horizontal coil construction with the spaghetti of coils to the two fittings that come out one end. That one will fix your capillary tube placement issue but the spaghetti of coils coming out the one end make it not fit the box......... I finally decided to flush my evaporator core and put it back in the heater box. Took it to Aamco (transmission place) and they flushed it clean. I hope to reinstall my heater box this week end..... On a side note. I did get new lines from JeepAir in Florida. My photobucket has pics of the lines with the part numbers I used.