Biotex

Found the problem! The lip on the retainer seal had been folded back on to itself. I ordered a new seal, and a speedi-sleeve since the shaft was pitted. It mic'd out to 1.260" which is perfect, but the pitting would eventually prematurely wear out the new seal. I feel better about the situation now.

It works good on old Willys trucks though. I have one nearly identical. Bolts to the wheel studs and pops those drums right off. Works on my old IH scouts also.

Interesting idea. You think it would show the leak doing it that way?

I just ordered the new parts: 1990 JEEP COMANCHE 4.0L 242cid L6 TIMKEN 223253 Input Shaft Seal $ 8.09 TIMKEN KWK99128 Input Shaft Repair Sleeve $ 16.74 Shipping First Class Mail $ 1.90 Order Total $ 26.73 I will take it apart tomorrow and mic it out to see what's going on. Sure hoping I don't need a new front bearing also. It feels pretty tight side to side movement that is. I was thinking perhaps the wrong seal was used, but that doesn't appear to be the case since they are the same part number external slave same as internal slave. Still a chance the seal is in backwards, but probably not the case since the PO remebered putting it in correctly. I know it is confusing which way they go, so I'll know tomorrow.

I drove the truck 1600 miles on the interstate, and not one drop of oil was missing from the crankcase. I did however have to add transmission fluid twice, for a total of three quarts. So I parked the truck and just now got around to removing the transmission. What surprised me is that the brand new clutch and pressure plate had zero oil anywhere to be found. I figured there would be oil all over the inside of the bell housing also, but not the case. It seems to me that the oil must dribble or drip out of the open end of the bearing retainer and drop through the clutch and get splattered everywhere. I very puzzled as to how the oil can find its way to the bottom of the bell housing without coating everything inside. I'm 99% certain the bearing retainer itself is not leaking since there was a nice bead of brand new rtv all the way around, and when I wiped my finger at the bottom area, it was dry. The clutch slave is an external one, so the bearing retainer and seal were just replaced prior to my 1600 mile trip. I inspected the retainer for cracks, and none found. My best guess is that the input bearing is worn, and causing the shaft to wobble enough to elongate the new bearing and cause the leaking. The pilot bearing is the roller type, and brand new. Only other thing I can think of is the input shaft perhaps grooved and needing a speedy sleeve, but I have not disassembled the retainer yet. Wanted to get on here and get some opinions first. What are the possibilities of where this tranny fluid is coming from? The drip is at the bellhousing to engine mating surface. In the picture, you can see traces of oil on the retainer bolt heads. The front of the retainer was dry though. Could the oil be coming from those bolts? Needs thread sealant perhaps? Ony other traces of oil were inside the throwout bearing, which puts me back towards leaning to a bad seal. I'm just not sure. I'd really hate to put this thing back together and still have the leak...

Pulled the transmission and transfer case today. Have to find the leak. Pretty sure it is the input shaft seal that goes inside the bearing retainer. I did the job by myself, so anybody that has done this knows what I just went through. What a pain in the AZZ! I didn't think I was ever going to get those two top bolts off. Thankfully the PO replaced them with hex head bolts, or I would have probably just cut a hole in the firewall to get to them. I still have all my fingers and toes, but dang near knocked out a front tooth. I was bulling up on the gear shift lever after I rotated the retainer, and the lever jumped out and caught me in the tooth. it's not loose, but sore as heck. Guess I must have been straining and gritting my teeth cause it didn't get my lips or I'm sure they would be puffy and bleading. How embarrassing that would have a bloody and fat lip from a girl! So here is the tranny after I removed it. And here it is after a steam bath: Makes me want to paint it!

Worth the money or waste?

My buddy just installed one from NAPA. It came with the sock and was almost a bolt on direct fit. Couple of issues. the o-ring to seal the tank back up was too thick, so he ended up using the original one. He had to use a dremel to reshape a part that keeps the pump from spinning in the part that holds it in place. Very minor things. His old pump was only making 18 psi, the new one fixed it.

I'm storing a CJ project for a guy from California whom I've never met other than on the forum, but he got stationed in Japan for three years. I donated a covered shed and am happy to help out our servicemen and women. We did a member to member handoff as you suggested, and I met the final leg driver in El Paso and trailered the rig 200 miles more East to my house where it is stored for the duration. So, it is certainly possible to get your Comanche to your new home. Count me in for the West Texas leg if needed.

I keep adding on to my shop as I need more room. The current add on is on the back side of the shop, and hidden from view unless you physically walk around there. It took wifey two weeks to ask what I was doing out there. By that time I had already completed the footing and forming.

With those AGM batteries, you could go offroad! COOL! JK!

I was checking prices on some front coils to even out the front, and I found some Rubicon Express 4.5" lift springs for $76 with free shipping. I jumped on that deal, and just now realized i'm headed down the path... Shocks and brake lines are already ordered. sway bar links, adjustable lowers, trac-bar , anything else????? Should I give in now and order the long arm upgrade? :doh:

