Biotex

Looks good. I already ordered them. Black reflective based on the feedback.

Impressive! I can appreciate all the hard work and attention to detail. Keep the updates coming.... :thumbsup:

Thanks for the help guys. I'll get them ordered asap. Getting close to paint. :banana:

Anyone know of a source for the tailgate black vinyl lettering? I found some on Ebay, but it was $30 plus shipping. I'd rather spend my money with forum members if anyone out there has them. I did a search, but didn't get any hits. :hmm:

Few hours of wet sanding.

Damn 5"?! SUA? The springs themselves do not net you 5" of lift. They give a couple, and when added to the factory rake and possible sagging fronts, i'm just saying that on my truck it took 5" of front lift to level the truck. I bought 4.5" R.E. coils, so I still have 1/2" of rake.

No I did not change out the shackles.

Guess what? More boring body work. Got the front end in urethane primer at last.

Yes I did. While I like the size of them for sure, and they have that "truck" look to them, I like being able to adjust the mirrors from the inside also. The other factor is I don't like how they warp the door skin sheet metal.

More boring body work. I got the final coat of filler on after removing the pin stripping with an eraser tool. First time I ever used one. Best $20 spent ever! I'm hoping to get some paint laid down next weekend if all goes well.

I know this isn't answering your question, but these are the shocks I installed after my lift of a couple of inches in the rear. Monroe 32370 Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber I basically measured the oem shocks and then called a Monroe tech and asked them to look up a shock that was longer. I don't remember exactly how much longer it is, but the number was larger than the amount of lift I installed. I paid around $24/ea. with free shipping. Hope it helps you...

I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but just to let everyone know. After installing mine, it takes around 5" of lift in the front to level out my truck. I went with 4.5" coils up front so I have a 1/2" of rake. The ride is just slightly stiffer than stock, but expect them to settle a bit.

Look at the POR-15 website. seems I remember them selling a gas tank coating kit.

The best thing I have found to clean out a tank is Acetone. Doesn't clean out rust, just varnish. Best thing I have found for rust is KOH and hot water. NaOH will also work. Potassium Hydroxide and sodium Hydroxide are very caustic and extremely noxious, so take appropriate cautions. It will clean out the tank like it was hot tanked. Inline pumps last longer with a filter before the pump.

You need to call them to get the CC discount I believe.

I just did a buddies a couple of days ago. I just figured it was a fluke that his was not welded all the way around. Seems that it was SOP to " tack" them. BTW: nice weld! good penetration...

Before you sprayed the paint, did you perhaps wipe the area down with prep-sol or maybe used a tack cloth? I've had reactions to prep-sol like you mentioned if not left long enough to completely evaporate. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you didn't let the paint/reducer/hardener flash long enough in the gun? The chemicals need 10 or 15 minutes to bond properly before spraying. How about some pictures?

I didn't see them listed, but I only looked on a couple of sites so far. I'm gathering the parts to add air, and the hoses I have are in bad shape.

Am I correct in thinking I am going to need to swap in a box that supports both the heater and the evaporator when adding A/C to a non A/C truck? It's never easy, so they must be different LOL... If so, anyone have one for sale?

I didn't see any high pressure (liquid) lines listed. You have a source, or you going to make them custom?

General Springs have the military wrap option. As far as I know, they are the only ones out there with them. A double loop around the front eye. Also they give a couple of inches lift and the extra overload spring for towing. $300 plus shipping sure sounds like a sweet deal to me.

Do a search for "General Spring group buy military wrap" in this forum. They manufactured a run of these spring just for our Comanche trucks. Good price and they work well with the 4.5" lift. Edit: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/page-4?hl=military+wrap+springs&do=findComment&comment=369584

Nothing but body work going on. I'm also adding a paint room on to the shop. For some luck reason, all the dents were in places where I could get behind them and use a hammer and dollie. The speaker hole inside the door, and the seat belt mechanism behind the seat were great openings to allow access. Even though I'm not doing a color change, I wanted to sand inside all the spaces, so I decided to remove the front grill assembly.

Yes you can, It would be best to purchase a drill bit with a shallower cutting angle (such as 150°) so you don't drill all the way through the bottom layer. It is still very doable with a standard 118° bit, just takes more finesse.

Isn't there a fusible link in the battery area? All my YJ's have them, so perhaps if there is one on the MJ, you melted it. I'll look at the electrical diagram in a bit.... Edit: I see three fusible links listed in the starter relay area.