Biotex

I'd have to agree^

I'm reading they should hit the market in August. Maybe they are there!

Made in the USA (SC) by Michelin. The rims flex. No more flats. Google Resilient Tech for more info. I'm wondering how they would ride off-road???

I'm going to suggest an easy way, but will admit it wouldnt be the way I would do it. Since it is going to be covered up with bedliner, you could install rivets that are flush or close to it. Once the rivet in in, you can take a file and hit the high points a bit, and then just add a little thicker bed liner over them. Probably won't work on holes very large, as the bigger rivets stick up higher.

I'm looking into installing a set of flat fender Bushwacker flares on Maura. I saw on Ryans bild where he bought a set, and then sold them because of fittment issues. I e-mailed Rocky Road Outfitters about them fitting the Comanche, and here is their reply: "We haven't tried putting the flat flares on a Commanche. They should work because the Commanche has the same rear wheel well as the 2 door Cherokee and the Flat Style flares are the same for 2 and 4 door Cherokees. They do not require cutting any sheet metal on a Cherokee, but they might require drilling some holes through the fenders." So, not sure why they wouldn't fit correctly, but I would trust Ryans advice more than the vendor. Anyone have some flat fender rear flares installed from BW and care to comment on the fittment?

I do all my own body work and paint. I'm pouring a foundation right now to add on to my shop. Just so happens it will be the perfect size for a paint room.

I'm not into sand rails, but a fiberglass Tbucket might be cool. I will have it on my trailer in 3 weeks and will get some pictures up then.

I'm about to remove mine for paint. Anyone have a tip how not to destroy them? Is there a special tool, or what? Sorry for the hijack...

Thank you! I wish I could take credit for the interior, but nope... He did it^^^^ :D

Curious who you purchased them from. Sounds like they have decent customer service at least.

Removed the cab vent and tailights. I talked with an engineer for the company that makes replacement door hinge pins. He specializes in Chrysler cars, so he told me that is is unlikely that the hinge itself would be worn where the pin goes through. The new pins ar only $12.95 a set. so I ordered them. He also gave me a tip on removing the old ones. Said to use the new pin to drive the old one out, and it will just take its place. Sounds easy enough, and i won't have to take the door off. BTW, my welds are fine. No movement there. Just at the hinge pins. Also removed the emblems That's it for now

Good question. I suppose I could save my self some heartache and money if I were to make a decision. After seein and riding in Ryans Comanche, I was H<ll bent on a Clayton longa arm, ACOS, disco's, BW flares etc... But, being realistic, I have a maxed out Rubicon for any cofortable off road stuff, and a dedicated rock buggy for the rest. I don't need that kind of clearance, and I certainly don't want to have to upgrade the axles right off. So, I'm on the list for a set of military wrapped rear springs that once installed should net me an inch or two of lift. Once I figure that out, I will lift the front to match. Perhaps the ACOS to even it out. I'm one for upgrading the steering parts, so most likely the ZJ V8 route there. For tires, Either a 235 or a 30" which ever is larger. I believe the 30" tire is a touch larger. If I lose too much power, due to the gearing, then I would like to look into a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes. They are cheap and easy to find with 3.55 gearing. I think they are about one inch narrower, but will investigate that when and if the time comes. If I have to swap the rear, and regear the front, then I'm going to have to rethink the whole project. Do I really need larger tires with a 1 or 2" lift??? I'm sure you all have gone through this thought process many times. For now, I'm going to prep for paint, bedline with U-Pol Raptor and repair the leaking front output seal. After those two things have been completed, the rest is easy and fun stuff.

A buddy of mine is into restoring model A's, T's etc... He found a rust free body someone had put on a Datsun frame and has a brand new pinto engine and freshly rebuilt auto tranny mounted. The datsun frame is all painted up real nice, so is the engine. My friend only wants the body, and offered me the rolling chasis for $200 if I help him remove the tub. (figure two hours max). Now, the frame has independent front suspension, so I guess it was a popular choice for replica Tbucket or something. For $200, I'm finding it real hard to pass on. Some thoughts of running a generator, or a pump, sand blaster, etc... come to mind. What would you do with it?

