mountainman

Sounds like you need to text fuel pressure and volume. Glad the lazy o2 fixed much of it. the refurbished tailgate handle comment cracked me up.. :rotfl2:

What is the year/make/model of ford we are after that has the 8.8 in it with 4.10s? I want to start collecting parts to regear and SOA at the same time. Ill have 31s soon and 3.07s and i don't think it will stay with that combo for long. Sounds like i will prob hate it. lol

I mean, if your towing and or mudding alot at high RPM/high wheel speeds, then yeah your gonna need something that can stay coupled under high stress. But if your crawling and always in a high reduction gear.... then youll probably not need more than stock/stage 1 at the most. :)

Luk, sachs, exedy, all will work great as factory replacements. If you want to step up a bit cause of your driving, then yeah a stage 1 would prob work from either spec or centerforce. I don't think youd need much more for daily driving and standard wheeling. Id rather my clutch slip than snap axles or transfer case parts or drivelines. So ill prob always run a stock clutch. Even when i go to 33s. Thats what 4L is for. hehehe. I use rockauto.com for all my parts too. Prices are great.

CC member dedaw has a rod knock and could use a running motor. Id just sell it to him. Prob be about 150 for shipping by truck (use R&L carriers) and then whatever you ask for it. :D

your truck all stock? or modded? plans for use?

I will say, thats one perrty MJ. :brows:

Been studying and studying and searching and reading on the convex deal.... basically so far nearly zero info. It is mentioned in various places as having existed and is known by some as flywheel crown. It was designed to enhance the takeup character of the clutch which in turn would enhance drivability. Its basically something they tried out and being un noticeable no other manufacturers used it. Now clutch technology is so good ..AND marcel in the clutch disk is designed to provide the same outcome this very light convex/crown did.... they stopped using it and... nobody else ever used it or even tried it. Essentially when it did exist.. the highest portion would take the most wear since it always gets touched first and especially with people riding the clutch at lights and all the other odd driving habits people have it would be worn flat before 100k miles. It was a VERY light crown. Then coupled with the fact that basically nobody is gonna spend the money on a machine to put the crown back on the surface, for one flywheel for one make of car, out of all that exist.... as i said before... as soon as the first correct clutch job is done... the crown is removed on the rock table IF there is any even left on it. Aftermarket flywheels... say centerforce... are made flat and can be used both with their disk and PP and any factory disk and PP. No adverse driving character to be noted. Even friction linings themselves have changed probably close to 10 times since 1991. due to rules and regulations. Stuff just keeps advancing. So to any who would worry, don't. Your fine getting your flywheel ground and putting in a nice new clutch. Your less likely to get chatter that way than if you simply sand the flywheel with sandpaper. Proper break in is also VERY important on all clutches, don't forget that part. :)

Just did a little search in your area, as though i lived there. Here are the places i would take my engine to... http://gunthersmachine.com/ http://www.automachineshop.net/ http://www.ellisonsmachineshop.com/contact.html

damn dude.. thats awesome. Mine has taken me all over the place, camping, tons of interested parties and positive comments, waves from people on the road pics taken on the freeway etc. But as for a GF, id LOVE for that to happen. You are a lucky man. :)

I have no experience with Jasper. It is just that when I mention Jasper to some people I get negative comments. Two mechanics I spoke to recommended Jasper compared with an on-site rebuild. Jasper does have a nationwide warrantee. Before I commit to it, I want to know others' opinions. So far, no one has bashed Jasper. Your experience with 210k on a Jasper is positive. My MJ has only 266k. Two mechanics recommended buy it instead of rebuild it? What's wrong with mechanics these days! :nuts: If your block and head are in good condition any reputable machine shop can ridge ream and hone the cylinder walls, line hone the cam and install new bearings, give the head a valve job and you're off. I would try to go to a machine shop instead of a mechanic shop because they might not do that stuff. They arent mechanics any more. They are chimps trained in schools to change parts. Those of us who actually know how to fix old cars, don't work as "mechanics". i won't even accept that title. Makes me feel like i should be in a cage at the zoo changing alternators and doing oil changes. This thread interests me as i may just have to pick up here where i have picked up in many other forums. I build engines for a living, for all makes and models. I have a perfect rep for some of the most well built and reliable engines out there. Just amazes me that there are so few people not only willing to rebuild an engine, but willing to put love into the build like it is their own. thats what makes a solid engine. Job done 110% the first time. No corners cut, just like the factory did it. Thats the only way you can expect at LEAST factory output and longevity.

