shelbyluvv

Did you use a MJ dash and harness or a XJ harness?

Nope, you pretty much nailed it.

Same setup I have on my 86 ( RE drop brackets, 4.5" coils, 1" BB pucks, stock arms and ZJ steering) and had the same exact issue. Pull the lowers back as far as you can and it should clear. I had to remove the alignment shoe in them to get the control arm to slide back the whole way. I have RC drop brackets on my 89 with 4.5" coils, stock arms and stock steering and don't have this issue.

I had that issue when my axle was pushed to far forward. What did you use to lift the front?

I was about to type that also Cruiser. It is basically the IAC of the 2.5 engine. They will bump the idle up slightly when the ac is on or when turning the steering wheel while stopped. Like Cruiser said the all had them.

It's a kicker solenoid. Used to bump the idle up for power steering or air conditioning.

A Explorer is roughly 2" narrower. An inch per side. You will need wheel spacers $50-$100 and a flange adapter, another $50-$75 and still need more gear for 35s. A 8.8 is not all it is cracked up to be. A 29 SPL 8.25 is just as strong as a 8.8, does not need wheel spacers or a flange adapter. You are already ahead by $100-$175 by using a cheap, easy to find 8.25 XJ axle. You need more gear if you want to run 35s. 4:10s are not going to keep the engine in it's torque band. You plan to use 35s. Do it once, do it right. This is my last post in this thread.

They will make a huge difference. The jump from 33s to 35s causes a lot of new, fun issues. No X/MJ ever came with 4:88s from the factory. 4:56 was a low as you could get. Those can be found in 2.5, automatic Jeeps.

STOP! You are working backwards. You are planning on going with a 8" lift and 35" tires. 4:10 gears will not be deep enough for 35s. You will need at least 4:56 to be some what happy. 4:88s are a lot better for 35s. Get a 8.8 or 29 spline 8.25 in any axle ratio and regear it. Why pay twice for the same result?

I've had throw out bearings make noises for years without a problem going into gear. It could also be a syncro going out. Check the fluid and make sure it is clean and the correct type. Been in the mud lately? I've seen mud get in the bell housing and make things chatter and whatnot.

Manuals have a flywheel, autos have a flexplate. Got it? Good! it could be your throw out bearing going away as well

Brake shoes rusted to the drums.

Oh, I'm not interested in a non factory roll bar.

Careful with heat and a steering gear. It can melt the seals and cause a ton of problems. A rental pitman arm puller, big breaker bar, cheater pipe and a BFH have always worked for me.

Most likely not. Is it a factory roll bar?

Where are you located? I travel for parts sometimes.

I just checked www.car-part.com and there are about 300 3.4 engines between Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. They are out there. He just wants one to magically show up in his driveway.

There is no way in hell you can't find a 3.4 cambird motor. They are everywhere. Will you have to travel a couple hundred miles to get one? Maybe. It is part of the hobby. I drove from Georgia to Northern Ohio to get a transmission for my Shelby Charger. Why? Because i needed one. Those cars are a hell of a lot more rare than these trucks are. If i can find parts for it then you csn find a camaro engine. Talk to the people selling the engine. Explain to them that you are x amount of hours away and ASK nicely for some money off. It'll pay for half your fuel costs. Where do you live?

I have a trush welded as well and love the sound and the price!

It came with the truck. For what I understand it was a full size box cut down to fit the MJ. It will be going away eventually. I hate tool boxes on trucks. Once I find a roll bar I will remove the tool box.

Yes they do. Metric or bubble flare as they're called.

You couldn't pay me to run a IRO LA kit. The adjustable single upper on a radious arm scares me. I did run a RK LA on a XJ and a RE LA on a TJ and they were both good kits. I like the RK kit a lot more. It flexed a little bit better. Why do you feel the need to be that high? 6" is more than enough for 35-37 inch tires.

Some how she just keeps running, The rattle really has not gotten any worse. I figured by now it would have blown up. She is not as pretty as she can be but I will get to that once the mechanicals are sorted. I also picked this up in case the current 4.0 pukes a rod. It supposedly has a lifter tap but has good oil pressure. For a total investment of $20 it can't hurt to try. My current motor has held together this long so this one should be good for a few years!

I picked up "bubble flared" lines at NAPA that were about 12" long. I cut one end off, cut my stock line in half and removed the fitting, put the fitting off my old brake line on the new line and then did a double flare to the end. I then bent them to fit on the distro block. It has been working great for 5 years now. Pics can be seen in the Onyx build somewhere.

I read a review on Dodgesweptline about using plain apple cider vinegar to remove rust and varnish from a fuel sender. I figure it should work for a fuel rail as well. All he did was buy a gallon of vinegar, filled up a plastic tub the part fit in, soaked the part for 24-48 hours and it ate most of the rust off along with the varnish. It's worth a try.