Biotex

I have a set of nice 3(1) 4x4 springs. They are in West Texas. If you can't find any local, PM me.

I am not a fan of EZ outs. More times than not, they break off and you are in worse trouble then. What I would try first on the one sticking out a little bit, I would take a nut that fits over the nub and weld inside the nut to attach it. The heat from welding helps to break loose the rusted threads, and you can usually remove that broken bolt. The one that is flush, you should center punch it and drill it out with a LEFT handed drill bit. Start small and get bigger in steps. The heat from drilling, and the left hand bit usually backs out the broken bolt without needing to use an ez-out. If you mess up the threads, then you will need a Helicoil to repair them. Use anti-sieze compound when you reinstall new bolts.

I'm not sure what you are asking? If you read the thread, you would see that I put out feelers to guage interest, it was there, got the manufacturer to agree to make them at a discounted price (group buy price). I test fit them on my rig, they work perfectly, so now General Spring has them in stock. Just give them a call and tell him you want the Comanche Club price.

Sounds like a brake is stuck. I'd jack up each wheel and see if they spin freely. Would explain you bad mileage, and it dying when you take off. Moves in 4wd because the lower gearing makes up for the brakes being on.

General Spring has them in stock. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/

The closest I have is a bronze bushing with the correct ID .588, but 1.092 OD. It is yours if you want it, but will need a lathe to turn the OD down.

Patrols? got an extra SD33 TD laying around? Oh yeah, with A/C... :bowdown:

No problem. It's why most of us are on this forum. Get help when you need it, and give back to the community when possible..... Bud Light! :banana:

Look at this site: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Axle-Swap-Combo_c_39.html They sell a kit with everything you need. If you know the OD of the 8.25 tubes, you can buy a kit to fit. Even if you source the parts somewhere else, you can look at the shopping list and know what you need. It doesn't include brake hoses and e brake hardware. Just the hard parts.

A few years ago when I was into Scouts, I bought up the NOS inventory from a once dealership where the parts were stored in a wharehouse for a few decades. Among those parts was a box of assorted pilot bushings. If you could give me the sizes, I would be happy to see if I have one that will fit your needs. Here is what I have learned about the difference between bearing/bushing. Bronze pilot bushings should be soaked in oil overnight before installation. They seem to work better in dusty conditions, but that is only what I have read, not actual experience. IMO, bushings wear out faster than bearings.

Make sure you have a shim kit.

Never mind... Found this: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37235-rear-adjustable-brake-proportioning-valve-with-lift/ Mods: please delete this post....

Not really. I own or have access to anything you could possibly need. Most of the area down here has no cell phone signal, so just always have warm clothes, water and food. Then the obvious other things, and you'll be fine.

Any one know where I can get the rod ends for the LSV linkage? Or am I going to have to fab a new rod?

The manual covers 2.5 as well.

There is an 88 electrical troubleshooting manual here: http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html You can use the diagram to trace backwards until you find the break.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/36875-get-your-copy-of-the-renix-fi-fuel-injection-manual-here/

Much appreciated link. :bowdown: I did not know those fit, and was thinking of a cut and lengthen, but the links are probably heat treated and I wouldn't want to weld them. I was looking around and stock links are dirt cheap, but add lift and they tripple. Edit: I ordered them. Thanks again.

That's also what I'm seeing. Oh well, it was worth a look, because I'm soon to be in the same situation.

Eric 90 4x4 Alpine (near Big Bend Nat'l. Park) If any of you make it out this way and want info on where to wheel, let me know and i'll hook you up. I have access to lots of private ranch property, not to mention the State and National Parks.

No braided. I just picked up a set of longer hoses from Rockauto.The YJ ones. It turns out theyt are not a direct bolt on though. I have to grind a bit off at the banjo. I filled her up with fluid and reinstalled the console. Started on the bed body work. All the dents are pulled and filled. It's much easier with the bed off and upside down.

I had the shocks left over from when I installed new Bilsteins on my Rubicon. I was just surprised they fit so nicely, so I was just passing along the information.

The steam cleaner is more of a very hot water pressure washer. It has the ability to inject chemicals, and works amazingly well. I picked it up at an estate sale a few years back. I installed a new pump on it, and it works like a charm. Kerosene heats the water, and the pump sprays at 2100 psi. I have a total of about $400 in it. They retail for a few thousand. I'm happy!

Today, I finished the lift install. I still need to address the sway bar, the longer brake lines and bump stops. I have the brake lines, just need to perform a quick mod, and they will be ready to install. I will eventually purchase new control arms, but for now I want to get Maura driveable again. Before: After: The track-bar is installed also, just forgot to snap a picture of it.

Not stock TJ shocks. Shocks for a 4" lifted TJ. They are a perfect fit. And yes, I only stated for the fronts.