Biotex

After getting frustrated trying to make the Dakota tank fit under my MJ I ordered a Genright fuel cell at a huge discount from 4WP. I can take care of some interior trim while waiting for it to arrive.http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=BST2100-1 Nice! I need one of those for my buggy project. You need to sell me that one real cheap, and get you one of those old school tanks that mount behind the rear seat in pickups. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

I'm familiar with the Black Magic brakes, but would rather not spend that kind of money on the stock axles that will be replaced some day soon. I would just like to upgrade the Master Cylinder if that would help any. really not sure if it is much of an upgrade is my concern.

Since I now have a rear bumper with a receiver installed, I can see myself wanting to pull a trailer occasionally. So, I better upgrade my brakes. Didn't want to hijack the other active thread, so thought i'd start my own. I'd love to just swap in an 8.8 disc rear, but not at this time. Is there an uprade to be had by just swapping in a new master such as the 78 Marquis one with no other changes? Is the difference in stopping power worth the cost? I don't need a whole lot more stopping power, just want to be safer...

Here is with a black background and polished fore... The look i'm leaning towards.

Swamp cooler! I'm going to relocate it soon. I started reorganizing and moving in to the new space. Loving the extra room...

Made some progress on the add-on.

What do you all think I could do with those rims to sharpen the look up a bit? Black them out? Polish them? Polish the shiny aluminum, black the background aluminum?

4.5" up front. 1.5" to 2" in the rear. It has about 1" rake in the front still, but that is the way I want it.

Does it have the rear axle disconnect for flat towing? There is one of those in my town for $250, but it has the crappy V6 in it, and it is dirty as heck inside. No rust though. Nice find!

Got my JCR bumper installed on the rear. The aluminum around the back window is also repainted, but not shown in the picture. Front bumper hopefully will be installed next. Been busy with the shop add-on.

I'd assume he never hooked it up after the swap. That's what I first thought, but he uses the phrase "all of a sudden" so this leads me to believe he was driving it, and getting better mileage, then all of a sudden??? There has to be more to the story if you know what I mean. Impossible to help diagnose whith all the missing facts...

So what were you getting before, and what have you changed if anything? Were you getting better mileage before without emissions hooked up?

I did look around through the dorman parts in AZ, but did not find anything. The bumper you posted look like what I need. Thanks for the info.

Yeah, I figure there was a thread floating around on here, but when I saw the magnet, I was so excited, I was going to post no matter... Way to go 500MJ! Kudos.

I'm noticing my tailgate rattles, so I'm looking at it, and I see two holes in the bed near the top that appear to be for a rubber stop. This would put pressure on the gate so it wouldn't rattle, but there is nothing in the holes. There are some rectangular rubber bumpers half way down, but the ones I'm talking about are at the top. Are there supposed to be some stops installed? Where can I get some?

I also have a set of aluminum factory wheels off of a 93 G.C. but I think I like the turbines better, so am thinking I will clean them up and run them for now. I may polish the smooth aluminum, and black out the rest. I'm purchasing a used set of JCR bumpers from a member here, so they are already welded. Thanks! Paint & Body work is one of those items where you get what you pay for, and I just didn't want to spend that kind of money. I drove the truck yesterday to SubWay to get lunch, and I parked way out. I'm looking out the window at the truck eating, and a car pulls in right next to the truck. It was kind of windy, so I thinking a door ding is going to occur. I tore out of the shop, and stood by, and you would have thought the lady getting out was thinking I was going to mug her. This got me to thinking about why did I paint it so perfectly? What will it feel like when I get that first ding? :doh:

You know those magnets you get when you order parts from RockAuto? Over the years, I always just stick them on my tool box or something. Imagine my surprise (you'd of thought I won the lotto) when I looked at the one in the box this time.

Thanks for the link. If you have the Ford links handy, could you stick a tape measure on for the eye-to-end length? Just curious how much longer they are than the 1992+ stock links. At your leisure of course. :cheers: Hornbrod, I measured the Ford links at 10" long eye-to-end. As I was walking back to the house, I passed my 06 Rubicon, and glanced at the Rough Country Links installed. I thought to my self that the diameter of the metal looked smaller than the Ford ones, so I went back in my shop and grabbed a set of calipers and measured the OD of both. The Ford links are .585", and the R.C. links are .520". I realize that links don't usually fail due to the round stock being too small, rather the ends get bent or fail at the threaded portion, but thought that I should mention this tid bit so that everyone can draw their own conclusions. Personally I don't think either set of links would fail as long as the rest of the suspension is up to par, and the OP's clearly is not.

Man that turned out nice. Did you do the prep work or the shop?

Hey Zack, If you have water in the oil, i'm not so sure you would want to run the engine. Since oil floats on water, and the pickup is at the bottom of the pan, on initial startup you will be pulling water through the pump and circulating it. Seems to me more damage could occur, and not worth the risk. I'd perform the compression test without starting the engine first if you are dead set on doing the test. With milky oil, I don't see what else could cause that except a head gasket or a cracked block or head. I'd think if you do the wet test, you'd be able to find out what you need to know.

Of the colors listed, these are the Chrysler Colors available in the Classic Coat: Anyone know which color is the best match for our grey/blue interiors? After looking at these colors, I can't tell... I'm guessing I need a slate blue?

And here are the colors that the SEM Classic Coat product comes in:

Here are the SEM color charts:

Now that is funny!