Doc.

My computer skills aren't that good but I think these photo chops are good enough to get an idea of how my thoughts could look. 1st photo, unmodified cab. 2nd cab extended about 4 inches, 3rd photo 2door XJ doors. Image Not Found

What fenders do you use to match up with that header panel?

Please don't

I guess I'm odd. I like lots of stuff. Lowered, lifted, modified, stock. To me it depends on the vehicle and what was done, or not done. I remember getting sick to my stomach watching Boyd Codington on TV buy a running, driving, nice model T from an older gentleman. Then they proceeded to cut it up and throw away 95% of it to build a custom street rod. While I like street rods it was a sin to cut up a nice original vehicle like that when there are lots of crap or aftermarket options to build off of. This, I hope to never understand. :ack:

I have an overhead chain hoist thing in the shop that I made years ago. So basically I supported the engine/ trans and hoisted the body off of them. I don't know how much an XJ weighs without motor/trans but I'm sure wouldn't want to be one of the people asked to help lift it. I know the back of my bobcat gets pretty light when I've moved a shell around though.

Add on's happen on darn near all repairs. Standard operation procedure. Sometimes an adjuster will wine about stuff, but that is just part of their job.

Where did you get those darkened lights from? And what is the year/ etc. for that style grille?

But does it have more power than a 2.8? Wait, what am I thinking, pretty much everything does.

I'm still waiting for the next Buckaroo Bonsai movie. :(

When dropping S-10's a couple inches I used to get stuff at Summit. been a while though, maybe they don't even have that stuff anymore.

I have dropped the assembly out the bottom before, I thought it worked pretty good. But, I have things set up differently in my shop than others do, so basically what ever you think will work best for you will probably be the way to go.

If I understand the question correctly, and if you are going to lift it at the same time. Remove front suspension. Then drop motor, trans, t case as an assembly out the bottom. Is that what you're thinking about? Should work. You'll have to research the firewall and radiator support issue. Early MJ's had a different firewall and radiator support that makes such a swap a lot more work. As for the gears, you'll just have to check them to be certain.

Weird, to me it just sounds like a bad exhaust leak. But I don't know how you can really tell anything from a video anyway. Do you have oil pressure? I had the oil pump go bad on mine a few years ago at around 104,000 miles. Got lucky, it happened at home, and I was able to replace it with no harm to the engine.

Factory hidden winch? They seriously did that?

I'll just state that every state is different, every insurance company is different, every adjuster is different. Your results may vary. I know my results varied a from what has been posted here. One big factor is who is at fault for the claim. If it's your vehicle and someone else hit you, you have a lot to say about what happens to your vehicle.

So your next move is to get licensed to be a truck driver then? That would be a nice step to check out Colorado on someone else's dime.

As I understood, the reason for swapping to a V8 was to get rid of a crappy running 4.0. So building a stroker 6cyl. doesn't sound like a solution to the problem to me. What spend hundreds of $ to build a stroker when it might be a $50 fix to an otherwise fine engine? Now if a V8 is what you want, because you want a V8, why not get a wrecked V8 Grand Cherokee for a complete donor vehicle? Personally I'm tired of seeing Chevy engines transplanted into everything breed of vehicle on the planet. Just sayen.

When in doubt, replace crank censor . I don't actually know anything, just seems like replacing that censor can fix a lot of odd things.

Being that you had a complete cowl clip I have to ask why did you only do a half cowl section? It would have been a lot less hassle to just clip the entire cowl section and been done. Not trying to be wise guy, just really curious what your reason was. Regardless of your reason, it looks like it working good.

Sounds really close to my issue. If you find the cause before I do please PM me the solution!

Looks like a nice one.

Nice you can walk to work, if you think about it that's a pretty big benefit right there. Save money in gas, keep from getting a belly like mine, good way to clear the head before starting in at work and the same before getting back home, etc.

Nice, for that price I would have grabbed it too! Interesting drive line. Looks like variable speed belt drive? to a transmission and chain. Makes me wonder what top speed was.

Wide variety of people/occupations on here. Some sound very interesting. Me, self employed for several years now. Mainly auto body. Mainly buying, fixing, reselling cars so I can work at my own pace. But do some customer and some fab work here and there. Getting older and worn out from doing this stuff, could use a change, or maybe an employee would help.

Look closer, it's not missing in the photo just "hiding" behind the drag link and not labeled but it's there. Yes much debate over the dampener. Some people like to say it's a band aid to some other problem. Yes, it could be, but at the same time why did the factory put it on there then. Because it's needed. I have had some experience with death wobble on a couple different rigs. The one issue was tires. They balanced fine, looked good, and a friend of mine put them on his Ford Ranger without issue. But with a new set off tires my issue was gone. The other one that comes to mind was the bolt on a newly installed track bar came loose. I know there was other cases too but danged if I can remember them. I'm thinking I've seen a bad wheel bearing caused it too. As said, check everything, there is no one common cause for the issue. It could even be the nut behind the wheel! Very rare though.