This is why i love this forum. Someone has already seen the issue and has the exact answer.. lol. epic!

Nope. This is a VERY common procedure on Jeep 4.0L engines at around 200,000 miles. It always lasts until the owner either sells the vehicle or decides to build a styroker. lol...just because its common doesnt mean its right. grapes of wrath engine repairs goin on over here. :rotfl2:

I vote "or." The simple option you omitted is to drop the pan and install new bearings. Getting the pan off the first time is a nuisance but, overall, this is an easy fix. Do the rods and mains, and the rear main seal all at the same time. Thing is, if the engine is high enough mile to be in such bad shape, a re-bearing isnt going to fix much. Usually new bearings on old journals will seize up anyways. I mean some get lucky and it works but that depends on the integrity of all the parts involved. If the rods big end is mis shapen due to the knocking/reason it ate the bearing... its just gonna lock up as soon as its warmed up and then it will throw a rod. I don't suggest slapping new bearings on old journals.. ever.

Odd. I wish someone could explain the science behind a convex contact surface. If it was something great, then it would become mainstream. But this is the first ive ever heard of it. from every engineering standpoint, it makes zero sense. has me.... :hmm:

well dedaw.. my advice is to pop in another 4.0 now/asap and then set to doing the LS1 or other custom conversion over time. So you have a car while you scheme the new setup. Cause an LS1 isnt just going to fall into place like another 4.0 will. lol. OR.. i don't know about you but in my area... cherokees are like ritz crackers. Everyone has or has had one. They are for sale everywhere for as low as 400 on up to another ultra low of 1200. You could buy a whole nother jeep to drive while you "build" this one. Thats my plan, I'm gonna buy a chero and beat the $#!& out of that. Keeping my nice LWB manche in the minty condition its in. It will end up being VERY capable, but i won't cave the whole truck in like i would a dime a dozen cherokee. I just don't see hurting such a nice truck to go wheelin super hard.

Just glanced at some junk yard sites in your area.... 350-500 for a complete engine from another manch. Id have that engine swapped out in time for dinner on sat night. lol. I understand how you feel, if my engine makes any off noises... its coming out.

so the discussion the other day was over exact pricing of doing this swap... so if i may ask.. how much did you end up into this? don't have to tell if you don't want to of course.

:drool: :drool: :drool:

I drive my 4.0 every day and it has its original flywheel and the new clutch was put in last year, flywheel was rock surfaced at driveline service las vegas. It drives just fine. So i agree that the factory can be right in many cases.. but on this one I'm on the fence until i put in a new clutch on one of these 4.0's and have an issue myself. I would almost bet money that theres not a convex flywheel left in existence. As long as these vehicles have been around... every one of them on the road has likely had a new clutch or 2 put in. (I'm sure theres some 25k mile 4.0 out there to smack me in the face :yes:)

nothing.. its bull-$#!& just like in that debated topic. Nobody has an actual answer. lol. As a guy who does clutches for a living... (One in the shop 10 feet from me being done now) i can tell you i have handled probably 300 flywheels in the past 20 years... not ONE has been "convex". Just like the factory also says you CAN NOT machine dual mass wheels.... yet i have them done all the time by a pro who has a clue. Thats why they also contradict themselves and give you a go-no go spec for play. lol.

I'm gonna go with, that was factory BS. Cause not a clutch made today is set up to deal with a convex face. That would mean all the contact would be in the center of the pad which drives the car, until that area wears down more than the rest and you have full contact. talk about a chattery SOB until it had 5k miles on it, not to mention nearly NO torque holding capacity when new.. it would slip like crazy with such a small contact area. Most disks and PP's are flat... so id have the flywheel ground on the rock table like every other flywheel and it will work just like new.