Biotex

1. They are available at any parts store. Located on the fire wall close to top center. They look just like the ballast resistor our Comanche uses for the fuel pumps. 2. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/identify-your-engine-1383352/

How about a picture from farther away?

Ran into my first snag today when my Currie companion flange adapter arrived. Currie (bought from quadratec) sells an adapter for mating a 1330 U-joint to an 8.8 flange. Trouble is, the bolt pattern does not match up. My axle came out of a Ford Explorer which is the truck line, so it needs a 1330 style adapter with a 3" hole spacing. The currie adapter is sold for the car line axles. Since Tatton's drive shaft is making me a new shaft, I gave them a call and an extra $45 to add the correct adapter on to the end of the new shaft. This is what I should have done in the beginning since now I will be getting the beefier 1330 joints on the pinion end of my new shaft. So total cost is now $150 for the shaft with joints installed, and balanced. $45 for the companion adapter, and $35 shipping charge.

Correct. The blue wire "hot in start" will provide full 12v to the coil. Then when the engine starts, and you let off the key, the coil is fed through the ballast resister so the points don't get full 12v. This diagram is not the one I'm looking for, but will get the point to you. Ignore the jumper wire at the starter, because this diagram is showing how to add a Ford style starter solenoid to a vehicle that doesn't have one. Such as a Scout 800B... So, you see that as long as the key is in the start position, the coil is getting full 12V from the "I" terminal on the solenoid. Then when in the run, the voltage comes through the resistor wire, or the ballast resistor. Don't forget to ground the solenoid with a dedicated ground wire.

Roger that.

I'd want four wheel disc brakes in addition to what ^^^He said. I don't think the problem will be moving, rather stopping that much weight reliably. Some meaty tires and put about 750 to 1000 pounds of tongue weight on the truck so that your rear tires don't skid when braking. Towing is one of the main reasons I'm swapping in a Ford 8.8 disc brake axle.

Here is the charging circuit simplified: More later...

It would cost me $100 in fuel just to drive to the nearest drive line shop. I'm probably going with a Tatton's shaft for $150.

You could trim just below the oem bolt holes, and it would be pretty darned close. I cut right at the first bend just to the outside of the holes. If that doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll photoshop a red line into a picture. Here is a shot with the paper template for the rear flare. I ended up cutting a bit more off that pictured. And here is approximately where I cut:

Good to know info. Now that I have crawled under and looked, cutting the yoke down won't accomplish a thing since it isn't bottoming inside the tail shaft, but at the yoke where the u-joint starts. Post 102 and 107 has the pictures. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37070-maura-gets-a-facelift-1990-4x4/page-6

With the addition of the 8.8 axle, my rear drive shaft will be 1" too long. What do you think of if I just remove 1" off the end of the slip yoke? Seems like it would work out ok, but thought i'd ask...

The best place for the negative battery cable is the starter bolt. The starter by far uses the most current, so it needs the best ground. Then, add another wire to the same bolt, and fix it to the fire wall. What I do on CJ's, is to add a stud to the tub fire wall so I can use it as a distribution block for grounds. From there, I ground the alternator, distributor, grill, and frame and dash, and starter solenoid. Ideally, you want a ground for the head so the plugs are getting a good ground. You don't want them to have to go thru the head gasket for a ground. Once all your grounds are in place, then you can add the positive to the solenoid. In your case, you were adding it directly to the starter. You will need to supply the coil also. This coil supply is a 12v supply during cranking, but switched to around 8V during run. It is to keep from burning up your points. That is what the ballast resistor is doing. Without seeing what you are doing in person, I suspect the engine is dying because once the starter quits turning, you lose voltage to the points/coil. Do you need a good wiring diagram?

Thanks for posting that link. I would have missed it for sure.

Just get a pair of axle tube shock mount brackets and weld them to the tubes pointing down at a 45° angle Like I did. Then you can keep your oem shocks. Gives you more ground clearance.

Looks like I ordered them through my prime account: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JWMDD6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are good for around 3" of lift in the rear.

Oh goody!

You should go into production with those! They are awesome.

Are those two people still inside, or his dogs? If those are people, that is hilarious. :rotf:

Definately going to be an adventure driving it down her where the speed limits are 85 mph. :eek:

I re-welded on the old spring perches. In hindsight, I wish I had used the aftermarket ones that allow you to move the axle forward or rearward up to 1". By stretching the wheelbase that 1", the OEM driveshaft would be the correct length. Those aftermarket perches pictured above in post # 1, also reduce axle wrap. Moving the axle back 1" may or may not cause tire clearance issues. It wouldn't in my case, so I wish I had gone that route. If you decide to do this swap, and you are going with a new rear driveshaft, it would be more cost effective to have the shop install 1330 joints. They can custom make the shaft with the yoke adapter and beefier joints on both ends already installed. I use Tatton's driveshafts. Curtis (CJ) is the owner. His shafts have the same warranty Tom Woods has, for a lot less money. He also sells slip yoke eliminators if you really want to do it right.

I haven't sprayed the u-pol yet, no. I'm dreading the prep work due to a torn rotator in my right shoulder. I'm probably going to purchase a cup wire wheel brush, and one of those large grinders to spin it. I'm thinking my 4" grinder won't cut it. Besides, I purchased an 88 Samurai, and have been showing him some love. I'm looking forward to 30 + mpg. I did order all the parts I need to finish up the 8.8 install. Spydertrax 1.25" wheel spacers, e-brake cable, and the yoke adapter. Soon as they arrive, I can finish up and only need to shorten the drive shaft by 1".

Not a downside due to strength. Just because it is not as easy to swap in a new axle on the trail. As for the tubes spinning, yes they can. I added a weld to mine on the bottom, hard to reach part. I can easily stich in the rest later. I don't have the confidence in my welding skills, so will take it to a friends house when it is drivable. He has nickel rod also... As for the 20%, don't know. I read that on 3 different sites when researching for this swap. Maybe it is just bad info perpetuating itself, but I have no doubt it is stronger than a D44, but how much, IDK.

Can't remember. They aren't anything special.

Use Monstaliner or U-pol Raptor. 10x better product.