Doc.

Yep. The Challenger wheels photo'd will be a direct fit for '03 and newer. My '02 and earlier require a 1.25" - 1.5" spacer. Just tried the Challenger wheels on the 04 Merc. They hit the front calipers to the point you can't seat the rim on the rotor.

Score!

Reminder, keep shinny side up.

Yah it will, I didn't know he was going with a waggy front axle.

Well now I did it, got an 04 Mercury Marquis unlimited edition at auction for cheap. It was a donation vehicle, no damage, no rust, nice inside too. Didn't really know what I bought until I got it home and started checking it out. It sure is loaded up with options. Heated leather, radio etc. controls on steering wheel, factory CD changer in the truck, and rear air bag suspension.

"Didn't pull those in PA, when I was at a PnP. Only one I saw at 4 PnPs. 2 in PA, 2 in IN" Where does one get the decoder ring to figure out what all that means? Why swap in a 44 out of an Isuzu? Isn't that a 6 bolt wheel pattern?

Like the MJ, good choice on rims. Please explain the sticker.

Just because you broke a part once in an extreme situation doesn't necessarily mean you have to upgrade. How many times have you broken the axle shaft? If you had an unbreakable axle where is the next weak point? T-case? I'd rather keep an axle shaft as a weak point, carry an extra, and go wheeling. In my rig the weak points are the front axle u joints. Easy to swap, cheap to have extras with, I'm good with that. Mind you the real issue is they wear out prematurely, if I don't catch that in time they break doing hard/stupid stuff. So, it's not like they fail that often in the first place. Looks like a good time, wish my wife would find a job again so I could afford to at least think about making some trips like this.

4.56 gears on 33's? I have 4.56 on 35's and like it (off road truck). Wheeled with some 33's once because I didn't have time to fix a couple leaking 35's and didn't like the way it wheeled on 33's with 4.56. I've run many a Cherokee on 33's (on and off road) with just 3.55's and had no "problem".

If you said tire size or gear ratio I missed it. If the trans is down shifting more than you like my first guess is axles need to be re geared.? I assume you don't pull with it overdrive. Basically no truck should pull a loaded trailer in overdrive. Maybe towing a car on a trailer isn't the best idea, but then again if the trailer is light, and the car is light, and you got it balanced right, maybe it's just fine. You are the judge there. If you buy a "real truck" don't buy a ford, buy a Chevy, why you would need a 250 or 350 to haul a little Porsche is beyond me.

299 would be great, AND frustrating. To be that close and NO, denied. I haven't been bowling for years, can't remember what I ever got for scores. I just remember first couple throws not so good, then I could do some strikes and spares, then the last couple balls my wrist would usually give out and boom, crappy score.

If memory serves me right, the last pump I replaced on a stock short bed truck I did not drop the tank.

All I can say is that's interesting. I've replaced several 242's that went bad for guys and never a 231. We've always put a 231 in because of availability and their research says the 231 is stronger. Guess I've been misinformed. Sorry.

"Any NP242 transfer case experts out there?" I'm no expert, but I know they're not very good. Most people take them out when they go bad a put in a 231.

For the outside, sure pressure wash it. For the inside I don't know why you would want to use water. Isn't that something we try to avoid getting in mechanical parts?

That is what I was guessing, but now I know for sure. Thanks. Safe to assume a 4:1 would ride stiff? I also assume it would not flex well either?

What are you guys referring to on the 3+1 and 3:2 etc.?

In the photo from the link in the first post, it looks like bed is separate. And, looks like rear opening rear doors. This looks more factory legit than other truck photos I've seen.

Is this for the street or an off road rig? I would never want a carb in an off road rig.

I've been thinking about doing an extended cab. Pondering between 2 door XJ doors or making the back of the cab longer. I started a post wondering if anyone had photos of either so I could see how each way looked. It kind of went off topic with people posting and discussing 4 door trucks instead. Hard to think someone hasn't done what I'm thinking about, but I don't find relevant photos when I Google.

Yep, looks like it they work great.

I wasn't curious about the floor, I know what ever he did would not relate to what I am thinking about building anyway. I was just wondering how he redid back doors and back of cab cause in the photos it looks funky. If it looks "bad" in a photo I'd have concern how it looked up close. If the end result doesn't look good, what's the quality of the job under what you do see? How was that back door spliced together, and how was it prepped prior to filler and primer?

To clear 40's on a Comanche!? Most guys go 33 or 35's I don't know how you'll get 40's under a Comanche, other than a heck of a lot of lift, at that point pounding over the pinch weld shouldn't even matter.

Glad someone that knows something chimed in, sounds like you should be able to get it taken care of. As to value. I'd say it isn't possible to make an accurate assessment from photos. That said, I don't really like what I see. I don't like how the cab to rear door looks. I'm really curious as to how he did the cut and paste. As to my personal taste, I don't like the wheels/tires, bumper, or roof rack either. So those would all deduct from value if I was looking to buy it.

Interesting, I have to say.