mountainman

Go to flywheel shop and have them machine it. They have a rock table for that. Flywheels really don't go bad until theyve been re surfaced like 10 times or they are dual mass and need rebuilt.

why does the thread title say oil change? then the content is fuel pump change?

no they actually do sell the ring gear from the flywheel mvusse. You sweat it off with a torch and replace it, when your flywheel teeth are damaged. Thats what hes talking about. :)

just go to rockauto... 1987/jeep/comanche/2.5 then search flywheel. youll see it. :) Only one option.

Is the 86 any different than the 87? cause rockauto has the 1987 one for 95 bucks. :)

Well IF you can get a bread truck to snipe everything from, you can do it for cheap, but the issue is how much torque it makes. Youll need beast axles and Tcase to use all the power. (as in atlas and 14 bolts) Prob have to reinforce the entire front of the truck, and then getting it up and running with all the bells and whistles.. its not a cheap endeavor... to put it lightly. Not that ive done it, but i do have friends who have done it to their full sized chevy trucks, and it is no joke. The path of a baller, for sure. With as bad @$$ as our stock engine is, and the truck was made for it, i don't see any reason to do a 4bt other than to say 2 things... A i have more power and torque than i could ever use and i like to $#!& parts out the back often... and B my dick drags behind me on the ground. lol

for now, drop in a used 4.0 so you can get your ducks in a row for a bigger build. Unless you have another car to drive while its down.. then the skies the limit. Use your rod knock motor as the base for the stroker build since it will be out and sitting there anyways. Can do the 4.2 also, don't always have to go 4.6. I mean... at 225 ft lbs of torque our stock motor isnt exactly lagging...lol.

guy in the video must like having an oil covered engine bay...lol

:eek: GET SOME!!! thats bad @$$

Is the test and readings the same for a non renix? Or ?

This is where i buy all my stuff. http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/i ... =1022_1065 You will be able to build a NICE exhaust on a manch for a reasonable price with the vibrant stuff. Just lay under the truck with a notepad and envision where you want it. Use your tape measure as you go. So.. 20 inches straight.. write that on notepad.. then.... 15 degrees up *take notes* then 35 inches straight..... etc etc. Then you know what sections you need to order. Doesnt have to be exact either cause as your cutting it theres so much room for error when welding. you can shave a bit more or whatever. I don't want to make it sound too easy, but it always has been for me. Get the straight pipe section at the exhaust shop in town to save shipping, and order any bends from the guys above. Def post pics of it when done. You kinda inspired me, i may do one on mine now. I'm just a nutjob for new tires and new exhausts. Always really tops off a nice build.

timing could also be way far off. As in very retarded. You have a timing light?

was reading an article last night that an aussie guy wrote, about how all our trucks (chero and manch) have one wheel further back than the other. wheelbase isnt the same from side to side, due to road crown. Designed that way from factory. So odd that i read that, then read this this morning.

So is it not customary to swear on CC? If i need to i will use some very choice words when explaining something, and i don't self censor.. ever. lol

That was my thoughts. I changed the trans mount in about 10 mins with my air gun. So at 30 bucks.. i don't mind changing it whenever it sags. If its every few years... 30 bucks is a tiny price to pay spread out over 2 years. :)

I always do it when its hot also because it flows more freely. But i never get a drop on me. You use the drain pans that are enclosed.. so they just have a little hole in the middle. You then wear latex gloves... and get the drain plug right to the last thread. Then spin it off and let it fall into the pan. It can't go inside cause the drain hole is too small. I then grab it when the draining event is done, give it a spray of berrymans so its nice and clean and put it back. ZERO issues. And the other trick is to put a huge old sweater or Tshirt under the oil filter so that none ever gets on your frame. Been doing that for years before i ever got a manch because all vws have the oil filter in a LAME spot right above a frame rail. So being shop foreman at a vw dealer, you learn all the factory tricks and have to pass em on to the newb techs. ;) :wrench:

Damn this sucks... here's to a hopefully quick resolution.

I'm going with alignment. My truck was stock and after had been wrecked i moved stuff around to get it where i wanted it. I adjusted the toe and drove it. Death wobble! I then moved the toe to where it seemed best and the wobble was gone. Too much in or out and i had wobble. Then i went on a long road trip and got the wobble several times in long soft sweeping turns. Toe + hard as a rock tires. I rotated tires and havent had it since. They are sensitive to the amount of drag the axle has on it, to one side or the other. So tire friction plays a big part in this equation.

Thats what i was thinking. But i have 60 psi at cruise and 40 at idle. lol. No real reason to change it. BUT.... ill be in there. May as well.

Yup and anchor makes them all. They make the one for Orielly,pep boys and they make the one for autozone. Autozone even references it as A2625 (anchor). Napa has one that is balkamp which is likely a better unit,(if not made by anchor) AND they only want 18 instead of the 30 that the rest of the houses get. Rockauto has the anchor mount for ... TEN bucks. lol. Yes thats 10 dollars. But with shipping its 20 bucks and i didnt feel like waiting. *parts chimp* hahhhahaha! love it.

looked cruiser. Engine is 100% DRY everywhere. But seeps from the bell housing every time its shut down. Back of valve cover.. DRY *check* Oil fillter mount... DRY *check*. So I'm prob gonna change the RMS just cause it has 186k on it. My only debate in my head now is, do i change the oil pump while in there.. or leave it. :hmm:

Just figured id post this to maybe help some others in the future. Well ive had my manch for nearly 7k miles of driving now and on my last camping trip it started making this buckling metal clank at low speeds and idling with the AC on. And when youd shut it off it made a little "rock stuck between exhaust pipe and crossmember" sound. So i thought... something is up i just don't know what. First of this type of jeep ive ever worked on. I work on cars every day for a living and have my own shop so fixing cars is nothing new to me. So it should be easy to find right? look look look... everything seems OK. Sound can NOT be heard from under the car, only transmitted to you when your IN the cab. So I'm fiddling with it and i realize.. its GOT to be the trans mount. Nothing else can make this noise I'm hearing. The mount is only 30 bucks at Oreilly... so ill go grab one and pop it in. Soon as i pulled the cross member off.... :eek: THERE is the sound... the stupid exhaust hanger is made as part of the transfer case bracket... and the trans/tcase mount had sagged so much that the mount was resting ON the cross member... :fs1: It all looked normal to me, because i had never seen it apart before. Soon as i changed the mount, that exhaust hanger is now an inch+ off the cross member. Its like a new car... shifter is higher in the cab and its SO quiet now. YAY!!! :clapping: So i would say to anyone with a comanche.. have a look under there and if you have over 150k.... just change the mount. Its cake.

I have seen those floor boards before.... :idea: oh yeah! They were part of davy jones ship the flying dutchman. ;) Id work on those floors and get a bumper first. truck looks level to me. What you wanting to do? puck the front and bring it up a tad or?

http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/products/corrosion-prevention Thats a fav amongst restoration folks in several of the vintage car communities I'm in. :)

so thats the good thing.. you didnt miss much.. you OWN the damn thing. lol.