Keyav8r

The first three numbers in the tire code are the measurement of the tire's width in millimeters. So, a 245 is narrower than a 255. The second two numbers are the aspect ratio, or the ratio of the tire's sidewall height to the tread width. So for a given tread width, a lower aspect ratio number will mean a shorter sidewall and therefore a smaller overall tire diameter. A 255/45 would be taller than a 255/35 and would cover more ground per revolution. The last two numbers are the rim size. The letter generally denotes speed rating. The speed you drive at has no effect on the speedometer error that is induced by the difference in tire diameter/ circumference. The ratio of the error will remain constant whether you are driving 30 mph or 90 mph. The 255/35 tire would have a sidewall height of 89.25 millimeters - 20" rim plus 89.25 mm plus 89.25 mm The 245/45 tire would have a sidewall height of 110.25 millimeters - 20" rim plus 110.25 mm plus 110.25 mm. Therefore it would be the "taller" tire requiring fewer revolutions per mile. Don't have my inch to mm chart handy but you can google one and calculate the overall tire diameter and multiply that pi for the circumference.

MJ Tech Forum - Oct. 3 - "WJ Booster and MC, Now No Brakes"

My bad. I used the wrong words - Akula69 said in another thread that after bleeding the system five times (3 quarts of fluid), he had to crack the lines at the distribution block (below the master cylinder), not the rear proportioning valve to get the last bubbles out of the system. The thread is a couple of days (or more) old and I think it has WJ Booster in the title. Covered brake bleeding issues. There's another thread about brake bleeding in between your post and the one above.

Someone on the forum has the 88 FSM in pdf format and can send it to you. They sent it to me, but I can't remember who it is! Ah, the delights of one's golden years.

From the'88 FSM: 1/4" bolts (and studs) - 84 inch pounds, 5/16" bolts (and studs) - 132 inch pounds, oil pump cover bolts - 70 inch pounds. Same as the previous post except in inch pounds. Use a 1/4" or 3/8" drive inch pound torque wrench. A foot pound torque wrench probably won't be very accurate at the low end of it's range.

Someone (Akula?) mentioned having to loosen the connections at the proportioning valve to get the last bubbles out of the system.

It be working.

Voted yes, yes, no because the clocks in both trucks work and I have some spares from JY trips.

That right there qualifies for either The Bronze Cojones of The Year Award - OR - The DA of The Year Award. I know which one gets my vote.

Thanks, Don. I have the original "3/4" cluster from the '88 that I replaced with a full cluster. The volt meter was working on it so that gives me a spare if needed.

Don, Not to hijack your thread, but are the '91 clusters specific to that year only? My voltmeter doesn't work and I'm wondering if, after I check all the wiring out and turns out good, I can use a voltmeter from another year MJ or XJ. Still have the gas gauge issue but haven't had time to check the wiring on it yet. Will probably try to attack both problems at the same time. Fred

Sounds like you have a short to ground either in the wiring from the light to the door jamb switch (maybe pinched or burnt a wire doing the floor pans) or one of your door jamb switches is grounded out.

Are you still looking? Have photos of the wood grain bezel and one of the clips to send you. PMs sent.

Jim - it's an Italian company that makes all kinds of stuff. Pronounced fra-jil-ee. Must be one of those big conglomerates because we get shipments from them all the time on electrical components, filters, controllers, etc. - didn't know they were also into suspension components.

mvusse - Misunderstood where you were in the process. Back to the original post, I'm surprised the Maxima and Murano are on the list. I see a lot of them on the streets. My daughter has owned two Muranos and one Maxima over the past 6-8 years and they have been reliable cars that she enjoyed. She's changed cars so often because my son-in-law manages a dealership and likes to keep her (and our grand-daughter) in safe, reliable, late model vehicles.

Sweet! I'll use this to replace the too large hose that's on there now.

mvusse - If you want to delete a post, go to "More Reply Options" and you will find a "Cancel" option.

Must be something hallucinogenic in the water in FL

Knucklehead - Dedaw said he had changed the rms, oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket within the past six months. So I was mentioning the other potential leak sources and noted the location of the crossover pipe and the possibility of a transmission leak. I also questioned oil usage and, based on his later response, it's evident it is an engine oil leak. As Cruiser said, the rms/oil pan are the low point on the engine so almost any leak will wind up dripping from there. And it can blow anywhere. As has been said above, the first step is to clean the engine to locate the leak or at least eliminate potential leak sources from the list. Start at the top, with a clean engine and work your way down. On my 88 I did the valve cover gasket (Fel-Pro), the distributor gasket/o-ring, the oil filter adapter o-rings, oil pan gasket (Fel-Pro), timing cover gasket, front seal, and rms (Fel-Pro double lip) and she don't leak no more. I did the timing cover and front seal because the timing chain and sprockets were worn out and the vibration dampener/crank pulley was separating. Hopefully your leak will be simpler and your workload less.

Simple test for the oil sending unit is to screw it out and replace it with a pipe plug (1/8" or 1/4")

You may have a broken or disconnected vac line behind the dash. With the engine running, stick your head into the passenger footwell, move the selector on the heater controls and listen for a hiss. If you hear anything You can use a piece of vacuum hose as a stethoscope to locate it.

Check distributor gasket/o-ring, oil filter seal, oil pressre sending unit, oil filter adapter o-rings (there are three of them and they may be very hard and brittle). The adapter is sometimes a bear to get off. Looking at your photo, there seems to be more oil on the passenger side of the crossover pipe and the pipe is back away from the RMS area. Have you checked transmission fluid level and for leakage from the transmission fill plugs or other fittings? Are you having to add engine oil between changes? What gasket did you use when you fixed the valve cover? If there is oil above the adapter, it's probably coming from the valve cover. This sounds like a shotgun approach but on our trucks you need to check everything.

The caliper brackets look pretty much like those on my 88 2WD. I would think the calipers for 2WD trucks would not have changed over the years. I'll take a photo of the 88 caliper on the truck and send it later today. PM an e-mail address and I will send it from my phone. That's easier than posting the photo.

I have 235-75R15's on an 88 and a 91 with no issues. I did have a slight rub on the base of the flare on the 91 until I put a missing trim screw back in place.

Check eBay Motors for the center cap. There were several styles on there tonight.