86FUBAR

I like it ! Reminds me of my dads 1990 Scottsdale suburban with the barn doors , though with the xj I think I would have gone with the split back window / tailgate ! Best of both worlds . Oddly enough though I hate the suburbans with the window / tailgate BS .

Most all electric pumps are better pushing fuel than they are pulling it ! Not to say it won’t work at least for a little while but it needs to be mounted as close to the tank as possible . Also you need to remove the stock pump on the engine and cap the hole , on all the 2.8 Iv seen had a return line to the tank on the pump as well that you don’t need so cap that and make sure you are pulling fuel from the corect line. If you suspect the line is plugged unhook it from the pump and blow air back to the tank ( only a couple psi ) and see if it blows freely , I have a pree filter mounted inline on the rubber hose between the tank outlet and the hardline running to the front and my pump is mounted only 2 feet from the tank .

Don’t know why the actual name eludes me but that is used to help your engine heat up when cold . The metal part is vacuum operated and is connected to the rectangular flap and when it is closed the engine sucks warm air through the round hole on the bottom that is connected to a sheet metal cover that is around the exhaust manifold.

There was a member on here that used to fix those up and flip them ! Think he lived in Colorado? Also had a diesel liberty he was fixing up ! Anyhoo I learned that that’s kinda the going rate for those things and there are some shops specializing in restoring those and they can go for big money , I still think it’s way over priced but whatever.

Had a 30 + acre fire start up about 2:00 in monterey county at Laguna Seca Race Way yesterday , it's under control now but could have been much worse . The sad part is it was most likely a cigarette but someone tossed out as a race had just ended and people were leaving !

So first off did you ever get anywhere with the carb adjustments? I never herd anything else after the last post in your " carb" thread ? Also does it have the correct thermostat in it ? And correct I mean one for a 2.8 ? Everything you get for it other than some internal pieces and stuff pertaining to the serpentine belt setup etc. should be fo the 2.8. Perhaps replace the t-stat anyway as they are cheap as the temp seems way to high to me . What's the oil look like ? Could be thinking out when it gets that hot causing a lifter to collapse maby . And when is the electric fan kicking on ? Could be set to late and that can cause it to just run higher temps all together. ( had that happen to me before) I noticed in some other pics that the ported vacuum switch on the manifold had been bypassed, the carb might need the vacuum inputs to better adjust itself.

Yes the factory 2.8 fuel pump had a return line ! No you don't need it ! If the pump you installed is supplying 5-8 psi then you're good . Yes you could hook it up and use it if you had a pump that put out to much psi and you had a regulator that utilizes a return line and yes it keeps the fuel cooler and stuff but it's not needed. I did exactly what I just told you to do to my truck and it works just fine and even still passes California emissions. If you actually read the link I posted it tells you exactly how to adjust the carb and were the idle mixture screw is located etc.. Also I suggest that you ditch the stock fuel filter located in the back of the carb and install a inline filter , easier to service , inspect and you don't have to worry about messing up the threads ever.

Your carb is an 2SE (the E2SE version is electricly controlled) there is a IIRC a mixture screw that requires a special tool located under the rectangular mesh screen on top of the carb that could be adjusted ! I remember doing it to mine when I swaped to a 3.4 , I'll see if I can dig up the info for ya and as for the tool I borrowed it from a friend who owned a shop. To me it sounds like it just needs to be adjusted ! That's a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new carb , I know these ain't the best carbs but they do work . Edit: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Jeep-Wagoneer-Commando-Cherokee-1984-1998/CARBURETED-FUEL-SYSTEM/Rochester-2SE-E2SE-Carburetor/_/P-0900c152800a9cdb found this !!! This is actually got an amazing amount of helpful info in it ! Near the bottom it talks about an external idle mixture screw that I totally forgot about. I would start here.

Never had a 2.5 but I regularly hauled 2 dirt bikes , gear , fuel etc.. with my 86 5 speed 2.8l on 31s with 3.55 gears and it did it fine ! It was no speed demon but it did it ! And everyone says that the 2.5 is more powerful than the 2.8 so.... ya . I did get a chance to drive a 84 cheroke 2.8 auto and it seemed a lot worse than my truck ever was with the stick , not sure what the gearing was but the stick would be the way to go as the auto really seemed to sap a lot of power .

