Biotex

I have two MJ coils that are in good shape. PM me if you need them.

I was waiting until you got the info you needed before I jumped in with my comment. Didn't want to hijack, but do want to give my point of view. I have a healthy 4.0L in Maura, and just a couple of days ago I installed some used 31's on steel rims in place of my stock tires on aluminum rims. Gearing is the original 3.07's. I drove 200 miles of mixed terrain, and so I wanted to see the differences so I could decide what gearing i want. With the 31's, I'm easily able to reach 85 mph and cruise there. Takes a lot more pedal, but doable. Not sure about the fuel mileage, but the rpms were right around 2000 at 80mph. What I found, was that if I keep in 4th gear, and cruise at 65 or 70mph, everything is good. Yet 5th is there if I want it. I really feel like 4.10's would be ideal for me since i rarely cruise over 70mph. I personally don't like to cruise over 2600 rpm's I feel that my 4.0L's sweet spot is there. I'm goinf to swap on my aluminum wheels, and get a good tire balance, and go for a drive to see one more time, but I'm pretty certain 4.10's are all I need with 31's.

Sitting on 31's during a test drive.

Here is a shot of the flares

Went down South yesterday to play some golf with a friend at Lajitas, and on the way to his house I came across this: How can you drive past that without posing?

Couple of updates. My fender flares came in the mail, so I hope to get them installed soon. I installed a set of 31" x 10.5 tires on some steel (9") rims. I wanted to give them a try to see how i liked the new height. I was also curious about how the 3.07 gears would fare. I drove 200 miles, on both mountainous and flat roads. I was able to drive 80-85 in fifth gear with no lack of power on the straights, but on any uphills, fourth works best. The tires are a used set that a friend gave me, so no money lost if i decide to go with 30's. I didn't have them balanced before the trip, and that proved to be a very bad gamble. I got DW at over 80 mph according to my gps. Not a good feeling. :eek: I think the heavier steel rims have a lot to do with the DW. I also feel it was induced by the tires not being balanced. I'm sure the tired ball joints and tie rod ends contributed also, but I never had it happen even once untill the 31's went on. It would be nice to swap my factory aluminum rims on and then balance the tires, and see what happens then.

Well I made it back from Golf, and no issues with the rear end. I drove 85 most of the way down there. Sure glad things didn't lock up...

I keep getting a contant clunking noise from behind my head when I hit bumps. I have a sliding rear window, and if I open it up and pull inwards on the frame, the noise seems to go away. I let go it starts back up. Anyone else?

Dang it! I was hoping that wasn't the case. Now i'm going to worry about mine because it is also making a noise. In 10 minutes I'm going 200 miles with her, and desolate desert area. The things I do to play golf...

Correct, a drift is a punch. Could you enlighten me as to what caused those teeth to break off? My axle is noisy, and I suspect some damage inside, but I'm not ready to tear into it yet. I want to keep driving, but certainly don't want to lock up the axle.

A true work of art. The color scheme is perfect.

Maura is a 90, and so is my spare D35. I would put used parts in, not new. No way I'd spend that kind of money on a D35.

I haven't reinstalled mine yet after paint because I think i'd rather have black vinyl ones. I'm not a chrome kind of guy.

Yeah, thanks for the tip. I have set up gears a couple of time. It's not like I can do it in my sleep yet, but I can get it done. I have all the tools, including set up bearings. It's just challenging trying to do it with used parts. I'm not spending money on a D35, especially since I have that YJ one. I also have a disc brake 8.8 ready to go, but it has 3.54's so I may use it, and swap in some matching gears into the D30 up front. I can justify that expense. I was going to use the 8.8 in my rock buggy, but guess it can wait. Just not in the mood for more down time. Just got her drivable, and wanted to get some road time.

I have been putting this off long enough, so I decided to determine once and for all where the cyclic humming noise was coming from. It definitely speeds up with mph, not rpm. Because the noise sounded so much like tire noise, I swapped in some different tires with no change. I also checked and adjusted the rear brakes with no change. I finally decided to raise the truck on jack stands while running the engine and in 4th gear. I took the necessary precautions, and ran engine up to about 40 mph where the noise seemed to be the most prominent. Once the wheels were off the ground, I could definitely pinpoint the noise from coming from the pumpkin by putting my ear to the cover. sure enough, that was it. I blocked the passenger side wheel, and repeated, and the noise was a bit louder plus there was an added tick to it. Doesn't sound like a bearing, but I might be wrong. I'm suspecting the spider gears. Nothing to do but pull the cover and have a look. I can't justify spending much on a D35, so may just replace the whole rear end. I have a 90 YJ rear with 3.08's which I believe is the same axle, except the spring pads are an inch narrower Comanche is 42" c2c where the YJ is at 41". Should just be a matter of swapping them. If all I find wrong is something like the spider gears, it would be easier for me to swap just those. For that matter, I suppose I could swap in the whole center section just as fast. Takes about 3 hours to set up gears. Aren't these truck just so much fun? :doh:

