Biotex

I bought one of those tugs a couple of years ago. I purchased a junker Wagoneer for the axles, and a junker YJ for the bed. I had about $5k invested when I finished, but had a really cool diesel Jeep when it was over with. I ran 35's, and that thing would run 80mph all day long. Stabe too. No road wander at all. I sold it to a friend for $5K and he DD's it. I had a set of soft doors and the hard doors, but was more fun with no doors.

Are the bulbs good? See if you are getting power to the sockets. Make sure you have a good flasher. Wiggle the hazzard switch some. They get in between settings sometimes and it messes with the signals.

The MPG lost is so negligable you don't have to even consider it. The factory went that way on all the newer jeeps. I look at it that everything gets lubricated better. Not sure it is true or not, but I like to think of it that way. Kind of like flat towing where you put it in gear so the oil gets splashed around. Like I said, maybe thats not the case on a front diff, but I havent seen any negatives to locking the CAD.

I posted a link to a copy I'm hosting on my website over in the DIY section http://comancheclub.com/topic/36875-get-your-copy-of-the-renix-fi-fuel-injection-manual-here/ Grab a copy for yourselves please.

I'm hosting this on my personal website, and I hope it works. Just go to File/Save As and download it in .pdf format to your own computer. Let me know if you have problems, and do enjoy! Eric admin edit: scroll down to the last post for the updated link.

I would go with a 7.3L Turbo diesel. I make biodiesel and run it in my 97 F250 at $1/gal. I can't even begin to imagine how hard it would be, but I'd like to have one.

As for the turn signals, first verify the correct bulbs are installed into the rear sockets. Be advised that the grounds are usually bad on these trucks and can cause havok. So start there also. Make sure the sockets are good. Thay can be bought new fairly cheaply at NAPA.

I agree with the above^. When you are rock crawling, you want a harder material to hold the engine in place so the fan doesn't crunch your radiator or whatever. The weight of the engine shifting all around when at extreme angles and such will destroy stock rubber mounts. Enter the aftermarket poly mounts. They hold the engine in place nicely, but there is a price to pay. Vibrations will transfer easier through the poly vs. rubber. How much vibration are we talking about? Not alot, but enough that you can notice. It's your money, spend it how you like, but you asked. IMO it is a waste of money for a DD.

Gotta love the treasure hunt! Sounds like you scored!

That's why I said " best to start with a bare block" before I mentioned oven cleaner. Oven cleaner won't hurt a bare block and I find is a pretty darned good degreaser. You don't want purple power to touch bearings either do you? But I'm glad you re-emphasized the point. Sometimes stuff we think as common sense knowledge isn't and so it is worth emphasizing.

The manual I posted above says to press on the plastic part. Yours looks like you need to slide that metal clip shown in your first photo outwards. it is like a c-clip I believe.

I retired as a software engineer a few years ago. We were asked to learn a new language about every couple of months or so. They would send you to a 3 day class, and when you came out you were expected to code like it was your only purpose in life. I was on a project team that dealt with millions of lines of code for a very large company, and after learning about 10 different languages, I decided my brain was as full as it was ever going to get, so I retired at 50. I'm sooo happy to be able to play with Jeeps! BTW, never heard of Python until now. The last one I remember learning was C# (C-sharp).

Me thinks that it is a bad o-ring. Try disconnecting, and clean or replace those o-rings, and reconnect. The locking clip might need replaced if they are rusted and not holding properly.

Another member saw my wanted parts ad and sold me all the parts to add cruise. I'll do a step by step once I get the parts and my truck together.

I'm confused by your question. Is the block going to be bare or not? If bare, then pretty much anything goes. If you have the crank installed with the bearings, then you really don't want to get dirty anything splashing around. Best to start with a bare block. Oven cleaner is cheap and works good with hot water.

Thought I would add some diagrams so we are all on the same page when talking about the parts needed to add cruise.

I have done the research and know all the parts I need. I'm ready to spend the money, just need someone to sell the parts please. Upper cable speed control generator Lower cable Regulator (computer) wiring harness Any brake or clutch switches The lever in the column Vacuum tank with harness and all brackets in the engine compartment Please let me know if you have these parts and want to ship them on my dime.

Anyone tried repairing one? I have a good friend who is a retired electonics repair nerd who i could probably get to attempt a repair if you want. Probably a dead end, but perhaps not.

My wife is wanting a fully loaded FJ cruiser, 4-runner limited or possibly a land cruiser brand new or slightly used. If you come accross a good deal and can ship it to West Texas, let me know. She's been driving my Rubicon until she finds one. She's falling in love with the rubi, and that scares me.

PM sent.

I may be mistaken, but the chip'd keys are gray, and the rest are black.

Congratulation on the new career. Now we can all get the "inside" scoop huh? :rotfl2:

That sounds perfect to me Joe. A 3/2 with an extra 1/2" of arch and a military wrap. Perfect...

Here's mine After I added the stinger. All metal cloaked.