Biotex

A tip on making searches more user friendly Words with only 3 letters or numbers don't do well on most forum searches. For instance if you want to search for 2.5, that would be three characters and most likely ignored. If however you use a wildcard character of an asterik (*), and instead search for 2.5* then you will get more hits. So anytime you need to find a three character word, just add an * to the end of it. Hope this helps...

I was at a buddy's house the other day, and he showed me what was left of a fuel line on his antique harley (don't know the model or year, but it is very old). The rubber hose going to his carburator was melted and gooey. He said it was litteraly brand new, but had sat for a while without running. The ethanol dissolved the rubber. So much for my older holley carbs I have. They have rubber power valves that will more than likely not like ethanol either.

I especially like the bridge that ties into a flange off the pinion of the axle. Seems to me that would really beef up the future 4-link mounting surface. Probably to the point of overkill.

Heck yeah! Here is the one I thought about: http://www.artecindustries.com/88-MODULAR-truss_p_294.html

Looks like 5 x 4.5 to me.

MVUSSE is correct about welding the tubes. The 8.8 rear end is supposed to be around 20% stronger than a D44. As light as these Comanches are, and as narrow as the axles are, I also agree that a truss is a waste of money if you were to have to purchase one. But hey, they do look cool, and if you ever link the rear, then a truss makes more sense to me.

Yeah, the top hinge was good and tight after the new pin. The bottom one got only about 50% better, but enough so that the door closes nice and tight without slamming it shut. For the front half just needs a bit of rocker work and align the hood. Should go quite nice. Removing all the chrome and trim will be the worst of it IMO.

Looks like a whole front clip to me. But hey, not having to paint or pinstripe them? Heck yeah i'd pay $230.

I'm going with all Eastwood stuff. For the frame, i'm using POR-15 on the outside, for the inside, internal frame coating. For the sheetmetal, 3M rubberized undercoating. I may get two cans of the internal frame coating so I can use the 24" hose it comes with, and reach inside the wheel arches area. Be nice to get some coating in there after I acid etch it. Body work to start this week.

Yeah, and take lots of pictures because i have an 8.8 sitting in my shop ready to go in mine. I have the brackets also and only reason I haven't started on it is because I can't decide if i want SOA or not. The larger tubes and SOA must net 6 to 7" of lift, then those military wrapped springs on the way another 1.5 to 2". Just not sure i could keep it driveable on the highway. Anyways, sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread. Does your 8.8 have discs? Mine does, and that also worries me a bit. Might lock up the rears too easily unless running 33's.

Today I replaced the driver side door hinge pins. It made a huge difference. Now I don't have to lift up on the door to close it. $19 total cost. Below you can see that I used a punch to drive the old pin out with the new pin taking its place. For the bottom hinge, I had to pound upwards, but for the top pin I could pound down. Wasn't too difficult.

The Euramtec lights come with a bezel. If you install the bezel, you will need to open up the trim hole just a tad. Makes for a nice fit. If you don't use the bezel, the light will still snap into the hole, but will be a loose fit and you will have a very slight gap. Not anything objectionable.

White smoke is generaly associated with water getting into the combustion chamber. Keep an eye on your oil for any water intrusion. Keep an eye on your radiator to see if any oil is getting in. Black smoke is unburned fuel IE running rich. Blue smoke is burning oil. Tighten the connection, or replace the donut to get rid of the leak if it doesn't go away once the engine is hot. You could have just gotten some oil or fuel on the outside of the manifold when you were working on the injectors.

So EP, have you got Georga torn down yet? Time is a wastin.... Congrats! I'm spending half my time adding on to my shop, and the other half doing work on Maura.

So you primed the owner for the deal! Nice teamwork...

2) Is there possibly a better manufacturer of oil pumps as standard for this engine? Answer: For the oil pump, I like Melling brand. Summit Racing Part Number: MEL-M81A It is around $75. I always use high volume, standard pressure.

Just an FYI: Engine oils contain anti-wear additives such as ZDDP (Zinc dialyldithiophosphate). These additives deposit a thin layer on high wear surfaces such as the cam lobes. These additives get depleted as you run the engine. Point being, IMO 5,000 miles is pushing the limit for these older engines that need the anti-wear additives more so than their modern counterparts. Our flat tappet engines run higher valve spring pressures than the newer overhead multicamed engines, so just be advised that you should not neglect your oil changes, and to chose an oil specifically fomulated for our flat tappet engines.

Oh, I steam cleaned everything already, but getting too dark for pictures.

Removed the bed today. Came off pretty easy really. I will undercoat everything before reassembly and paint. Dropping the tank with it full, by myself, was no fun.

The CJ10 was export only. The CJ10-A was for aircraft tug use. Came with a Dana 70U in the rear with a 2,000 lb weight welded to the frame. I have never seen one set up as a dually though. Those tugs wer built in the Mexico factory and used a Cherokee frame shortened. Engine was a Nissan SD-33 turbo or N/A. Chrysler 727 Auto tranny with a transfer case locked in low. You can purchase a sector shaft and make them shiftable. IIRC it was an NP208. Also, I think they only were made for around 4 years.

While I agree that frams are probably the worst filter to use, I was referring to the cardboard end caps they were using a few years ago. I have not taken one apart to verify this, but was told they upgraded that part of the filter. The rest is still crap... You can do a quick search for fram filter quality problems, and you will never run a fram again. And yes, how can you knowingly support a company that puts out poor quality KNOWINGLY? I can't. I'll edit my previous post as it is mis stated.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to install a mechanical oil pressure guage so you can see what is really going on. On my TJ, I screwed in a "T" fitting where the sender is, and added the mechanical guage. I just had it loose in the cab for a few days until I knew how my electric guage related to the real pressure. Could be you are getting wierd readings due to a bad electric connection, bad sender, plugged passages. Once you know your true pressure, you can then know if your in need of pulling your pan to diagnose. Agree with Cruiser on that fram filter. Although they have corrected their previous quality issues, still there are better options out there as he named a few. Might try switching to a higher detergent oil made for older engines. Will slowly clean out any sludge that may be causing your lifter to not fully pump up. Frequent oil changes will also help.

Did you install a new gasket when you bolted back the exhaust manifold? Bet some of the tick is related to a leak.. Now, I gotta ask. How on earth does an exhaust manifold just fall off the engine without some prior indication? I would think there would be a leak before it just falls off. What's the whole story?

I'll bet it is no fun when they get mud inside those spokes. Regular tires would throw it off eventually, but bet those spoke would hold enough to cause balance issues.