Biotex

Nicely done sir! I'm also digging the tailgate. What is that buggy build in the background? Looks interesting... :thumbsup:

So the driver side e brake cable looks to be way to short of course. But the pass looks to be way to long. Do you have a long bed mj? Short bed. The cable on mine starts out pointing to the front, then in a long sweeping arc, goes back to the top of the pumpkin where it is attached to an oem addell (sp?) clamp. After the clamp, it makes a loop so it can change direction and go straight into the bracket. The other side mirrors it. If you need a picture, i'll take one, but can't at the moment. This was the cheapest way I could figure to get e-brakes. Only having to purchase one cable.

Yes, this is some good info that shouldn't be lost. You should get the tracings to someone with CAD so they can draw them up to scale for archiving all the pieces along with the instructions.

I'm still learning this as I go, so probably not the best person to advise you about the proportioning valve. From my research, I have come to the conclusion that if you can run either valve with equal success. If you want to delete the load sensing valve, then you need to plug one of the ports on the MJ proportioning valve so that there is but a single line going to the rear. I think there are some good threads in the DIY section. Like this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/

The stock MJ master/booster will not push enough fluid to accommodate the 8.8 discs. Would should plan on an 95/96 XJ upgrade also. As for the E-brakes. The passenger side cable will be long enough to reach the stock bracketry. It will snap right into place. I removed the driver side cable off the 8.8, and ordered another pass. side cable. So basically you need to run two pass. side cables and they will work fine. For the brakes, I used a stock 8.8 rubber brake hose and it threaded right into where the oem MJ rubber brake hose attached to the hard line. I removed the hard line attaching bracket and pulled it down lower to accommodate my 4.5" lift. Your lift might be too much for the stock rubber hose, but should be able to source a longer one easy enough. I left in my load sensing valve, and am using it to fine tune how much fluid goes to the rears. Once I find the perfect angle of the lever, I will lock it down. If I end up removing the rear load sensing valve, then I will swap in an XJ proportioning valve to compensate.

Wouldnt it be easier to ditch the valve now when youre doing the ungrade, then later when you'll have to cap it some way? I'm trying to do this upgrade in stages so I can evaluate by putting some miles on the truck between the tweaks. This way I can report back more accurately. I knew from reading many others accounts on other threads that the stock M.C. doesn't push enough fluid for rear disc brakes, but I wanted to see for myself just how good/bad it was. Now I can honestly say that without upgrading the booster, and with the load sense valve still in place, I couldn't lock up the rear brakes. I tried putting the sense valve in several different positions until the pedal felt the firmest. I felt like the brakes were no better than with rear drums. Now by changing only the M.C. and Booster, I will test and report again. Inevitably, I will end up removing the sensing valve I'm sure. I will also need to evaluate the proportioning valve.

Jim is sending me a 95/96 XJ MC/Booster from his stash. Thank you Jim! I'm going to install it, then do some test driving with the rear load sensing valve in, and go from there.

As a follow up, I'd like to add that now after driving the truck around a bit, I am going to do the 95/96 XJ brake and master cylinder upgrade. The stock MJ unit doesn't push enough fluid for the more massive rear calipers. I could "get by" with it as is, but would rather perform the upgrade so I can take full advantage of rear disc brakes. I still have a working load sensing valve, so the plan is to leave it in place and use it to fine tune the pressure to the rears. After the XJ upgrade, I will test drive again and re-visit this decision.

Done deal. Not sure what all I need besides the booster and M.C. so if you know of anything else, i'll take them also. PM incoming.

I'm needing to upgrade my brakes, and need all the hardware shipped to me. Just seeing what's out there maybe.

I'm on both izook and zukicrawlers. That's why i'm not on here as much. :dunno:

They wanted attention. Be careful what you wish for.

Got a question... I'm not going to know if I can make it until the very last minute (long story blah, blah). So; if I show up in my Comanche with a tent, will it be a problem finding a camp spot for two days? (just me).

Yeah, I'll have to agree. This is my third one I've purchased, and never had any issues. They build them using the same parts as other leading brands, but much cheaper. Well, the shaft is installed, the spydertrax wheel spacers are installed, and all the other little details of my 8.8 axle swap is completed. Took Maura out for a test drive today, and I can tell the difference for sure running 3.55 ratio as opposed to the 3.08. lots of giddem up and go. My only outstanding issue now with the swap, is that I will need to upgrade the brake booster and master cylinder to accommodate the rear disc brakes now. The pedal doesn't get firm until almost to the floor. Just not pushing enough fluid. I figured that would be the case, but wanted to see first before purchasing parts. Next up, swap the front gear set to 3.55 and match the rear.

Millermatic 251 250 A at 28 VDC, 40% Duty Cycle 200 A at 28 VDC, 60% Duty Cycle Why do you ask?

Received my Tatton's drive shaft last night. Shouldn't be long now.

The old man I bought it from swore up and down he was getting 35mpg, but admitted he only drove it 45 mph. After driving it a bit I see why he never went over 45. The front left tire was 7 oz. out of balance, and was causing it to shake pretty badly. I installed two new tires up front and cured that. Driving around and not trying to save gas at all, I estimated my first tank at around 22mpg. That was all in town, and a lot of idling due to me working on the car trying to get things right. My feelings are that Samine would get a true 27mpg at best. If it had the original 205 tires, 28 or 29. I'll never know, because I sold Samine 3 days after I bought her. A friend offered me $1,000 more than I had in her. Happy trails Samine! I immediately went to another friends house who has a 1990 soft top model with A/C and F.I. and finally talked him into selling me the Bionic Woman! She was in the process of a new timing belt, idler, and cover, but otherwise is a decent rust free body. My reason for the virtual trade was for the soft top and F.I. mostly. Looking around at the parts suppliers, there is way more aftermarket support for a soft top model. I drove Samine II home last night, and I did notice a bit more power. I now need to purchase a new battery and four tires again... :doh: The saga continues.

Larry, Your post is kind of all over the place. Not sure exactly what you are asking. Have you read cruisers tips?

I raced a YZ250 when I was in my 20's. Now in my 50's I still ride. I have an IT250 and a TW200.

Really. How can you tell? I thought only 95 + were 31 splines, and I'm thinking I pulled a 94 or late 93 from the salvage yard. Could be wrong, as it was a couple years ago.

Side please.

As for the flares not going all the way to the bottom, I think that is a plus. I'd sure hate to rip one off on a rock. Besides, if you add any rocker protection such as a slider, then that area would get used, and the flares would look even more custom tailored. On Maura, I plan to U-pol Raptor that area, which will give the look of sliders until I get around to building/buying some.

Any idea what it says on the tailgate? Besides Jeep....

Are you ok with drilling new holes for the pocket style flares? If so, You can modify the Napier flares to do what you want. I went through this on Maura recently. I spoke with the tech at Napier, and he told me it can be done, but they had not tried it. The way the flares work, you can trim back the inner part of the flare instead of the metal. You won't notice it unless you were to stick your head up under the wheel well, you would see about an inch or so of metal. If you painted it black, it would be pretty un-noticeable IMO.

Are you aware that you can purchase a complete drop in HEI distributor for your engine? It will have two wires. One you provide it 12V when the key is on, and the other is for an optional tach. Could be a black ground wire, but usually they ground through the hold down clamp. The HEI distributor has the coil built into the cap, so you do away with all the wiring. Last one I purchased was less than $100. Do your research though, if you go this route. There are some Chinese knock-offs that have hardened drive gears that will eat up your camshaft. What I do, is to remove your gear from your old distributor, and swap it on to the HEI one. Now you have a matched set and no worries. With the HEI, you can widen your plug gap from the .028" range to the .035" range. This increased gap will boost your spark energy which is the same thing as a "hotter" spark. HEI drop in distributors are a bit harder to get dialed in, because the advance on them are designed for a GM engine. There are however a ton of write-ups on how to tweak them for an AMC. Sometimes you get lucky and they are close enough right out of the box, but usually the vacuum advance needs adjusted. Just a matter of a timing light and an allen wrench.