Biotex

Can't wait for warmer and less windy weather. I bought undercoating for the underside of the bed. That should complete my rust proofing of the truck.

POR-15'd the outside of the frame, and zinc chromate primer on the inside.

I purchased the Eastwood interior frame coating system, and tried it out today. I wasn't really expecting anything earth-shattering, but boy was I surprised! This is inside my frame after powerwashing and blowing out the debris with compressed air. I let it dry for a week after the washing... This is after a quick spray down with the Eastwood product: The green is the zinc chromate primer that does wonders for killing rust. It is what is used inside aircraft wings and such. I'm sure many of you know the benefits of zinc chromate primers. Note: The kit comes with a very small hose 24" long that has a conical spray nozzle on the end. There are plenty of holes in the frame to get 100% coverage. One can will do the entire under bed frame area. This system doesn't spray like a conventional spray can. The liquid comes out fast and with a lot of pressure, so you don't want to keep the tip stationary for very long This is the only part of the frame inside I could take pictures of, but I imagine the rest of the frame looks the same. This is with the rear bumper off and looking forward. I also POR 15 the outside, but you all have seen that before. I'm sure others have done this before, but I thought it was the best $20 I've spent in a long time.

Having trouble figuring out what this part is. It is mounted on the inner fender beneath and outside of the radiator overflow bottle. It has an electrical connection and a vacuum hose attached. I suspect it has to do with the CAD system perhaps? The black with yellow tracer wire is disconnected. So is the black with red tracer. The two look like they should be connected together. Yes/No? 1990 MJ

Yeah, the pUrlins will be 8" either ZEE or CEE on the roof as well. We get 60mph gusts frequently, so I always engineer to a minimum of 90mph wind load. Once the structure is up and sealed, and before it gets dusty or dirty, i'm going to use it to paint Maura in. A buddy has a professional paint booth inside his garage, but being in the city limits, some neighbors ratted him out and the code police shut him down. I'm in the county! I'll be spraying a single stage acrylic urethane, but will probably mix in a bit of clear on the final coat for added hardness and shine.

Frozen ground? :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: I'm playing golf today in 70°F weather.

I've been looking into this a bit more, and have found some more ideas, but the cost of the square U-bolts would be around $40 plus shipping. I did figure out a way to use 5/8" grade 8 bolts instead. Not sure I would save any money, but it would be an option. So here are some more pictures of possibilities: This is it installed I didn't really like this one at first, but it's simplicity is growing on me.

I've done it many times. Thanks! On the two corners that tie in to the existing shop, there are I beams that will be used to tie in the add on. The footing there was dug out larger. The outside corners of the add on will get enlarged a bit, and as for the soil, it is too hard to dig without a pry bar or pick. The footing is down to the hard pan. Like concrete... The framing will be all 8" perlins.

That utility bed looks like a chuck box to me! :idea: Install slide out components like a stove... Plenty of room for spare parts... Tools... I love it! Great tow rig for the red one seeing you are in CO.

It's coming along nicely. I'm doing most of the work myself, so it is slow. I'm just about ready for concrete. I'm debating using fibered cement so I can save from having to install steel. Rebar in the footings for sure, maybe just wire mesh in the slab. Still deciding... I'm going to install some anchors in the cement so I can hook chains to in case I need to straighten a bumper or tweek a frame. Size of the addition is 12' x 20' added on to a 20' x 40' existing.

Link worked for me. Here is their product: What i'm seeing though is that the fancy plate that would be under the springs is nice, but its complexity makes it too expensive to purchase, or too hard to make for most. The flat plate with a hole drilled for the sentering pin nut to fit inside is easy enough, then there is a machined groove for the u-bolts. That could be re-engineered if you don't want to pay for a machine shop to cut in. Thanks for the link.

Exactly! As cheap as it is to fab your own flip kit I was just wondering why more SUA guys on here don't do it. What I'm thinking is that since I just added 1.5" of spring lift with my new rear springs, now my shocks are too short. If I flip and reverse the OEM spring plates, I could still use my old shocks. The money I save would pay for the flip kit and i'd be benefitted by better G.C.

I'm not in the process of doing this, just contemplating ways to get ground clearance and stay SUA. Lots of rocks to snag the OEM setup.

Happened to me once. I put it in low/low and crawled. Every once in a while someone would cut in front and mess up your timing, but definately cuts down on your clutching. I fixed that issue though.... Moved to a town with no stop lights. :rotfl2:

i'm thinking of making my own something on these lines: I think I would weld a spring perch on top just like if you were doing a SOA. I also could use a spring plate already in production in the aftermarket sector, so no need for any plasma cutting. A set of square u-bolts would take care of the bottom end. Maybe need a groove machined in the bottom of that plate. Flip the centering pin upside down and weld on shock mount tab to the axle tube and call it good. What do you think?

X2. I drilled a 9/16" hole and the pin fit right in. You want a tight fit.

Couple of things to keep in mind. If you are daily driving your truck, you will want to have this worked out ahead of time. Some of this only applies to those with OEM springs and perches. Have a 9/16" metal drill bit ready. ( to drill out the perch centering hole to accomodate the larger pin on the new springs) Expect to have to purchase longer shocks. Mine lifted only 1 1/2" and my shocks won't extend far enough. Also at full droop you don't want the shock to be the limiting factor. You will most likely also need a longer brake line to the rear proportioning valve. The bolts that got through the spring eyes if original will be rusty and you may have to cut them out with a saw or grinder. Might want to think about 4 new ones and nuts to go along. They are 9/16" x 5" long grade 8 bolts. The originals are metric 9.8, but the 9/16" standards fit the new eye bushings much tighter. The standard bolts are just a tad larger, and a perfect fit all the way around. Better to have this stuff ready to go. That's all I can think of at the moment.

Got the military wrapped springs installed today. Joe from General Spring Co. gave us a great deal on a group buy. They ended up lifting Maura 1 1/2". See this thread for more info on this. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/

Just wanted to point out for those asking about the spring rate. I put the new one on the driver side, and with the old one on the pass side, with the shocks disconnected, I cycled the springs. I could not tell any difference in the two sides. My OEM springs are 3(1). Shipping was $65 from General Spring to far West Texas. I am 100% satisfied with the product.

Here is some eye candy of the finished product.

Thanks for that excellent link. Answered all my questions and some. BTW nice mod on your lever!

You've seen Pawn stars huh! Hit them with a lowball offer, and meet somewhere in the middle. Most people like to think they got a good deal. I wouldn't hold it against people (especialy fellow jeepers) for trying to save a few bucks. Just be polite and refuse the offer, but at least counter it with your bottom dollar. Just my .02

Curious what you guys do with the proportioning valve lever when you lift the rear. Looks to me like you could unbolt the diff housing bracket and move it up a couple of bolts, or lengthen the arm. Another option I see is to just remove the arm and fix the lever in a happy medium position. seems like at full droop, that arm would get ripped off with any flex at all. Anyone?

More than likely it was ethanol in the fuel that turned the rubber to goo.

Where did you get your dash pad? I'm needing one...