mountainman

:rotfl2: ........ :thwak: ......... :group beer:

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Fixed that for ya jimoshel...;) Yes its purpose is to control brake bias depending on body tilt. When you jump on the brakes hard, the car tilts forward effectively shifting all the weight to the front wheels. If the braking force stays the same in the rear as it was when the car was level... the rear wheels will lock up and you will spin out and crash. This little item was employed before ABS came about/was perfected. Id suggest leaving it there.

For an engine with such miles, i wouldnt suggest 10/30. Id say run 10/40. So at this point you could dump a qt out and pour in a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer. It will increase the viscosity index one notch and you should see an oil pressure jump. But yeah also do the pressure test with a mechanical gauge to diag where your trouble may be in relation to what factory spec is.

It becomes habit to bleed with the engine running because most cars techs will work on have ABS. The module needs power to have all the pistons in operating position. So when bleeding old cars or trucks like we have, with NO abs.. your fine to do it with engine off. But it doesnt hurt to do it with it running. Either way is fine. I have grown accustomed to engine running with anything that has a booster.

NOPE. especially not if its cast iron. its perfect. :) You only throw out teflon coated pans so you can skip cancer and get some nice vintage cast iron ones. Food tastes better in em anyways. :D

I forget to check this for a few days and come to see all this. :eek: Marie.. you ROCK! this is awesome to see you working through it yourself. I'm sure youll get it now, its just a matter of time before its all dialed and working properly. The CC is great, everyone is so helpful. :yes:

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My only question is, did you back the E brake cable off from its over adjusted point BEFORE you put on the new shoes? Love your build. Kickin @$$ and takin names. :)

Jeep girls are definitely the coolest. :) One that wrench.. even better. :wrench:

We have to get you a real camping stove. Propane sucks. But the comansion RULES!!!!

Man this sucks. getting the shop to admit fault will be a nightmare. Now if you pull the pan off and pull rear main cap and see damage, or find any of the main caps loose... then you have your answer. Even then they will prob claim sabotage from you. Always film stuff when doing investigative teardown to prove they were at fault. Wish i was closer id come lend a hand. But all we can do is type and hope for the best for ya.

sounds like piston slap. Thats why its in such a narrow rpm range at that one spot. when you drive it, it does it juuuust before your about to shift right? at light load and light throttle? How much oil was in the pan when the mechanic took a look? did he tell you it was low? that doesnt sound like a rod knock, but having lost all oil pressure.... either something is up or your gauge sender just quit. You should have an answer if a real mechanic looked at it. Did the oil pressure magically come back? did he do an oil pressure test? what did he find? what does your gauge say now? what weight oil is in it?

BFG KM2. While ive heard some complaints about this not being a good snow tire, i just havent seen it myself. many i know run them in snow and have great reviews for that. what i like about them is they are tall and skinny. You can get them in 33x10.5 which many others don't offer. I myself am a big fan of tall skinny tires. :) I have one set of KM2s now and will be putting a set on my jeep soon. :yes: TOYO Open country M/T which is another thats avail in 33x10.5 (that being my fav size) Interco Narrow S.S (another dope choice) Interco TRXUS MT. interco TRXUS STS Maxxis M8090 Creepy crawler Maxxis MT762 bighorn Yokohama geolander M/T+ i could prob go on forever, but this is what i had time to type up off memory and looking at charts for a refresher. I'm a tire nutjob so i want the best tire i can get on my jeep cause one thing ive learned about wheelin... tires make a HUGE difference. Almost as big as the driver mod. ;)

yup. Like they said, re arching the leaves puts the curve lower down. The axle comes down with that event. lifting the truck. Get it now?

Thats what i did. While its a bit hokey, its plenty strong to drive the truck till i get all the proper stuff i want. I'm getting a different axle up front anyways. So i drilled my track bar bracket over about an inch. put my axle dead center. As for alignment just use the tape measure trick up front to set the toe. Searching on this site for hours will get you all kinds of info. Also look at what hornbrod says about setting his caster. he didnt need many shims at all to get the caster back to correct. So you can prob hit the junk yard, get some caster shims from any XJ or Mj and then pop in an 1/8 inch or so. That will center your wheels in the front fenders and get the caster back closer to stock. Setting those two adjustments should get you by till you go all in. :)

This thread helped me a ton. http://comancheclub....e-yall-running/ Ive been doing mucho research because of that thread. I'm doing the ruffstuff SOA kit for the rear and putting my d44 in at same time. Doing either rock krawler or clayton 4.5" springs up front, because i have 2 inch steel pipe spacers now. Then I'm debating between many diff control arm and track bar options up front. And when done ill be on 33" KM2's

Get an adjustable track bar and then get it aligned. :) I have found so far that death wobble seems to be directly tied to the tires friction on the road. So when you hit a bump that connection is broken and then when it tries to reconnect with the road it can't and starts bouncing. My truck did it when it was all stock, in a rare occurence on a corner. I checked the toe and it was off. reset and no issues again. ( i drive thousands of miles at a time). Was on camping road trip that time. Then i lifted it 2 inches... bam it was back bigtime. 3 times in one day. Checked toe.. it was all jacked up again. I also had to move my track bar over an inch due to it being slightly bent from an accident. So now my front end is dialed and I'm running 31"s and havent had any wobble at all. Of course balance can also play into this. Get all 4 balanced and rotate if tread dictates the need to. Oh yeah... all the stuff in my front end is 186k miles old. So its not that anything is worn out, cause my control arm bushings look like a dry lake bed....lol... yet i was able to cure the problem. Also of course if track bar is loose, it won't keep everything where it should be and then multiplies the death wobble problem once it starts. Youll get it. :)

Yeah sounds good to me. Over 100 psi you have to worry. Anything under that is great. My 4.0 runs 40 at idle and 60 on the freeway. These are typical numbers for most engines. I build a ton of engines and i look at specs all day long. Many of my aircooleds run 30 at idle and up toward 75 psi on the freeway. Honda s2000 is 30ish at idle and needs to be up toward 90 when revved. IIRC.

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May as well. I mean. there are hundreds of members. Should just randomly pick one every month and then just have them give you all the info you need. Should be plenty of shiney ones to make smiles, and could also do a "build in progress" one now and then. Pete.... is there a possibility of a gallery for the site? or a "pics only" section/forum. Then everyone can either link their stuff in there, or post the pics to the gallery. So you always have em.

this topic RULES!!!! i love portals man. They are no joke. :brows: Image Not Found :drool: Image Not Found

:drool: .......... :drool: SO jealous. Hopefully next time you make this run my truck will be ready. id love to go with you guys if i could. :) Of course only if invited. By this time next year my truck should be pretty well dialed. D44 for the rear is home, working on the rest now. Getting gears is in motion. :) Fordyce sounds AWESOME. :thumbsup:

Yeah you could have tweaked something and now a rear brake is dragging. Will smell similar to clutch but not the same. When you smell it bad, get out and put your hand near or on the rear wheels... one WAY hot? there you go. Or if you get out and smell the bell housing and it stinks BAD, then you have diagnosed where the issue is. Next is of course.. WHY? If you can't diag it quick, stop into a shop you trust and get a diagnosis before it hurts anything. If your clutch is just toast.. so be it. But if theres something hung up.. need to find out asap.

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