shelbyluvv

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/17651/10002/-1?parentProductId=

cRusty's MJ packs had a history of snapping the main leaf at the center bolt. I have not heard much about them lately though. I run the HC 4.5" pack and it has been awesome. They have been on my truck for over 4 years now and shows no signs of sagging.

My 86 is a base model but is highly optioned compared to these ones. It had a 2.5, AX5, 4WD, black interior, carpet, AC, chrome grill, chrome bumpers, and a am/fm casette radio.

That's awesome! Still in the same shape as when sold? No it wasn't. It had been sitting for a year with the window down. It was full of water inside and the floors rusted a little. The motor has a new knock as well. Other than the knock,and ruined carpet she was in pretty good shape. I DD her 15 miles a day and love every minute of it!

I just checked my truck. 11 3/8 from the top of the axle to the frame. I have Hellcreek 4.5" springs and a D44 axle on a SWB. Use the diagram in the link posted to measure your truck correctly.

The hinges are different but they are welded to the body. The way the bolt to the door is the same. You can bolt a 2001 door on a 1986 truck. The only mod needed it to bolt the newer style striker on.

I got bored at work and spent a bit of time digging for the 97+ swap thread. http://comancheclub.com/topic/30671-97-swap-how-to/

Check the DIY section. There is a very good write up about doing the 97+ conversion. The hardest part is figuring out which way you want to go with the fuel tank and gauge sender. I settled on a 97 TJ tank, pump and gauge cluster.

The newer t-cases have sealed output flanges. You will need the yoke of the XJ drive shaft. I have a 97 242 case in my truck and had to have a new rear shaft made to work with it. Old case new case

They are FLARES Check the classifieds under the vendor section. There is a thread from Doug at Napier with pics on the MJ. No pics on a LWB as of yet. I used my 86 as a test bunny and they will fit a long box without filler door issues if you have a LWB MJ. His flares are way stronger than cRusty's or BWs.

No you don't. You can get a air chuck that threads into the spark plug hole. Presurize the cylinder with both valves closed and remove the spring locks and springs then replace the guide seals. A old hot rodder trick is to get the cylinder at the bottom of the compression stroke. Remove the spark plug, feed some heavy string down into the plug hole. Then rotate the engine back up to TDC. The string will hold the valves in place so you can remove the keepers and springs. Then replace the guides. I have used the second option a few times and it is much cheaper and easier than the air method.

Me too! I daily drive the MJ but take it any real distance because of the oil pressure and knocking issues. The CTD sits for most of the week and is only used if I need to go off base for something. It still hurts to put $3.80 a gallon fuel in it.

It's a SWB truck. The fuel door is centered between the cab and fender flare. LWB trucks have the fuel door much closer to the flare.

The Admins and Moderators do not have that information. It is a closely guarded secret of Law Enforcement and the Vehicle Manufacturer. All I can suggest is pull the radiator and look at the front cross member. I have seen them stamped there. I have also found one stamped on the floor of my 86. Your VIN number is not a factory VIN. It has been replaced. You need to dig under and all over it looking for a VIN stamped in it somewhere. Do not use the VIN on the dash if there is another one under that non factory plate. If you swap dashes the VIN goes with the dash.

I had the same issue on my 86. I bought a Teraflex TB and it wouldn't fit my mount. Luckily I had a spare later model mount laying around. I never knew there was a difference in the mounts.

Let's see them!

Under hood harness is the same as the 91-95 XJ. The dash harness is 91-92 MJ but a 91-95 XJ dash harness can be made to work really easily. The rear harness is 91-92 MJ.

Engine and transmission matter as well if you are looking for a driveshaft.

I have built an XJ on a 2" BB with 33s. I trimmed a little bit of fender and bump stopped it keep the tires out of my inner fender structure. I ran wheels with 3.75" back spacing. I used the upper fender flare line as my guide and just cut it all off. It can be done and it works very well.

There should be a plate under the hood on the firewall with the VIN number on it. I doubt you will find a build sheet as the seats are not original to it.

That doesn't look like any factory VIN I've ever seen. I am thinking the dash was replaced and that is a replacement VIN.

I have TJ 5.5" coils in my truck and it sits almost perfectly level with my 4.5" Hell Creek rear leaf packs.

I honestly don't think that these are factory prototypes. I think they are conversions done by some company down there. There has to be a factory VIN stamped in the truck somewhere.

In my past experience with RE coils are TJ 5.5" coils are the same as 4.5" XJ coils. Basically one inch less lift height on an XJ for the TJ advertised height.

It does sit pretty level. There are pics on page 17 of my Project Onyx thread. It was higher in the rear for about six months. The previous owner hauled around some sand bags for about 4 months to break the leaves in.