sloride

Thanks! Sorry, no write up on the hand brake installation. I'm not entirely happy with it since it hits the shifter. Replacing it with another shorter version hand brake is on the to-do list. There's hand brakes that you have to cut the floor for the cable and hand brakes you bolt to the floor for the cable to be above the floor. This one is cable above. (I couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in the floor.) I just wrapped the existing e-brake cable around to come in from the front of the hand brake. I can take pics and post later if anyone's interested.

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the compliments. I see a lot of neat stuff you guys are doing with your trucks and I'd love to do the same and maybe experiment with bushwacker type wheel moldings or wrap around bumpers, but can't bring myself to take a pair of tin snips to the old girl's body panels....... Now a decal I could do, but a paint job would have to come first.

McMaster-carr weldnuts work for you? They go up to 5/8" diameter in some cases and they have low profile versions that go up to 3/8" diameter.

You replaced the fan relay and switch, but do you know for certain your fan kicks on? I'm asking if you've got the engine up to temp while parked to see the fan kick on..... And just because you replaced old with new, doesn't necessarily mean they're good. I check relays before I replace them with new ones. I don't normally check thermostats before installing them, but you could have a new one that's faulty. It happens. Get a pan of boiling water and a thermometer and see if yours is functioning as it should. And before I install thermostats, I like to drill an 1/8" hole at the thermostats flange 12 o'clock for any air bubbles that might form. That trick goes back to my working at the gas station days.

I'm pretty sure that hose is made to keep the totally enclosed motor cool and has nothing to do with heating the cab's interior.

To bleed the ax15 slave cylinder was just a matter of leaving the lid off the master cylinder and give the slave cylinder several pumps with the thumb prior to installing it. That's the way I did it, but I'm sure you can bolt it in and crawl out from under the truck to pump the peddle..

We need more info concerning your truck. Do you have the internal or external slave cylinder and that will depend on the type of transmission you have. Mine had the ba10 with the internal slave, swapped out to the ax15 with external slave.

You have a high probability it'll work, but that's assuming you exposed fresh wire to use for your crimps and later checked continuity. Personally, I'm not a fan of crimping. You might consider solder and heat shrink tubing the wires. I've seen too many crimps come apart, but yours look tight.

Sure enough, my brake lights work without key in ignition too.

Well, cr@p! I'm getting old and forgetting stuff then. I'd have bet money. I'll check my lights first thing when I get home.

mvusse, If memory serves, I'm pretty sure the ignition has to be on for the brakes to light. Its the same with the horn. At least its been that way for mine since I drove it off the lot new. Before I test drove an MJ for the first time back in '87, I tried honking the horn without the key in the ignition, like any other vehicle I've driven, only to have the sales person tell me to turn the ignition on first.

I use a c-clamp, socket and a vice. Sometimes a little PB Blaster and heat is needed but not always.

I rebuilt my canister using aquarium charcoal and napa filter. I cracked open the bottom using a hack saw and reseating it with jb weld.

I recently had same problem. During the reinstall of heater box, I unknowingly popped a vacuum hose 'splice' upon reassembly. It was the factory one-into-two vacuum hose splice bundled with the hoses wrapped in a loom leading up to heater/ac control on dash. To determine my problem was in the cab and not under the hood, I disconnected the vacuum hose firewall side just below the pressure bottle going to the reservoir behind front bumper and tried to pull a vacuum on hose leading into the cab. After discovering no vacuum, I broke out the cigar and blew smoke until the leak was located. That's only the second time someone has smoked in the truck since it was new.

Battery powered Sawzall (reciprocating saw) to cut bolt heads off? Some JY will let you take saw in while others will cut off it off for you. I'd ask the JY yard guys to help you get it off.

Sprinkle baby powder over the subject floor and the water will make a trail through the powder..... I know the holes you mention. Mine had plastic plugs from the factory. I never could find a replacement so I got the 'accordion' type that's used from the cab door jamb to the door itself. Its to protect wires for electric windows and electric door locks. I got mine off an XJ at the pick and pull.

I'm fighting the same problem. Passenger side floor after a rain. Doesn't have to be driving rain either. Turns out the body sealant is toast where the wheel well meets the firewall. Its the area just below the blower motor fan engine side of firewall. Rain water runs off the hood down the firewall and pool up just below the fan motor. I can test the area by pouring water down in that crevice and watch air bubbles appear. I've taken petes advice and used roofing caulk to fix that area as well as the baby powder trick to look for new water trails. Also changed the hood to cowl seal. Caulked the antenna hole where it comes in the cab. Check your door weather stripping.

Not in the very least is that normal.... Been wrecked or t-boned before?

Unless you really like to lie on your back hand wrenching on old springs at a junk yard and have nothing better to do, get new springs and u-bolts as mentioned earlier and be done with it. I'm a believer of do things once and forget about it. What's your time worth by going to a yard to get springs of unknown origin or condition to put on your truck only to have to do it in another 15,000 miles? I got my springs from General delivered to my door and couldn't be happier. The guy delivering wasn't thrilled because he had to make two round trips to his truck, one for each spring, but I digress.

Search for "Hood Conversion, Hydraulic". There's links within that topic that might be what you're looking for.

Refreshed your grounds? More importantly, have you clean the wire harness connector going to headlights? It's the one behind left headlight. It gets pretty knarly with corrosion.

Get an old complete engine on the cheap cheap and rebuild using a trusted machine shop. OR get the parts and assemble your own engine using a trusted machine shop. Its probably going to be a crap shoot either way. Experience has taught me just because an engine has been mated together for life, doesn't necessarily make it a good thing........... In the end it all comes down to knowing the parts you have and going over them with a fine tooth comb, that and of course having a good reliable machine shop.

Cruisers tips has a CPS diagnostic. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

I would guess that no one will know definitively the answer to that, unless there's some factory documentation providing load ratings that someone can produce...... I had a engineer buddy over grilling burgers yesterday, had I thought about it, I would have asked him his opinion. But he'd ask questions I couldn't answer like the ring's construction, wall thickness, material yield....... If one was to guess, you'd be safe at 300lbs axially, that is pulling straight from the corner in line with the ring. Radially that number will decrease. In other words, its safe to pull corner to corner, but pulling the same force from the tailgate would produce some type of failure, either the ring would bend or the wall would distort....

Ditto, what he said...... I'm guessing the PO isn't quite sure what he's been driving. I bet it has the 4.0 I6 but he thinks its a V6. The transfer case isn't missing but the front drive shaft...... Go look at it. It's still worth a look.