Here is how it starts: You purchase Comanche #1 because it's a Jeep, and you don't see many around. The price is right, and your thinking cool! I can fix that for a couple hundred bucks and have a nice DD/trail rig... After a few days of sourcing the various parts, you quickly realize that it will be much cheaper to just purchase a parts vehicle, and you can sell off what's left. Once Comanche #2 is home, you start in on it, but quickly realize that it wouldn't take that much to get it back on the road. You just need a welder and some more tools. You were looking for an excuse to purchase that MIG anyway, so with that tax refund coming any day now, you decide it was meant to be. So now you are getting pretty knowledgeable about Comanches, so you are able to hold your own in conversations. A friend tells you about one he saw out in a field, and it looks like it could be had cheap. Great, now you have peer pressure. Ok, but maybe you could still get it just for the parts you still need for Comanche #1... So now Comanche #3 is home, but you find you have no room for it. The solution is to add on to your shop! You've been wanting to for years. Besides, isn't that what that bonus from work was meant for? So now the wifey starts in on you about why you have 3 "cars" and none of them running... blah, blah... To save face, you start looking for something to sell so you can purchase the parts for Comanche #1 and get it on the road, because heaven forbid you spend any more money on "junk" , but the whole time your convinced you can still use #3 to fix #2. You start taking #3 apart and every nut an bolt is so rusted and fighting you, that you decide it is easier to just buy those parts you need. You are now driving Comanche #1, and you decide you need better gearing and you want to lift it. Comanche #2 is still needing parts, so you can justify spending more on #1 to upgrade the suspension than you paid for the entire truck. Oh, and you can finally get #2 on the road! So now You got #1 all lifted with bigger tires, looking good and turning heads. Darn'd, what happened to my gas mileage? That tired old engine needs more power! You do some research and decide a HO 4.0L is the ticket. Wasn't there a 98 Cherokee for sale just down the block?

Truck is still apart for paint, so unable to test drive, but based on feel alone I would have to completely agree with hornbrods findings. What I did was to remove the shocks, and with the new springs only on one side, and the factory 3/1 on the other side, bed removed, I bounced the truck. I tried to get a feel of the spring rate so I could report back to those worrying it would be stiffer. I was not able to tell any difference while trying to compress each side. From what I could tell, these springs should ride exactly the same until the 2 overload springs come into play. Before I installed the new springs, I measured using these specs: Rear: ------ Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop. For 2WD models the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2" I accertained that my old springs were not sagging at all, as they were within the tolerances listed above. I believe this is why I only netted 1.5" of lift. In a SOA configuration, one could remove the bottom overload spring, and it would lower the lift by its thickness (1/4" IIRC). You would still benefit from the military wrap which is what I was after from the start. Hope this helps...

I have a sliding window on the North, and one on the South. Nothing on the west. When I built the shop, I knew the winds were out of the west, so I didnt put any openings on that side thinking I would out-smart mother nature. When I open one of those windows, it does help, but I can't leave them open or the shop fill with dust anyways. Would a gable style vent at the highest point on the west face pressurize the shop and keep stuff out, or would it just let more dust in through the screen??? I was thinking on the lines of sheet metal wings to disrupt the air, but can't figure out how to angle them. Kind of like the fence that was mentioned. I suppose I can wait until the addition is finished and see how it does then.

Thanks so much for posting that. I was recently looking at axles shafts to do away with the two piece one, and like the idea of running CV's

I agree a ground plane is better when talking about a zinc annode being sacrificial. The word annode implies a negative ground. But what about aircraft? Zinc in primers been used since the 40's and is still the choice primer today for aluminum. No ground plane there. For weight savings, only the primer is used on the inside of wings, fuselages etc... They don't corrode. Yes it's aluminum, but we've all seen aluminum corrode. The key to this is to encapsulate the rust. No moisture getting to the metal goes a long way towards preventing corrosion. For $20 i'll be happy to stick that little straw in all the drainage holes on my frame and pess the button. Even if it is once every couple of years. It would be worth drilling a tiny hole in the rockers, spraying them, then silicone up the hole until the next coating.

See post #94

Not what I wanted to hear. :doh: Perhaps once my addition is completed, and the building is Ell shaped it may help. I'd love to have some evergreens, but by the time they grow i'll have forgotten how to spell "shop".

2 cans would do the entire truck. I used one can for the whole back section under the bed. Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion 24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in to spray coating in a radial pattern for complete coverage Covers 10 sq. ft. per can Fully cures in 24 hours

Sometimes gaskets weren't used from the factory. I've torn down several engines, mostly Fords that didn't have any. Edit: I just looked in my factory parts book for my TJ, and there is a part number listed for that gasket. 12 J3172332 1 ER0 GASKET, Oil Pump Maybe it would be worth a call to the dealer.

I wouldn't use RTV on my engine. If one tiny spec breaks loose, it can lodge inside an oil gallery and block flow. If you decide this is the only way, then please use the thinnest film you can.

Ok, I shouldn't have used the term " kill rust". I was refering to the killing rust as in stopping it from happening. The product prevents rust from starting by letting the zinc become the sacraficial metal. Same principle boat engines (transoms?) use with a zinc metal block attached. Hot water heaters have a zinc annode inside for the same reasons. So a primer or paint with zinc in it will prevent future rust in this way. Any existing corrosion will still be there since you can't undo it, but you are preventing its spread. In my mind it kills it... Edit: I looked up the MSDS sheet for it, and it is listed as a zinc phosphate not a chromate. Does the same thing though. Corrosion control... Well worth the effort IMO.

Problem: The overhead door on my shop faces east. The prevailing winds are out of the west. Dust and dirt swirls around the sides of the building, and all the debris settles in front of my shop door. If I roll the door up, it comes inside making it impossible to keep clean. Is there a simple or perhaps inexpensive solution. Such as wings on the north and south corners of the building to divert or break up the swirling effect? I searched online, but nothing jumps out.

Ok, so that helped me find it in the wiring diagram in the FSM. So this would explain why the 4wd indicator lamp is inop? The CAD is currently disconnected, and it is my intent to leave it that way. If I'm reading it correctly, to make the light work again, I would need to hook back up the vacuum lines coming out of the switch on the TC, bypass the lines that would normally move the fork, and trick the solonoid into thinking the CAD is doing its job. Am I correct that the switch needs a vacuum before it will make the light? If so, then I should be able to figure a way to get a vacuum to the switch when in 4wd. All the parts are still installed, just the vacuum lines are disconnected from the various pieces.