Doc.

I should note that you don't want the single overhead cam engine that was in earlier models. Head problems, stay away! As far as the dual overhead cam, I thought they were not interference engines. I don't know. For what it's worth, I have a customer who bought a focus new back in 2002, it was used it as a delivery vehicle for his business and everybody beat the crap out of it. He never changed the timing belt and the belt went just shy of 300,000 miles. He was tempted to have a new belt put on and keep running it since it was not using any oil and still had been running/driving great. But the body was rusty enough by this point he chose to give up on it and just buy another focus instead (a low mileage 2006 from me).

Ford Focus. Mileage, reliability, easy to work on, parts are cheap and easy to find. Lots of reasons. I'm on the tall side, wife is on the short side. We both fit comfortably by adjusting the seat and tilt/telescoping wheel. I still like driving them after all these years. Every year has a pro and a con. Best bang for buck is 05 to 07 in my opinion. 05 they did away with timing belt and went with chain (no longer a maintenance item). You want one that's more fun to drive get an SVT focus (factory hot rod). I've had a couple of them, they are fun to drive and still get decent mileage. Or find one that has the 2.3 instead of the 2.0. they are "rare" but do have more get up and go. Probably hurts fuel mileage, but I really don't know. I like a lot of things about the 08 to 2011 Focus but lots of electronics compared to previous years. Also, body parts are still a lot more expensive than previous generations if you need to do any body work... 2012 Ford ruined the Focus though. Did away with every reason to own one.

Anyone?

So it may be a dumb question. When you turn the key on what lights should light up before hitting the starter? I assume at least the oil light and temp light should light up as kind of a system check. Shouldn't they? Am I thinking wrong? In my case non come on. I did pull and test the bulbs that are in the cluster. The bulbs work fine. I assume I have an issue, any thoughts? This is on an 87 MJ, 4.0, auto, 4x4, with idiot lights.

Part 2 on the deer crossing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JWuFGMq3ZA Question. Why is it when a dumb animal crosses the road without warning and you hit it, it's not your fault? But if an intelligent human crosses in front of you without warning and you hit it, you face criminal charges? You'd think that the intelligent human would know enough to not walk out in front of you, and it would be their fault. Just sayen. I figured that would be totaled. You came out good on the MJ. Nice check, got to keep the truck, they didn't stamp your title. Nice. You could even take this opportunity to convert to the 97+ front if you were so inclined.

Just curious. You said he made a couple payments. How much did you get out of him before this happened? Taking him to court sounds like a waste of time tome. Doesn't sound like you have good proof of your deal with him and like stated probably would never see a dime if you win anyway. Personal choice there, if it feels right do it. Yes, "easy" for tow companies to get a title for anything after sitting for X amount of time and doing the paperwork. I would certainly try and deal with the tow company though. Explain the situation, they can look up who the driver was when it got towed verses the fact you are legal owner. They won't just give it back for free, but if they are decent they will cut a guy a break. Reality is, they will do the math on how much will they get for it for scrap or resale, verses how much you're willing to pay.

Interesting. With no knowledge of anything about me or my vehicle, you guys assume I have the wrong parts in there and that I did something wrong along the way. Why is this? Why not accuse me of putting vacuum line on instead of fuel line while you're at it? The hose clamp (that came loose) and fuel line that was failing were there from the factory. Thanks guys, your comments really make a guy feel good for sharing.

I've gotten 2 trophies at car shows, those were nice comments. When I took it to car shows I usually parked one wheel up on a stump that I brought with. Amazing how many people would ask how I got that tire up there. It wasn't even that big of a log, but for some reason they just didn't think I could drive up on it like that. I have also had people comment on the work I did to my Cherokee. No, it's a Comanche......

So, I had an issue with my 87 MJ 4.0 . It would start and run fine, showed good fuel pressure, but once it got warmed up it had no power, couldn't go much above an idle without stumbling badly. The longer it ran the worse it got (to the point of dying and would not restart). The next morning it fired right up again and then once warmed up same story. I kept thinking about how it was acting up and wondered if it could be the rubber line from the pump to the steel line in the tank. I was thinking it had a cracked line and the longer it ran (getting warm and stressed from fuel running through it) the farther the crack would open up. Today I tore it down and pulled it out to find a hose that was soft and swelled up, PLUS a hose clamp had came loose. So, new hose and nice tight clamps I hope to have my problems behind me. Well at least that problem. I decided to do a few, while I'm there redo's before putting tank etc. back together, so it will be a few days till I can go try it out and make sure that was the cure. But, I'm feeling good about what I found for what my issue was. Anyone else ever had such an odd problem?

Tried to listen to the video, couldn't understand one single word. To much background noise, etc.

Always liked those wheels never had a set to call my own though.

Probably just a bad photo, but is there any brake fluid in that reservoir? So light in color it looks empty.

If there is no reason for the stabilizer other than to band aid a problem, why did the factory put it on there?

Seen the VW video before. Like it, but couldn't help but wonder how that little engine could do all that work. Dig the street rod, no problem with pulling power there I'd guess.

So we just need to beat the crap out of a newer one then! :thumbsup: :yes:

Thant's fine, I'll wait and claim post 23,456 B) Unless someone beats me to it.

I don't get it? Looks like he recently changed his avatar, there was a photo of his truck with a person standing on the roof.

I looked at them and thought, why would you want to eliminate your U bolts, then I looked at the installed photo. Interesting, very interesting. One less thing to hang on the rocks.

What was the show called? What was it about? Was it any good?

So you did buy it. I had been wondering if you did the deal. If it sells, tell the next owner to post up so we can find out what becomes of it.

Danged if I know how to explain this, but the order in witch you tighten up bolts play a factor when replacing sheet metal. Pushing/pulling on parts as you tighten them is usually needed too.

Seeing is believing, you actually made that happen!

Personally I don't like the new Cherokee. I think they should have named it something else out of respect for what they (and all Jeeps) used to be. Here is another reason to not like the new Cherokee, or any of the computers on wheels all manufactures are selling us now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK0SrxBC1xs As far as specs for wheeling a new one, I didn't read up, but I'd love to take an old XJ and wheel it against a new one. I'd bet the old one would go a lot farther and leave a lot less parts on the trial. At any rate there is no other vehicle that can be can lifted, modified, and capably wheeled, on a light budget, like an old XJ.

That was a pretty nifty demonstration.

Sorry had to.