Biotex

TTT Still need some lowers.

I'm getting a little bit of wheel rub at full turn, and could use a set of the lowers. Thought I'd check on here first, if anyone has some, let me know.

Are those the 99 - 2004 WJ lowers?

Determine if the knock is due to a bearing, or is it a lifter tick or even possibly an exhaust leak. If it is a rod bearing, there isn't any additive or cleaning that will fix that. I'd start looking for a replacement motor, or plan to rebuild yours. Does the knock get worse as the engine warms up? If it is a bearing, it should be reasonably quiet when first started, then get louder as the engine warms. Just my .02 cents.

Just want to add that you should check your toe-in. Zero toe-in can be a trigger for DX. Start at 1/8", and play around with it a little and see if that helps.

Bringing this thread back from the dead because I've been driving with my brake light on ever since I swapped in the 8.8 rear end. All this time, all I had to do is press hard on the pedal... :doh: Hope I can save someone else from such embarrassment.

Tire balance is probably the number one cause of your wobble. Also check to see if maybe you bent a rim.

You can generally run a .040 to .045 gap if it is a GM motor and you have an HEI ignition. If it is an older ford or jeep running the motorcraft ignition module, I'd run .035 to .038. If it is the even older prestolite module. I'd run no more than .035. What happens, is the larger the gap, the more spark energy you have. This puts the load on the coil and the module. If you add a dedicated ground to the modules (the black wire) you can help protect the module. The E-core style ford coils can handle up to a .045 gap, and are a good upgrade over the canister oil filled coils. I have no experience with the renix era and newer plug gaps, as I'm 'old school'.

I just put in an 8.8 with 3.55 gears. With 235 tires, I'm turning 2500 rpms at 80 mph. I'm super happy with the low end as well. In fact, it is hard for me to take off in first without spinning the tires because the truck is so light in the back. Granted the tread on the tires is not agressive, but with 4.88's i bet you won't even use first gear.

Went back and re-read the original post, and you are correct. my brain interpreted "it doesn't blow" as "it doesn't blow cold". Sounds like the fan gave up. Good catch...

No need to retrofit with R12 replacement. It is compatible. Look for it on Amazon shopping. It is like $9 a can. I bought a case. It has the dye in already. This is just an option, not the only way to do it. You can put 134A in and take your chances. Probably will be fine for many years, no real way to tell. IMO the refrigerent I post above work as good as 134A. To answer your question, all indications are it is a leak based on your symptoms and my A/C tech experiences. Don't forget you will need an ultraviolet light to see the dye...

Sounds like a leak to me. The clue being that it got colder just before it went out. Evaporators do run colder when low on freon, even to the point of freezing up. Then it quits working due to the low pressure switch which is by design. You don't want the compressor sucking in air which introduces moisture into the system and causes further damage. I would purchase some of the R-12 substitute with a dye in it and get an ultraviolet flashlight. Repair the leak and charge back up. I use an R-12 replacement product that is essentially a propane. Works well enough, and is a bit cheaper. I'll look and see if I can post a link of the product. Edit: Enviro-SafeTM refrigerant can be used in all R-134a and R-12 Systems. The cans use the same thread and dimensions as the standard R-134a cans. Standard R-134a can taps can be used on this product. To install to an R-12 system you will either need to purchase the Enviro-SafeTM R-134a to R-12 can tap or use an R-12 to R-134a adapter on your low side service port. Note: I used the adapter purchased from NAPA.

Unfortunately no. I purchased another project, and have been consumed with it. Before I install the rollbar, I need to bedline. That is what is holding me up mostly. All the prep work! Sorry for being lazy...

Nothing noticeable IMO. Probably 1/4"

I think we all agree on that point, so how about you start? You have several corrections you can already make, then we can hash out the finer details as an ongoing project. I suggest you go to your first post, make the corrections, then let's see where we stand. :popcorn:

Ok, I'll play. My 90 Samurai. I needed to drain some water out after washing.

I had to remove the sway bar links to get mine out. To put longer ones in, I had to remove the track bar and lower control arms, so I did one side at a time. IMO it would be much easier with a spring compressor.

NOTE: To increase fuel pressure, turn adjustment screw inward. To decrease fuel pressure, turn adjustment screw outward. 4.0L MPFI 1) Remove cap from pressure test port in fuel rail. Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge to pressure fitting. Start vehicle. Pressure should be approximately 31 psi (2.7 kg/cm2 ) with vacuum hose connected to pressure regulator. 2) Pressure should be 39 psi (2.74 kg/cm2 ) with vacuum hose removed from regulator. If fuel pressure is not to specifications, check for kinks or restricting bends in fuel supply and return lines. Check fuel pump flow rate. Pump should deliver minimum of 1.06 quarts (one liter) of fuel per minute with fuel return line pinched off. 3) If flow is inadequate, check system for plugged fuel filter or filter sock. Fuel pump flow rate can be checked by connecting a hose to fuel test port on fuel rail and inserting other end in clean container. 4) To operate fuel pump, install a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Pinch off fuel return line to ensure that no fuel returns to fuel tank. If fuel pressure is still not to specifications and fuel flow is normal, replace regulator. IMO you have an electrical issue. Whatever is causing the fuseable link to melt is the problem. Since you kept blowing fuses, I'd venture to guess it is a direct short to ground. Look closely at your rear harness that feeds the pump.

Did you have good airflow over the condenser? Fans working?

Decide to once and for all find out what was causing the noise. I've been chasing this bearing noise for a while now. Turns out the right side unit bearing was bad. I pulled the old one out, and installed a used one I had on the shelf. Totally took care of the problem. The truck is so quiet now it makes it fun to drive again. Now the list is getting shorter: Bed-line the bed. Install roll bar. Install dual brake booster. Install cruise. Install A/C.

Found a bad passenger side unit bearing. Problem fixed!

I agree that Maura needs the later style unit bearing. What I'm having trouble with is can the later style assy. be tapered, or are they all roller bearings? Can anyone confirm they have used tapered on the newer style calipers?

Thanks for the link. I already knew I wanted the Timkens, but I'm worried if the 1990 can use the tapered ones.

In regards to this: The front hub/bearing units are usually serviced by replacement. The early (1984-1989) hubs use tapered bearings, while the newer hubs use ball bearings. When I look at the rockauto bearing/hub assembies. they have some cheapies for around $32, and the picture shows them to have ball bearings which according to the above statement fits my 90. The more expensive Timken ones are listed as tapered bearings, yet they show that they also fit my truck. I'd rather get the name brand Timken bearings even though they are twice the cost. Can anyone shed some light on this contradiction?

I don't have 1/4" aluminum plate just lying around. In fact, If you were to purchase some, how much would you have to buy, and at what price? See where I'm going?