And reduced backpressure in an exhaust = loss of torque at low and mid-range RPMs. Since I never operate a 4.0 liter higher than 2500 RPM (and rarely even that high) I'll take the torque that I use every day over the 5000 RPM horsepower that I'll never use -- ever. Absolutely! That is why I don't waste my money on larger or "free flowing" exhaust systems. Replacing defective exhaust components is one thing, but adding headers and 3" pipes are just a waste of money to me. I am a low rpm jeep driver. A certain amount of back pressure is required. (or should I say desired) Now, if that dimple was put there solely to cause more back pressure than the optimum, as cruiser is suggesting, so it will heat up the converter, then I would do that mod. Not many dyno experiment results available to go by, so much of this talk doesn't really mean squat. We can only generalize. If anyone knows of some dyno results, please share. Agreed, was just trying to point out that there is a point of diminishing return when opening up an exhaust system. I was clarifying (or attempting to) my earlier statement. Again, thanks for the tip that I am certainly going to use. I also notice another dimple where the pipe crosses over the cross member. Do you know of any aftermarket down pipes for sale without those dimples? Muffler shops are 300 mile away round trip for me.

Sweet! To lazy to go back and re-read.... What's the paint plans?

I'm obviously not stating my thoughts well. I'll say it more clearly this time. Cruisers mod of the removal of the dimple is advisable IMO also, here is why. The stock exhaust diameter is tuned for the stock 4.0L engines rpm range. The dimple appears to have been installed for emissions purposes, by increasing back pressure to slow down the exhaust gas so the catalytic converter can heat up more. I'm convinced that this is robbing HP. What I'm also saying, is that bigger pipes are not always better. There is a trade off. As you increase the pipe size, you decrease velocity. Yes you decrease back pressure, and that is a good thing to a point, because as you decrease velocity, you also decrease scavenging. So there is a trade off, and you want a pipe diameter that has the least amount of back pressure, but enough velocity so you get the effects of scavenging. This is what's considered a tuned exhaust. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpms. So if your power band is located 2-3000 RPM, you'd want a smaller pipe than if your power band is located at 4-5000RPM range. This is fluid dynamics, not an old wives tale. Without a dyno, who's to say what that optimum pipe diameter is, so I tend to go with the Jeep engineers recommendations (minus emissions workarounds.)

And reduced backpressure in an exhaust = loss of torque at low and mid-range RPMs. Since I never operate a 4.0 liter higher than 2500 RPM (and rarely even that high) I'll take the torque that I use every day over the 5000 RPM horsepower that I'll never use -- ever. Absolutely! That is why I don't waste my money on larger or "free flowing" exhaust systems. Replacing defective exhaust components is one thing, but adding headers and 3" pipes are just a waste of money to me. I am a low rpm jeep driver. A certain amount of back pressure is required. (or should I say desired) Now, if that dimple was put there solely to cause more back pressure than the optimum, as cruiser is suggesting, so it will heat up the converter, then I would do that mod. Not many dyno experiment results available to go by, so much of this talk doesn't really mean squat. We can only generalize. If anyone knows of some dyno results, please share.

Increased backpressure in an exhaust = loss of HP at higher rpms. I always assumed the dimple was for drive shaft clearance. Thanks for the tip cruiser! :cheers:

I think I see a Hornet, Matador, Gremlin, Wagoneer, J10, CJ5, Comanche, Pacer did I miss any?

If yours is an 88 year model, then the idle speed is not adjustable. With that said, you will probably want to idle in the 750 rpm range. Idling too low, and you don't get as much oil pressure, and if you put it in gear with the lights on, A/C on etc... and it can stall out. But like I said, the computer controls it anyway, so I'm talking about the older versions when I say 750rpm. is ideal IMO

Pull the top plug. Oil level should be up to the hole. It's on the drivers side and is 22mm

Any idea what the test consists of? I went to welding school my senior year of highschool (2011-2012 school year) No, I don't. Just repeating what a customer told me 2 days ago. I have no way to verify it, but perhaps you can make some calls. The oilfield here is called the Permian basin.

YUP^ Just what i'm going to do to mine. Thanks for posting that. Way cool.