sloride

Contact jeepair.com and see if they can help you.

I did the 8.25 swap with the '94zj disc brake swap. With exception of enlarging the backing plate with a sanding drum, the disc swap was easy. Had to do the longer wheel studs as well. The load sensing valve I swapped with an adjustable prop valve.

General spring is where I got mine.

Ditto on backer board with plastic trim under window.

When you did the injectors, did you change the fuel regulator?

I wouldn't think a flanging tool would be needed, but I could be wrong. This looks like a lower door seam repair. You grind away the seam this side while leaving the tailgate 'skin' alone. With the doors I've dealt with, the skin was rusty on the inside not needing replaced, but the seam as well as some adjacent metal needs replaced. You maintain the edge as best you can, leaving the skin alone as much as possible and cut back this side of the seam. I would bet once he hits it with a grinder, its not as bad as it looks.

One more trick I like to do is clamp or drive screw new patch panel over the rusted panel I'm cutting. That way i'm cutting the old piece with the new piece at the same time and the edges match exactly. This is done when you want to butt weld pieces together.

Find a replacement tailgate is a good option if that's within your means. If it was mine, I would try fixing it first, but I've got the time and I've had previous experience dealing with rust. But also keep in mind that 1 inch of visible rust you see usually gives way to more hidden interior rust..... I would use a pneumatic cutoff wheel to cut what needs cutting and use that waste for a template to replicate new patch. Prep all metal to get good welds with a grinder. Any areas that have rust inside I would Por15 the heck out of it. Be sure to use weld primer where needed. You don't need to reproduce the seam exactly but create a flange to fasten one side of tailgate to another side. I hope you're able to save the gate.

My '88 has black, black with white stripe and pink (not red). Black is ground. Black with white strip is the switch wire and the pink or red is the power fused wire.

Posting some pics would help.

Refresh your grounds?

I was able to reuse mine and have a layer under the carpet of Reflectix found at Lowe's. But you could try using something like summit racing product 721202. It looks promising.

I like the 2 door xj door version. It looks promising.

Can I switch it with an XJ/MJ one? Do you have to unbolt from transmission or can you push down and rotate and switch shifter? You're correct. No unbolting is necessary. There's a spring loaded 'bushing cap' that holds the lever in place. You just push down and, I think, rotate counterclockwise and the shifter will come off. It'll take you both thumbs to compress the spring to rotate. Use mechanic gloves because you can cut yourself doing it.

I had same problem. My housings had power but wouldn't power the bulbs everytime I rocked them on. Converted to new after market led bulbs with housings and now they work like the day I drove it home the first day.

Sorry, but that truck is sadly toast. You could fix it, but for a '86, would it be worth your time? The only reason I say that is the position of the steering box. If the front's truck is 12 o'clock position, the steering box is along with the uni-body member its bolted to is pointed at 2 o'clock? Am I seeing that correctly? If the wreck moved the steering box that far, what did it do, if anything, to the motor mount on that side? Unless you have a frame straightener in your garage, I'd part that truck... I know its not what you want to hear, but that truck will never drive the same, not to mention how safe it will be to drive..

Lighter panels are plentiful in the XJs you find in pic-n-puls. Your wire dash loom should exist with the connections labeled from the factory to install the lighter if you want.

Yep, cigar lighters were a cost adder accessory. I didn't want cigar lighter when I bought my mj so made sure they didn't charge me for one.

That DIY write up is what I used. Great help. One thing you should think about doing and that is, drop your steering column. I found I had to do that to get my dash out. And if you decide to do that, protect your steering column from scratches you may cause from getting the dash in and out... You also might consider changing the Philips head screws that hold your dash at the top to the firewall just below the windshield to hex head self tapping screws. They're easier to put in than the Philips. And you might want to use a flexible spring socket driver, because the two screws that hold the dash to the firewall closest to the steering column are hard to get to with a straight screw driver. I used a flexible drive with a socket and electrical tape to 'help' hold to drive the screws back home........Watch for your heater/ac vacuum lines. There's an inline tube splice that is notorious for coming apart when you take your dash off and reinstall it. Nothing sucks more than to get it all back together and discover that the only air you have is coming out the defrost ducts....... Take your time. Good luck.

Check your ground straps, one to fire wall?

Nope, sorry don't have part number.. my biggest problem was finding one that fit the heater box. Seems the ones out there had that gaggle of tube coming off the bottom to the top. My original had the lines coming off the core.

All the evaporators I looked at didn't have that hole. And I looked at maybe five total. (Fit issues.) I finally got fed up and settled on one evaporator that fit my box and drilled a hole thru the fins staying away from coils to get my tube in.. Now if jeep air has one that comes with the hole, by all means get it.

Install your evaporator and heater core per the norm, but leave the tube fitting caps that come with those parts out of the box, don't hook up your old lines and you should be fine.

I hate bleeding brakes as well. That's why I replace bleeder valves with speed bleeders, one way bleeder valves you can pick up at parts store like NAPA, oreilly, autozone. They come two to a pack.. With those installed, I bleed alone.

If you need help, I'm just across the river in parkville. You may use my truck sub frame as a template if you hit a snag. You're welcome to crawl under it for whatever info you're looking for.