sloride

The wire at the brake switch on my MJ separated more than once causing loss of cruise. I check that first if I were you. My horn works but it has to be massaged rather vigorously a certain way. I think that's a contact issue though I've yet to address. If your hazards don't work, do your brake lights? I'm assuming they're related, but I've not had that problem on a comanche so I don't know for sure.

pb Blaster, a torch at well placed parts and a can of compressed air inverted to hit those parts you don't want hot. That's been my go to experience. Might as well replace the slider pin boots while you're at.

Mine came new with the afore mentioned shrouds. One's cracked and barely hanging on with zip ties but its there.

My '88 did the same thing at about the same mile mark as your MJ. It turned out the sensor for the electric fan went bad. Replaced it and its been good...... Oh, there was one other time that light came on. It turned out the bottle had a crack in it and was leaking radiator fluid. That crack happened before the sensor if I recall. We're talking 15yr time frame here.....

I need a hole for the capillary tube. The vertical coils are in the way. My old core the tube inserts parallel to the coils.

I checked out teamcherokee like you suggested and the a/c evaporator they have has the correct connection location. They're staggered and not in line and that's what I need BUT the coils are vertical. My old one the coils are horizontal. Why does that matter? The capillary tube is like six inches long and needs to be inserted into the back. You'll see the tube in the front of your heater box. I'd be interested to see how capillary tube works with that core. Thanks.

Hope you have better luck finding an evarporator core than I'm having. Had one on order since April from jeep4x4center. Told me 60-90day wait. Tried Rockauto but the one they supplied didn't look like my old one, nor could I get it to fit. Thought found one on ebay but order was canceled due to being out of stock......

If I had to guess, the sending unit threads are NPT (national pipe thread) which means tapered and should seal when threaded together with another NPT, in this case a hole WITHOUT using any type of sealant. (We could get into NPT and NPSC mating threads but there's not point here.) I would take the sending unit off and examine the threads. If they're pipe thread I would slather some pipe dope on the threads and screw it back together. Now if the threads are not tapered but have a thread relief groove where the threads end on the sending unit, then it might need an o-ring. You might take it off and post a pic here so others could chime in. A pic is worth the effort.

I would recommend a torch with a puddy knife. Its quicker. That's what I used in the past. A wire wheel on a right angle grinder works, but throws debris everywhere.

Have you messed with the cap and rotor at all? I had a faulty rotor on a chevy nova years ago that gave me similar issues to what you're experiencing.

:agree:.... part number 33000682

$116 is about the going rate for a gauge cluster you don't pull yourself.

That link was for non-tach face gauges, but you get the idea.

whitegauges.net is the ones I used. http://www.whitegauges.net/products/1987%252d1990-Jeep-Cherokee-Non-Tach-White-Face-Gauges.html I even got the LEDs from them. When you do a light count, don't include in your count the turn signals and brights. I've heard blinding stories about people using leds in the turn signals and brights. As for the installation? It was easy. They're applied with a soapy solution so you can position them correctly. Press out any bubbles and blow dry with a hair dryer....

I couldn't tell you what the part numbers are. I went to my local auto parts store and told the guy behind the counter what I needed. They will either ask you if you have gauges or lights. You want the oil sending and temp sensor units for gauges. When you hold them in your hand, you'll see the difference. The oil sending unit is just below the dizzy. The temp sensor is up close to the drivers firewall area. The pics are there, you just have to look below the "this person moved or deleted this image." tag. I haven't played with photobucket enough to fix that.

Any cable driven speedo driven Cherokee gauge cluster will work. My '88 was the base model as well. I got a gauge cluster from a early Cherokee and did the white face update with led lights. Glad I did that too. Keyav8r, Give this a try.

I've found it easier to drop the steering column so I can get my gorilla hand up there to disconnect the speedo cable when I take the gauge cluster out. Take out the trim panel under the column that runs door to door. Drop the column by loosening two hex nuts that hold it on. Catch the half moon trim piece that will pop off when you do that. Take the screws off the dash bezel trim. Remove that carefully. Mine likes to hang up around the radio area. Remove the screws holding the cluster to the dash. Reach up and disconnect your speedo cable. This will give you enough slack to get to the wires on the back of the cluster. That's really all there is to it. Once you get that far its pretty much obvious what you need to do.

Trying to take the heater box out of my '88 MJ and the studs that go through the Firewall are spinning with the nut. Thats not the problem, althought it is, but I'm looking for a fix to replace those studs once the box is out and ready to put back in. I have an idea of drilling out stud locations and using long screws or thread all with JB Weld to replace the trashed studs. Has anyone ran into this problem and if so, any words of advice someone might be able to pass along? Thanks

o2 sensor?

Don't forget the expansion valve, like you first mentioned. You might hook everything up and pull a vacuum using a compressor first to insure no leaks in your hoses, provided they're original. The original hose with the muffler leaked at one of the compressed fittings on mine.

I swapped my plastic hose for a braided line. Picked up a braided line at my speed shop and adapter from Advance Adapters and made the swap. Glad I did too. Somewhere on this forum is the instructions on how to do that.

My '88 has never let me down, knock on wood, electrical wise. I think you're correct in assuming it just needs some TLC. I wouldn't think twice about owning that truck, provided the floor boards are solid. I'd be curious what the original paint was before. Whats it worth? Depends on where you live and availability of MJs in your region. Here in the Midwest they can be had for relatively little money since they're somewhat common. Don't know what they go for north of the border. It just comes down to what you're willing to pay.

When I took out the interior to check floor boards, clean carpet and tear into my dash to replace the evaporator and heater core, I put in a xj e-brake lever in my '88. I just located it on the tunnel relative my center console and drilled some holes thru the tunnel, fastening it down with cap screws and nylock nuts. I measured the length of cable I would need and found the one I needed at local parts store. Don't recall where I got it but it doesn't have to be exact length. Had it been useable, I could have used the existing foot pedal cable, it was long enough to snake back to the tunnel area to mate with the e-brake lever I was using. You do need to watch for extreme lever positions, meaning the e-brake pulled up all the way and the manual shifter in reverse. Mine touch in those positions, so I have some tweaking to do to fix that because it irks me every time I pull up on the e-brake and my shifter is in reverse. Just take your time and think it through.

In 25 years of owning my MJ, it's only over heated one time on me and that was due to a cracked reservoir bottle.

Have you looked at the driver's side engine mount? I had a Chevy Nova that did the exact same thing.