BLHTAZ

lol Check this one out Brent... :hijack: WOW...that was just wrong... :eek: . If he had been about 1 second slower getting there, they would have called that an awesome tackle and there would have been no penatly...at least in the NFL... :yes:

Yea...it was a sequence of turning the key on/off and pushing buttons at a certain time.

That's he safest way to do it IMO too. Just unbolt it from the rear pinion and strap it up safely leaving the t-case end connected.

I couldn't read that second part of that - so I fixed it for ya :thumbsup: My mouse has a magnifying feature on it when you press a button on the side it makes a magnifying glass looking thing on the screen so I could see it ;)

:jump: ahhhh...c'mon...you were going Cards anyway being the die hard NFC guy you are :rotf:

You need to add a "NSCW" to the title -- Not Safe for CW -- Sorry CW, not making fun, but you know this type of stuff is not part of your life any more :cheers: As good as it looks, it can't be part of mine either unfortunately... :drool: :fs1: :yes:

You got it... :thumbsup:

He ya go Don... http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=At69PJ3ymIg That will get the Mahna Mahna out of your head :teehee: (although it may stick you with something else thanks to Jeff again) :popcorn:

Please be sure that you are including all the needed information with your orders. So far...every order I have has a problem... No sizes listed...shipping addresses incomplete...not specific on colors etc, etc... Check your emails as I have replied to all and have requested the information needed to fix the problems, but have heard back from noone so far.

That is correct :thumbsup:

That is freakin' HILARIOUS... :jump: :rotf: Palah-ma-lou ... do dooo da do do Crank this one up...

Original FOB's must be programmed via the DRB, but subsequent units can be added without a DRB. The process is in the owners manual for the DIY process on FOB programming. I have done it on my 2002 Dodge Ram so I know it works. :thumbsup:

Yep...we sent some to two different members in Norway last time around :yes:

The Cardinals are hot, but the Steelers have the poise and experience so I think they will take it. Who knows though...it has been a surprise win by the wildcard teams for the last three years in a row now.

The process for ordering shirts & hats can be found here... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=14412 Yes, we will ship internationally...the only catch is that you must be able to pay with PayPal. We do not accpet any other form of payment for international orders. Just be sure to include all the needed information with your order as requested in that thread.

Sorry to hear this. She / they will be in our prayers.

Yea...that PlastX is great stuff. It also does wonders on the faded plastic headlights ;) Great job on those tails :cheers:

It has been my experience that 3.73 is the best gear for 31's for everyday use, MPG and occasional wheelin'. If it is going to be primarily off road, then the 4.10's would probably be better. There will be a very noticeable difference from 3.07 to 3.73. It is definitely NOT RECOMMENDED to try to install used gears though. They will be noisy and prone to early failure because once they have been broken in on one vehicle, there is absolutley no way to put them in another and have the wear pattern match up again. I have taken my YJ front axle apart twice now for different issues with the locker and when I did, I threw the gears away each time and got new ones with full new install kits. Extreme...probably, but I don't take chances like that ;) .

There is a downloadable FSM posted on the site here... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =9&t=12517 There are good aftermarket clutches out there, but if the slave cylinder is internal you should really stay with OE on that part.

Yea, it depends on what springs you are using in the rear. As already stated, the SOA can give anything from 5" to over 6" in the rear so it's typical to need 6.5" springs to keep it level as it should be. A stock truck may look OK with the back higher than the front, but a lifted truck just looks silly that way IMO.

Didn't think about zippered for some reason, but yes, we can do those. They are a bit more expensive though andthey are not offered on anything even close to a Tan color. We can do Black or Gray and they would run $27.00 I'll add that in to the original post ASAP...thanks... :cheers:

Tom Woods make shafts that can take care of those angles easily...shouldn't be an issue :thumbsup:

Just because there is no paint doesn't mean it safe...someone may have just forgot to do it. It is always recommended that you use new head bolts to be sure of a good hold. Definitely not a job you want to do twice because of trying to save $30 - $40 ;) .

OK...I understand the lack of vacuum under acceleration / deceleration, but at 2000 - 2500 RPM, according to Don's FAM info, it would be stronger than at idler as I suspected. The difference is not significant enough to really have the effect I was thinking anyway so it really is a mute point ;) . I still believe it's the pump. Thanks for the education though :clapping:

OH GREAT...thanks Jeff...now I'm going to be going Mahna Mahna in my sleep... :doh: Thanks for the memories... :clapping: