shelbyluvv

I don't think those are factory. Pull the door panel and see if the braces are in the door. Those look like Ranger mirrors with a bolt on extender slide.

You sue them through small claims court for your repair costs. When I rear ended a T-Bird with my MJ it took out my header panel, headlight, bumper and fender. That's it. The damage was enough to total out my truck. I didn't claim my truck so I still have a clean and clear title. My insurance paid all his damages. Which was his car being total loss. His car was an 88. The newest MJ was built was over 23 years ago. While they are priceless gems to us, the insurance company could care less about them. They are in the business of making money. Unless you have agreed value insurance on your truck it is worth whatever they think it is. This is right from NADA. When is the last time you saw a MJ sell for $8000? Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $8,259 $2,400 $5,450 $7,925 Options: (add) TOTAL PRICE: $8,259 $2,400 $5,450 $7,925 KBB Swings between $2400-$2800 for an excellent condition truck. If you have an adjuster look at your truck it will more than likely be totaled. All it takes is a bent bumper, cracked tail light, dented bed and a bent tail pipe to total out a MJ. Sometimes less than that. I have seen them get totaled for a bunt bumper. You can't get an OEM bumper anymore. There are no oem MJ body parts sitting on the shelf to be used. That is enough right there to total the truck. When it comes to owning and driving a old truck that doesn't have an aftermarket following you are rolling the dice every time you get behind the wheel.

Dirty IAC Remove the cowl filter. They do not work.

Pretty much any rear end damage to a MJ will total it. The parts are not there to rebuild them and the NADA value is $#!& at best. Your best bet is to go after them and not involve an insurance company if you want to keep a clean title.

You can hook a bulb inline with the battery terminal and do a draw test as well.

That diff is a weaker low pinion version. I would not put a single dollar into fixing it. HP 30s are a dime a dozen. Pick up a good usable axle and throw that LP away.

Is it a stick shift? Check the fuse panel for fluid leaking on it.

http://autocomputerperformance.com/ They can disable the SKIM for you.

Ok youngins' you need to fill me in on why this is becoming a trend? It is the stupidest thing you could possibly do to a truck. On top of that it is just plain dangerous. You can't see a small car over your hood and the headlights are pointed straight to the sky. Totally ruins a truck. If a member here ever does this to their truck I will delete their post over and over and over and...

They don't have frames

As clean as your truck is a pitman arm puller and a 1/2 impact should take it right off. Rent a pitman arm puller from Autozone. It is worth every penny. Plus you get the money back when you return it.

Max (aka Dirt Bound) builds some sweet stuff. I think he is up and running again after his move from SoCal to the Mid West.

Factory 97 and newer XJ mirrors are a cheap and easy upgrade.

They don't have some reviews that are bad. They have a LOT that are bad. So bad they have changed their user name on EBay twice and have over 20 BBB complaints. Their design is no different than RE, RC or Trail Master. They all stole the design of Trail Master. The only difference is RRO actually made a set of MJ specific braces that are not really even needed on an MJ.

I'm close to Bama in Georgia.

I have first hand experience with that dirt bag. The reviews are true. There was a member here that bought the DBs and they didn't fit. Same story from RRO, you installed wrong, you're an idiot, not our problem. STAY AWAY!

Glenn Wakefield is a crook. Get Rough Country DBs and you'll be fine without the braces. I have been running them on MJs for years with no issues. RRO sells good ideas but their customer service and products are $#!&.

I have 4.5" with 265/75r16 (32") and I had to trim the front caps and rear of the fenders.

I made clear tails for my Rampage years ago. I used the cover for a fluorescent kitchen light. A little heat, hot glue and some LED bulbs can go a long way.

HVAC has sliding controls and the two tone color schemes are drab. It's just not my preference ;) Sorry to obsess on this, and not trying to post jack. But... I went out back and looked at 4 97's a 98, a 99, a 2001 and still don't see what you're talking about. The controls all look the same to me. As for the 2 tone. The ones I have with light gray interior have light gray bolt on parts on the lower of the dash. If it has tan, tan on the lower, if it has black the entire dash was black. What am I not getting here? Was it early 97's that had something odd going on? Exactly what I was going to post. I have Agate dash and door panels in my 97 converted truck.

Check the fuse?

If I had to buy one and had $10K I would take #3. I'd put the rest of the money to use building the truck into a nice DD.

Unless you know what you are looking for you will not be able to see it with the engine in the truck. The bump is halfway down the firewall just above the bell housing. See the link in my previous post for pictures. (at the bottom of page 1)

http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showthread.php?134666-Comanche-build Read and see for yourselves. The early MJs have a different firewall. Any more information needed?

What month? August 85 The bump that is missing is about 3"x2" and will be right behind the valve cover.