BLHTAZ

:clapping: I have that linked on my Facebook page. Someone emailed it to me a couple weeks ago. I was shocked that it's a group of 12 year olds...

This was sent to me by friends of ours that used to live next door to us. The girl is the daughter of a frined of theirs in North Carolina. Please just keep an eye out for them. Sorry the pic is a little big, but I wanted to be sure that you could see thier faces well enough.

You need to be sure that you get a cluster from the same era and engine size or it will not be a simple plug & play situation. If you get one from a 4.0L there will be calibrations that have to be done for it to work properly.

:agree: It is most likely the blower resistor as Pete said. The funny thing is that usually when the resistor goes bad, it works only on high speed...not on sometimes and off sometimes all together.

:agree: Exactly...

:rotf: That's great!! I like the DAMMIT tool... :thumbsup: . I have had quite a few of those in my time :oops:

I have been through that twice now. They don't make you run, but it can be a brisk walk on the tread mill. They put a port in your arm, get you going on the tread mill to get your heart rate up then inject the nuclear stuff while you are walking to monitor what your heart is doing and how everyting is flowing with some x-rays. It is typically not a big deal, but being the weakened condition you are in right now, it will probably take a little more out of you.

You are one of few that have anything good to say about Rusty's. I know several folks that have dealt with them and all I have heard is bad including many of the people on here. Poor quality, poor customer service etc, etc...

It's fixed... :thumbsup:

Why do people do such stupid stuff... :shake: . Torsion bars are NOT for lifting a truck. They are to assist the suspension with ride quality and when you crank them up you get a very rough ride, screw up the alignment, and over a short period of time it will destroy the bars and sag back down. Tell him to keep the old shocks as they will be the right length again soon ;)

Here is Jeff's build thread... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11205&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

It's in the DIY forum ;) here... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12260

Yep...there are actully quite a few wires in your dash for things that "could" be there, but aren't :yes:

I am sure you could fabricate a way to keep the helper, but why would you want too :dunno: ? Do you haul extrememly heavy loads? Those helpers do absolutely nothing unless you have a lot of weight in the truck...they do not help anything if the truck is empty or only has a light load. It would take a load of at least 600 - 800 pounds (probably more) to even cause those helpers to be active. ;)

I would think the switch or a shorted relay are the most likely culprits, but I have never seen this issue before. :hmm:

If you want to lift it, you really need to take those helper springs off. If you are not hauling heavy loads, they are not helping anything anyway. There is not really many ways to lift the rear of these trucks just 1-2" other than making a bastard spring pack of your own or adding a small add-a-leaf to your pack. I think the smallest lift spring made for them is 3". I think if you find another set of springs, take the main leaf out, cut the eyes off and add it to your pack just under your main you will get what you want.

:rotf: Yea...seems that all the older vehicles had them, but in todays world, the newer cars do not come with them and they are an "option" that you can purchase.

...or just roll the truck a little bit so the fittings are exposed and easy to get to. I have never had a problem getting to them when they are rotated to the proper position.

I had the same problem...I mean exactly the same...and did all the things you are doing to no avail. I finally found that someone (previous to me) had changed the PS pump and when they installed the new one they pressed the pulley on the pump shaft about 1/8" too far. I got a puller and pulled the pulley out that little bit and it is now quiet as a mouse. :yes:

Here is the how to on picture posting... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =6&t=11077

You can always shim the CAD over to keep it in the locked position all the time, do away with the useless vacuum stuff and then install an Aussie locker (or something similar) in the axle if you want a locker.

Looks like you are one of the nearly extinct breed that still believe in boots on your shocks ;) .Shock boots cause more damage than they do good so everyone I know has stopped using them and all the shops that I am associated with encourage people to stay away from them. :hijack: Sorry...but, I just haven't seen boots on shocks in a long time and it surprised me to see them on a Jeep from up North.

The Renix ECU's virtually never fail...and if they do, it's typically a problem in the injector field with the #4 injector. 90% + of the time there is a no spark issue, it is the CPS. Just because it was replaced doesn't meant that it's not still the cause. I have seen them be bad right out of the box before, but because it was replaced, that would make it a little less suspect than something to do with the coil itself, but not out of the question for the cause.

Unfortunately...that is what they run. I checked many places when I needed one and they were all withing a few dollars of that price.

Cherman Chief was one of the two I picked... :thumbsup: