Biotex

Just got an answer back from Joe. Here is his reply: "That’s the way they’re designed by Jeep. The U bolts will keep them from shifting sideways just make sure they’re tight and you should have no problems but all vehicles up to present day are designed the same way." So, i'll run without them and keep an eye out for movement.

The first thing I noticed when I got my new spring pack from General Spring (the military wrapped ones in 3(2), is that they didn't have the clip. I thought to myself aren't they going to spin??? I have them installed, and kept meaning to e-mail Joe and ask his advice, but kept forgetting. This thread has reminded me, so i sent him an e-mail. I will post on here what he advises. Because of the arch, it will be hard to put a clamp anywhere but right next to the perches, but i think even that would be better than none at all. If you add a spring with the same or close to the same arch as the mains, then I would most definately want one, but that is just my uneducated opinion until the expert advises me otherwise. Here is a picture. Notice the clamps holding the main, 2 &3 spring, but nothing on the overloads...

So, now that you have driven it, how does the power compare to Maura? Is the HO 4.0L something I "must have"?

It's a plastic tank skid cover correct? I think there are metal ones, but I have only removed the plastic ones. Usually the plastic is broken, and/or the bolts twist off. I remove them and leave them off. I don't see what good they serv. I'm planning on a metal one. Edit: You mentioned the bolts spinning in the frame, so you must have a metal skid. I think sparks are in your future...

I think setting up gears in H.S. shop is definately something that should be taught or learned. Not sure that it is easier than swapping the complete rear end though. For the experienced probably, but for a first timer IDK. Good to know how to properly set up the gears, so i'd lean towards that direction.

What??? That's not what he said.... It reads: She's more beautiful than my wife. I find the price ridiculasly high but still cheaper than a girl friend, but not necessarily, The French market is impossible to decipher. If it's less than the average price (for a truck of the vintage, etc) I'd be on it like white on rice. If I had the money... I know about the smell of the cities. I was in Paris a few years ago, and for such a romanticized city, the diesel fumes, traffic, & crappy sanitation downtown made me vomit repeatedly. But yes, drive it like you stole it. 4X4 the piss out of it. Make sure the floors are solid. Mine has 477,000 km and is still operative. The only times I've been stuck were .... well, NEVER!

The high pinion D30's are surprisingly strong. You can fix a few weaknesses fairly inexpesively by upgrading the joints and going with a solid shaft in place of the vacuum disco setup. It becomes a fine line if you have to regear, add lockers, weld tubes, truss, one piece axles etc... most would agree that it is not worth that kind on money so you have to have an end goal in sight to make your own decision. For most of what we use these trucks for, the D30 works nicely if you don't get too crazy with them.

They are $250 all day long at my salvage yard and that is still a bit high IMO.

I just looked at the diagnostic procedure in the 88 electrical manual and there are two checks. With key in run Disconnect connector C139 and needle should go to full if there is a good ground at G107. If it doesn't, then replace sender. At C203 terminal 15, should read 0-88 ohms with C139 connected. If it reads this value, then replace the guage. If not then there is an open to the sender. Hope this helps.

Is the needle on the guage possibly stuck because it is physically touching that screw you mention? It should go to empty with the connector unplugged. As others have stated, when it goes to full, it is a short to ground on the sender wire. Try a continuity test from ground to the sender wire and see if you have a short to ground condition in the wiring harness from the back of the guage to the fuel sender unit. You could probably do a decent physical and visual check by tracing the wires as best you can. If no short to ground, then your guage is bad.

pm sent

My brother works for Sun Signs in Austin, so I get some incredible deals on my signage. Vinyl is pretty much free as is all the art work. I may have to pay for material, but more than not he finds leftovers. I never asked him if he worked with neon. Nice beer sign collection...

Most definately purchase it. You won't regret it...

I can relate to the hobby becoming the job! Reason I ask, is that I see tons of posts with external sites hosting the pictures, and then the owner reorganizes his albums, and the links get lost. Not being in control of the photos can cause a lot of good tech to be lost, so I was just thinking of the integrity of the forum.

Forgot to mention... When you go to reinstall it, do yourself a huge favor and get a couple of long bolts that bolt into the block. Cut the hex head off and thread them into the block. These will serve as guide pins so you can stab the tranny easier with those two bolts holding the weight. This will make it much easier to get the input shaft of the transmission to align with the pilot bearing. Which reminds me... Replace the pilot bearing. You are going to want to read up on how to use grease to hydraulicaly drive the old one out...

Pete, What kind of money does it take to have the forum upload pictures directly from our computers? (not needing photobucket anymore). Seems to me with storage as cheep as it is these days it wouldn't/shouldn't cost that much, so mostly curious what that ballpark amount is? The backing up of all the data is probably the costly part i'm guessing...

I just did this two days ago, so the pain is still fresh in my mind and body. I worked on it alone, but had a tranny jack. Being 4wd I think a tranny jack is almost a must, but with your 2wd, I think you could get by with a regular floor jack. Don't think a bottle jack would be wise. You will want to remove the shift lever from inside the cab first. I found it easier to loosen the exhaust, but mine was a 4.0L, and yours is different, so can't say for sure. Remove the rear drive shaft, and drain the fluid first or get a bath. The crossmember comes completely off, so real easy to drop the tranny with it gone. Very doable if the bolts aren't rusted...

No, just got 1.5" of lift in the rear. But when I measured, to get the truck near level, took 4" added to the front. I guess the factory had them higher in the rear, but I don't ever haul anything heavy, so I prefer it to sit more level. The 4.5" lift springs were a lot cheaper than the 4" lift ones. Go figure! So, The 4.5" ones will settle in I'm sure. If not, I'll add a heavy front bumper... Talk about schmoozing the boss! :bowdown:

http://comancheclub....ure-ride-hight/ I used those measurements and they are correct it seems. Welcome!

Thanks Danby, I bet that was in a sticky somewhere huh? :doh: I just ordered a: Rubicon Express RE1600 Front Adjustable Track Bar Jeep XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ for $126 with free shipping. That will go nicely with my RE springs. I think I will be able to make what I have work for now until after the painting.

Thanks for the reply mnkyboy! I was hoping you would join in on this because i've read a bunch of your threads recently, and seems you know suspensions pretty well on the Che's. I did forget to mention that the longer hoses were on the way. i ordered them last week so should be here later today. I went out and measured my 4" lift lowers on my TJ, and appears they are only 1/4" longer that stock. So I could see where i could get by with the OEM ones for a while until i recover from the wallet hit the new paint and body work is costing. So back to the track bar... am I going to need a new bracket and adjustable bar or just a bar and use the same bracket? Reason I ask, is that Rusty's has a kit with frame stiffener, adj. bar and HD mount for $220, whereas the tack bar alone is $130. I'm thinking I can use the OEM mount for now, and upgrade the mount later as necessary correct?

Since I installed the military wrap rear leafs, I measured the front, and determined 4" to 4.5" front lift would level the truck out nicely. it is a 90 MJ. I snagged a brand new set of RE 4.5" coil springs for cheap, and I already had the extended shocks and sway bar link, so figure i'll piece together the rest. What I need to know, is about the control arms. Can I get by temporarily with just replacing the lowers and relocating the trac bar, or will the change in caster cause it to be too unstable? I'm weak when it comes to suspension geometry, so any tips or hints much appreciated. For tires, I will leave what's on there until I can re-gear. Edit: longer brake hoses also ordered...

I'm pretty certain it did get rolled over on install. I just don't see any other way for it to happen. Here is the only picture I have since the other one was too close up and was blurry.

I'm just going to put the seal in and drive it. The front bearing is still surprisingly like new. It shifts nicely, and doesn't jump out of gear, so I see no reason to tear into it. The tooth is still a little sore, but not loose. That was a close one...

So you're saying the pass. side axle tube end next to the differential housing does not have a machined area that will accept the seal, but the housing itself has provisions for a seal? Just wanting some clarification since I will be switching to a one piece axle soon.