2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT http://comancheclub.com/topic/25441-02-grand-am-gt-2-dr-seats-in-a-comanche-with-pics/page__hl__grand

Hmm! I'm thinking of swapping it for a black one myself. I'm not a fan of woodgrain.

After removing the loose stuff" Then cutting out the rust: And then tacking in some new metal: I sprayed ospho inside before shutting it up. I think in the desert climate I live, it will be good for many years. I will go back and weld shut all the pinholes before applying a fiber hair bondo. Maybe AllMetal would be a good choice.

Got started on the wheel well arches. Here is after removing the flares:

So, today I took off the rear bumper. It needed a bit of straightening, so I made a jig and used a hydraulic jack to get the worst of it out. Had a bed liner inside, but I took it out. I will spray some U-pol Raptor instead. After the paint of course. Bed is in nice shape. Good surprise.

I suppose a little background info is in order. I had an 88 2wd that I was just about to convert to 4wd. After running the numbers, I realized I could sell the 88 and purchase a later model 4wd ready to go, and come out money ahead. Didn't take but about a week to find Maura. Maura was named for an ex-girlfiend by the previous owner, and i'm keeping the name because i have some very fond memories of an ex-girlfiend named Maura. Of course wifey doesn't know this. I just told her that was her name, so might as well keep it. :crossfingers: Maura is in NC, and i'm in far west TX, so I start asking around and find a good friend who is going to be right next door, but in two months. He is willing to drive her back, as long as i pay expenses. Cool deal I figure. I'm not worried about breaking down too much because Maura only has 400 miles on a brand new engine. I looked over the build thread from all the work previously done, and am happy and satisfied that she has a clean bill of health. So a couple of weeks go by, and i'm literaly going nuts trying to figure a way to get Maura sooner. I checked every mode of transportation available, and am just about to give up when I get called to Florida due to a death in the family. It is over a thousand dollars per person to fly round trip, so I decided to fly to NC and drive Maura back myself. :clapping: The 1500 mile trip was for the most part uneventfull, but it did afford me the opportunity to meet Ryan and his sweet cherokee. I'm going to definately steal some of his ideas. Ok, so fast forward to once Maura is sitting in my shop. Everything under the hood is pretty much like new, so nothing really needed there for the time being. The interior is also to my liking. Would be nice to someday upgrade to an XJ all power interior, but I do like it the way it is. It is clean and simple. So for now I am going to consentrate on the exterior. The plan is to repair the rusted wheel well arches, and prep for paint. Not sure what color yet.

Try again. I just forgot to add it to the list.

Hey Ryan, Just re-read your build so I could find the part about installing the BW flares. I had forgotten that you first tried the flat flares, then went with the cut-out pocket flares. I'm curious as to what you didn't like about the flat ones. Was it the fitment? Or looks? I'm trying to decide which way to go myself.

Do you know of a place to purchase just the wheel arch areas? I am going to install those, but first need to kill the rust and to give the flares something to hold on to... I just read the install instructions for the flares. Doesn't appear to me that any metal gets cut from the top of the arches where my rust is. Am I wrong?

Any recomendations to repair this? I have a mig welder. I could cut some of the rusted edge out, and perhaps slip a piece of new metal behind and tack it in, but the seam is right at the fold in the metal. I looked, and didn't see any replacement wheel arches out there. Maybe i'm looking in the wrong places. Any suggestions?

I checked out the team cherokee site. Seems I can get a set of the rear hinges for $65. So the rear ones will fit the fronts? Why the price difference then? Some slight mod needed?

That is exactly what i'm hoping to purchase by posting this WTB ad. I have no physical access to salvage parts in my area.