I used to have custom ring tones etc.. for all my contacts, but I use my phone for work so I get a lot of calls form people that I'm dealing with on a daily and it's not uncommon for me to get calls from all over the U.S. so if I did the whole "I don't answer unless I know them and if not they can leave a message" thing then I wouldn't get anything done ! If you can do that then great but I simply can't . Besides if I don't know you I'll just hang up !! I don't care :)

I got hit with this scam today wile at work on my cell and thanks to this thread I said nothing and hung up immediately !!! The call came through exactly as described and I immediately recognized it as the scam thanks to the heads up from you guys ! Thanks :)

I installed a "spitter valve" on my compressor! It's designed to automatically drain the water out on its own and are used on air brake systems , they were used on a lot of the older buses that we used to have at work and seemed to work ok . It is a bendix DV-2 valve http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploads/2/1/9/0/2190100/dv-2_drain_valve_installation.pdf Here is a link to what and how it works.

I was going to do this to my truck a few years ago but chickened out as the paint was still really nice . Then started thinking about it again last week as I was walking around my lower field seeing at how ratty the old girl was starting to look ! Part of why I didn't do mine as I couldn't figure out which style of camp I wanted to do . Your looks great !! Came out real well !

Edelbrock had a set of their TES (tubular exhaust system) smog legal headers for sale for a wile though last time I checked I couldn't find them or any other of their other headers for sale . You should be able to find something listed for a s10 that should be able to make fit but won't be smog legal if that even matters.

Hum..... Well at least the Dana 44 pinion is 1" longer than the D35 so when you swap axles you will be better off .... That is as long as the length don't change again!

with an auto they probably want flexplate ;)......glade someone is paying attention !

I swaped in a 3.4 behind my ax5 , it's mostly a direct bolt in swap . The 3.4 will bolt up to the 904 however the 3.4 is internally balanced and the 2.8 is externaly balanced so you will need to source the proper flywheel to match the 3.4 which shouldn't be that hard.

That's a necessity, how else does one get crushed ice for their evening cocktails? A hammer? How barbaric!!! :) This is how I lost my first beer fridge !! I was making a coctail and needs some ice so I went out and started chipping at the ice with my pocket knife like usualy and hit a thin spot and poof ! There went the best beer fridge I ever owned.

My first lift on the manch was 4" on 31-11.5-15 thornbirds with IIRC 3.5" back spacing . They fit great and the wider tire really off set any funny looks that a skinny tire might have given it . They did rub at full stuff on the lower back part of the fender but it was probably an adjustment issue on my part as I had the teraflex adjustable control arms and should have added an 1" or so but o well.

NICE! do you have any finished pics with the support kickouts? I still haven't gotten around to finshing the rails with the supports done as I haven't had the time though each time I take it out (which hasnt been as much as I'd like) I make it a point to hit , drag , pivot , and over all abuse the sliders just to see what they can handle and I'm quiet impressed ! No damage other than the scratches ! I'm not sure I dig the C-Chanel , seems that the point load of the C-Chanel is spread along the 3/16 edge and welded to some sheet metal ? And the bed section is separate from the cab with what looks like some angle iron or something to suport it. Yes I know mine still has no support to the slider beyond the cab but I bet a continuous piece of 2x6 is stronger than that ? Cutting out the rocker wouldn't be much more work and possibly could have saved some rust free rockers .

Dang ! That thing is clean ! I'm really digging the decals on the body :) excellent find Sr. That's going to be a fun project , make sure to get a build thread going .

This is were you telling us how you fixed it ! ........ helps us and anyone reading this post possibly resolve the same or a similar issue later on and keeps this post from turning into another statistic. I.E. Another 1 of a 1000 posts stating an issue but no fix for said issue .

Why not try and use the rope method to help push the stuck valve closed ? If it's not bent and done carefully it should work , also if possible try and squirt some oil on the valve through the spark plug hole .

Not the same thing at all, but it might work. This stuff (^^^) isn't for the rebound clips -- they run across the leaf pack. This stuff is for running the full length of the proings, between the leaves. It's much thinner than the rebound clip pads. Ya I saw that but figured it might work ! Heck even if you had to replace it every few months you got 20 FT ! It's cheap enuf to try it.