shelbyluvv

There are two different styles of Eliminator wheels. With or without the rivets. The 92s seemed to get the non rivet wheels. Yours are correct. I have a set in my storage unit that are exactly like those. It is your truck. Do with it that makes YOU happy. If it was mine I would call up Spencer and get the factory stripes for the sides. Then do a 4.5" lift, some 15x8 Gamblers and 31/10.50r15 tires.

Sounds like another version of Jeep Beach. I went to JB last year and it was nothing more than a JK Mall Crawler car show. I wasn't impressed and will not go to another one. Hopefully this one is better for you.

That's not quite right. 2003 and some early 2004 Rubis had machined Moabs, obviously without ridges. My September '02 build 2003 Rubi is still sporting the stock machined Moabs that the clearcoat is peeling on. The poor things have taken a beating from the trails. IMHO they are the best looking Moab wheel available, but darn near impossible to find a clean set. I have the bare/clear wheels on my truck. They still are not chrome and they have the cutouts painted silver. That was my point. They are not chrome plated.

The hole in the floor is different than the 97+ hole. Did you move it to the right location?

I have the same setup in my T-case. Works good.

Moabs only came is silver painted. The only difference in them are with the ridge or without. The 5.9 ZJ ran the Silverstar which were silver. It was also the same wheel that came on the 2001 Anniversary Edition Jeeps. Sir Sam has a great resource for wheel info. http://colorado4wheel.com/jeepwheels/

I had a TJ that had chrome steel wheels from the factory. You will be hard pressed to find any factory chromies anymore. Now everyone thinks blacking everything out is stylish. I think it shows a lack of creativity.

It is well worth it to me. I keep my vehicles for a long time and plan to have this one for a really long time.

They had a couple V6 WK Trailhawks but I figured if I was going all out I might as well get the Hemi and increased towing capacity. They are in hot water for the diesel issues right now. I think they pulled the plug on producing any more diesels for now. The warranty is pretty much a bumper to bumper, $100 deductible warranty. It is for mine and my wife's lifetime and 1,000,000 miles. It cost us an extra $2500 and was worth every penny. It does not kick in until we kill the factory warranty. http://www.jeep.com/en/service-contracts/maximum-care/new-vehicles/index.html

It was a joke of a "fix". It ruined a good Jeep for us. The new JGC has an 8 speed...

There are NO Eco Diesels for sale anywhere. They are failing emission testing like the VWs did. Chrysler silently stopped selling them. I like the sound of a V8 also, sooooo

We have owned and loved our KL Cherokee Trailhawk for over a year. It was a great little Jeep. It had one issue though. Early 2014s were plagued with a weak snap ring in the transmission. Jeep's fix was to remove the 3-2-1 down shift. Unless you came to a complete stop for two seconds the tranny would stay in 3rd gear. This was extremely dangerous when trying to pull out from a yield or slow​ merge. When we bought it, it was fine. It was a recall and they took away my 2nd gear. I was always worried that it was going to cause my wife to get hit or the trans to fail on her way to work at 0400. So I bid you farewell baby bird! We welcome your replacement, a BIG BIRD! We replaced the KL with a 2017 JGC Trailhawk. It has the 5.7 Hemi, air adjustable suspension and super sexy Rhino paint. While the payment is a LOT more I have piece of mind that my wife is safe. We got them to pay off the KL and even got a lifetime warranty. I am pleased with it. So much so I took it to Ocotillo Wells when it was only 12 hours old!

The Cyberdyne is in my Shelby. I have the Glowshift EGT in my Cummins though.

It is. It does just enough to tell me when to get out of it. Boost and A/F is a scary game.

My gauge taps into my o2 sensor wires.

I have a Cyberdyne in my car. It is basic as they come.

these grommets you're talking about are the little black ones the each hole on the cover has correct? Correct, there should also be metal sleeves in each grommet. They are there to keep pressure on the valve cover. I lost one of mine and it leaks from that area.

There are grommets, sleeves, bolts and studs for the 97+ cover. The grommets and sleeves are a must or it will leak. The bolts or studs isn't as important.

I have Zone Off-road Hydro shocks on my truck and they ride very good. I have absolutely no complaints about them.

www.retailmenot.com I use that site for everything

Something with the alternator is not right. Either wiring, fusible link or the alt itself is dead. It should and will run without an alternator.

They sit higher due to my brackets i made. But i love them. pretty sure he did...

I just had to send two of my Marines to Bridgeport to fix a P19 (fire truck). The truck was loaded onto a low boy here in the desert and shipped up north to be used for a few weeks. Needless to say the owners of the truck didn't drain the air system and the brakes are frozen solid. Please drain your air tanks regularly.

I was saying crankshaft but the relay clicking is the auto shut down. If and when it does it again do as I said. Even though you put a new Crankshaft sensor in it can be bad or a loose connection.

Refer to my previous post about the PDC relay clicking while checking the CPS.