BLHTAZ

Hey Giffer...welcome to the Club :cheers: You should start a thread in the Projects forum and keep us updated on your progress. :thumbsup:

:rotf: No problem...I don't do it for recognition. ;) I had the same issues with mine...it is very difficult to get the probes in there and get a reading. I found that it was easier to ground the negative lead to a remote source instead of trying to get both of them pushed in to the connector. I touched the negative lead of the tester to a good ground on the block and then only had to worry about getting the positive lead in to the terminal A connector and it was much easier. I had it adjusted and running good in just a couple minutes that way. I am not an electrical guru by any stretch of the imagination and someone may refute this idea for some reason, but after I adjusted it that way and tightened everything down, I went back and checked it with the probes in the recommended terminal locations and the readings were perfect there too :thumbsup:

I was thinking TPS because of the need to step on the accelrator pedal to start. CLICK HERE for the testing & adjustment procedures

Will the DANA44 work in my MJ? -- Yes Use the same drive shaft? -- You may have to have the shaft shortened just a bit What might the gear ration be in the 44 -- No way to know that for sure. Might be able to make and educated guess if we knew exactly what it came out of...engine, tranny, year etc... The D44 was used in many years, just not real often in the MJ's. It's a good find regardless :thumbsup:

The 2.5L (unlike the 4.0L) has a tensioner on the timing chain that will go bad. It is usually a sudden thing too and will cause the exact problem you are having. Try getting your engine at TDC and then look to see where the rotor is pointing or find the timing specs and check it out. The other items you mention are possibilites too, but it really sounds like a timing/ignition issue to me since it is sensitive to load/acceleration.

They make hub conversions for the D30...it's an expensive kit at about $1200 - $1300... 4.10's were what was used in the 4cyl - 5spd set-ups...I am not sure what may be in the 4cyl - auto. Did you happen to get a VIN# for me to check it for you?

If you SOA the rear, even with flat springs, you are going to get around 5" of lift. If you can deal with a bit of a harsh ride, do the AAL in the rear leaving it SUA and get a decent 3" kit for the front. I went with this kit on mine and love it... CLICK HERE I also added the adjustable upper control arms and the adjustable track bar :thumbsup:

to... >>CLICK HERE TO ORDER COMANCHE CLUB SHIRTS & HATS NOW!!<< Ordering closes on Sunday, February 15th

OME springs are great, but they just don't make them in 3-4" lifts. I have never really heard much about TeraFlex springs. I run their cross over steering set-up on our YJ though and it has been great.

I thought about that back when we made the original 40 - 50 of them, but the design had already been done and I didn't feel like changing it ;)

8) Cool...umm, I mean warm...well...you get it :thumbsup: Nice find. I love that section at Sams. I always make sure to pass by there when I go in too.

Anybody's stuff can break :thumbsup: . I am a die hard RE fan myself, but I have seen their stuff break just like anyone else...although I have never seen a spring do that :eek: ...it's usually the track bars. Stay away from Rusty's! :no: OME doesn't make anything that tall...I believe 2.5" is the biggest. Rough Country seems to be OK stuff, but I have no real experience there. Motion Offroad has some nice stuff as well so be sure to look at them. If you are going with that much lift you will want to get a kit, not just springs. You will need an adjustable track bar and at least lower control arms, but I would do both upper & lower personally as the stock arms are very weak and don't hold up to lifts well. You will also need the extended sway bar links and possibly brake hoses depending on what you intend to do with the truck.

I will leave the electrical stuff to the others with more knowledge, but with the speedo you can check the cable itself to be sure that it is not the probem by disconnecting both ends and then spin the cable at one end while watching the other to see if it moves. Obviously, if it doesn't then the cable is broken, but if it does, then either the cable is not being inserted in the little holes propoerly at the t-case or speedo...or the speedo itself has an internal failure which would be very rare. The most common thing I have seen is that the end attached to the t-case / tranny is screwed on properly, but someone didn't make sure that the internal cable actually went in the little hole in the center of the gear shaft ;) . I have done this myself more than once :oops:

It's always best to keep things as they are meant to be even though you can make changes in some cases without issue :thumbsup:

What are you replacing them with? Just new stock style springs or lift? If lift...how much? The actual replacing of the springs is not terribly difficult if you have the needed tools & equipment but what exactly you are doing is really need to know to give proper guidance. :cheers:

Just wanted to say welcome to the Club :cheers: . There are a couple of the guys around here that have done this and will have a lot of good info for you on it. I know the basics, but have never actually done the job so we'll wait for the ones with the actual experience here. ;)

:oops: Thanks Rich. I'll have it together over the weekend and post a picture of the real thing. I appreciate the kudos, but I also want everyone to know that Rich had contacted me about making one of these for him a while back when I had them for another project and I have had one saved for him for some time now. As cool as it is and I wish I could make them for everyone, but it is not something I am going to continue. ;) Sorry... Rich is the lucky last one... :thumbsup:

Rick...I can't say that I know how you feel, but I can extend my deepest sympathy to you and you family and assure you that me and my family here in Florida and all the way to my parents, brother, sister and grandparents in PA know about this and are praying for a complete and speedy recovery. Your Jeep family is here for you...just let us know what we can do :thumbsup:

If I remember right...it is a real build, but I have had the picture in my computer for almost 6 years now and don't remember who I got it from now.

Here are the two best versions I could come up with. Let me know if you like either... Image Not Found Image Not Found

You have a lot more patience than I do. I could never have rewired a fuse box like that. Good job as always :thumbsup: This picture just begged to be B & W to me for some reason...and I had to eliminate the putty spots ;)

I prefer a very slight toe in...1/4" max, but as long as all of your components are in good shape & tight you should be OK.

I am sure that it can work fine that way, but the article linked to in the above post was done because the guy was basically forced to do it because he was sold an HO engine by accident and he didn't want to return it so he made it work. I see no advantage to doing all that work as it doesn't appear to be any type of worth while upgrade...just a bunch of work ;) .

Since you don't have a location in your profile, I don't know if you live in an area that you are subject to emissions testing, but if not...then you can do away with it. There are kits made with a cover plate for the manifold, but I don't know off hand where to get them. I'm sure just a little Google searching will render you some answers on that :thumbsup:

OK...so your not trying to run the "HO System", just the injection. I can see that working, but I don't see it being worth the effort and aggravation :shake: . There is no way that it produces enough of a difference in any category to be worth what you will go through what the guy did in your article to get it working or fix what ever may fail in the future :dunno: I made a nice difference in my Renix by simply putting some good injectors in it from Precision and got a 14% MPG increase, better acceleration, easier start, smoother idle etc, etc... and it only cost me about $100 and an hour of my time ;) :thumbsup: Be sure to post up the progress of this idea in the Project forum if you do go forward with it :cheers: