Biotex

You guys crack me up! Just trying to give back to the community... Lots more stuff here: http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/

I just went back and saw this post. Sure makes me believe you need to clean some connections somewhere. Did you test for battery voltage at the I terminal wire at the relay with the key in start? If no voltage there, work your way backwards and you will find the problem.

Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds.

Thanks for clarifying that about the front flares. I didn't remember the fronts needed cutting, but now that you mentioned it, I do remember seeing that in the instructions I read many months ago. I will go and look at your build. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

The ignition terminal (I) on the solonoid and the Ground (G) terminal should have a resistence between the two of around 22 ohms with the wires disconnected. From either of those two terminals to the neg battery cable should read infinity on the meter. If none of the above, then the relay is bad. (or not grounded?). If the relay is good, with the Ground and ignition wires hooked back up, and the solonoid (SOL) wire disconnected, you should read battery voltage with the key in the start position. If not, then your ignition switch is bad or not adjusted correctly. One other option would be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector. All this assumes your NSS is operational.

I'd even like to see a close up shot of the area that doesn't quite fit right b/c i'm about to pull the trigger on a set of bushwkr's and can't decide which way to go. I'm planning a 31" tire size, and with my 4-1/2" lift i don't think I will have to do any cutting, so a flat flare appeals to me more than the cut out flare.

Dan, Choose your machine shop. Ask them how much for a rebuild kit. Ask them what brands they are going to use. Go online and shop those parts, and if the total is less than the machine shop, then ask them if they will price match. If it is just slightly less, then i'd leave it alone. You are better off using the machine shop supplied parts. It is an act of spending your money locally. Always a good option.

Think about it this way. You just assembled your engine, and it is all painted up nice and new etc... Then you start noticing a small drip under the engine at the bell housing. You soon realize you need to change out the RMS. So you have to purchase one along with a pan gasket. You just bought those seals twice... Now the oil is leaking at the harmonic balancer and spraying the bottom of your engine. You purchase a new front cover seal and timing cover gasket, water pump gasket etc... You just bought them all twice. Ok, so now you are all set right? You are driving along, and the engine starts running crappy. You come to realize you have a bad head gasket. Guess what? You get the idea? It's like buying tools. A lot cheaper to save up and do the job correctly the first time. Buy name brand gaskets, seals, rings and bearings. Just my .02

Here's mine: Before shot... Then cut out the rust. In hindsight, I would have cut away more than I did. Easier to weld in the patch panel with thicker metal. Weld patches. I did mine in 4 pieces. On the last one, I used a magnet to hold it in place. I also weld the panel on the back side of the original. I have tried welding in the panels flush, but am not good enough to keep the warping down. I fill the thickness of the metal in with fiber hair bondo. I leave the welds rough on purpose so it grabs the bondo better. When done, you can primer the back side with a spray can of inside frame coating applied with a 24" spray hose. Add bondo and urethane primer sealer. Then cut out all that work you just did when you add cutaway flares! :doh:

Ok, I thought you had, but was too lazy to go back through the threads and look.

Do you want an online version for free? There is one for an 88 that should be pretty darned close if not exact here: http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html

You could't sense my big grin?

Nice to have a rolling truck again I bet.... Looking good!

Those are copyrighted.... They would have to pay chrysler.

I got a kick out of this, so hope you don't mind me sharing it. When I was 14, I hoped that one day I would have a girlfriend. When I was 16 I got a girlfriend, but there was no passion, so I decided I needed a passionate girl with a zest for life. In college I dated a passionate girl, but she was too emotional. Everything was an emergency; she was a drama queen, cried all the time and threatened suicide. So I decided I needed a girl with stability. When I was 25 I found a very stable girl but she was boring. She was totally predictable and never got excited about anything. Life became so dull that I decided that I needed a girl with some excitement. When I was 28 I found an exciting girl, but I couldn't keep up with her. She rushed from one thing to another, never settling on anything. She did mad impetuous things and made me miserable as often as happy. She was great fun initially and very energetic, but directionless. So I decided to find girl with some real ambition. When I turned 30, I found a smart ambitious girl with her feet planted firmly on the ground, so I married her. She was so ambitious that she divorced me and took everything I owned. I am older and wiser now, and am looking for a girl with big breasts.

Really! I never heard of that before. So this doesn't show up on a tire machine? Also, what is the solution? You said you rebalanced your own, so what did you do differently?

The trick to a good kit is all in the brands of parts such as Melling and Felpro just to name a couple. Find out what brand gaskets they use, and then shop for price. Check out Summit Racing for decent prices and fast shipping. Also, i'm assuming you are going to use a machine shop??? Check with them on purchasing a kit. They usually only use the best if they care about their reputation.

Hi Elmer, When it comes to older Jeeps, we need replacement panels that are the same thickness as original metals. We are willing to pay a bit extra to have this. It is well known that most other countries do not produce steel as good a quality as US steel, so there is no substitute for thickness. You asked, so I told it to you as I see it.

X2 on spicer. If you are the type that regularly greases the joints, then the greasable ones are best. If you drive and neglect, then i'd advise the non greasable ones.

Agree on the grill. Jeeps just don't look good with a horizontal grill. Rest of the truck is sweet!

If you can't find any, let me know. I have a box of assorted brake parts. I have literally a lifetime supply. Many are NOS. Came from a dealership stock that I bought years ago. All sorts of different sizes and such, so i'd have to have measurements to find one that fits.

Welcome! 64 Plymouth Valiant was the first car I ever drove. Dad handed me the keys one day and said take it out into the pasture and learn how to drive. When you think your ready, take it out on the street. That was it. I was maybe 14 at that time, and drove 'ol blue' all over the place. I ended up purchasing a 66 valiant. Had push buttons for a shifter, and a slant 6 225 engine. I drove it for a long time, and finally passed it down to my younger brother. He started driving it at 14 also, until the cops shut him down. Anyways, lots of fond memories...

Sounds like wisdom coming from a man with lots of experience? :yes:

I purchased my front Rubicon Express 4.5" coils and R.E. adjustable track bar from mudflaps dot com. springs: $126.15 track bar: $73.31 Then I ordered this sway bar kit: ( I think it fits an F350 rear sway bar) It was a perfect fit for the lift. Mevotech Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit MK80036 Item # meMK80036.7580 for $26.52 Longer brake lines and longer shocks and the front is done. For the rear, I ordered the military wrapped 2" lift metric tonne springs from General Spring. $365.34 shipped Longer brake line, longer shocks, and the rear is done. The truck currently sits about 1" lower in the front, but that is with the tailgate and rear bumper still off. If I sit in the bed, it levels out. The ride is incredible. Just slightly stiffer than stock. Total cost: $591.32 plus the cost of shocks and brake lines. If you do a SOA in the rear, using your existing springs, you could bring that cost way down, and of course there are much cheaper ways to do the rear. I just wanted military wrapped springs to be different.

After looking a bit closer, I have seen thees fasteners before. They press in, then the center pin pushes in and spreads the back side wider. Here is a shot of them. I'm thinking they are reusable if I can pull up on the pin. If not, no reason to not use the other kind mentioned...