Biotex

I'll check them out. Thanks.

Yup, went out and looked. The pillar side is welded. That sure is going to make it difficult to repair. I found a $12 set of hinge pins that are made for Comanches. You think that would tighten them up? The welds is solid. All the flex comes from the pins. Is it common for the pin to wear the hinge hole? Seems the pins would be softer and be the part to wear out.

Ahhh Yes, I could then caulk the space with some latex or something. Good idea.

Here is my shop when I was working on the Willys: In this picture, the addition will be to the right. The wall behind the work bench will become opened up from I beam to I beam (20')

My shop is a stand alone 20' x 40' metal building with R panel walls. I can easily fit two vehicles inside one behind the other. It is a pain to move the back one out at times, so I decided to add on a 12' x 20' on to the side. Basically an L shape and add another roll up door. So, I started the foundation work yesterday, Cleared the ground, installed the batter boards, etc... I was admiring my progress when it suddenly dawned on me that in order to pour the concrete at the same level as the main shop, I will have to remove the R panels because else they will be 2" inside the cement. Those panels are 12' high, and there is insulation behind them. If I remove them to pour, I open my shop up to the elements which means I can't take my time about putting up the rest of the building. If I cut the tin, then I can't reuse it. It is only a couple of years old, so the plan was to reuse it. Any suggestions on how best to proceed? If I put a board up against the tin and pour, then I will have a channel to fill and have two joint cracks instead of only one. HELP.... :hmm:

Not sure if the comanche 4.0l is the same as on my 06 TJ 4.0l but you can not see the timing mark without loosening the belt. Not sure what the engineers were smoking that day, but I just remembered this tidbit. I replaced the OPDA (oil pump distribution assembly) aka the distributor, and being old school, I proceeded to find TDC like I have done thousands of times before on other engines. With the computer controlling the spark, boy have things changed. The more I think about it, the more I feel that just marking the rotor and housing is the only way to go "IF" you aren't going to rotate the crank any.

I've got some TJ stuff I'll put up later. I use the server to backup my files off site among other things. Then it dawned on me how easily I could create a web page to link them up for sharing. I know most of this stuff is out there on other sites, but there it is anyway. I'd sure appreciate any manuals anyone wants to contribute. There is a free FTP (file transfer protocol) program called Filezilla. You can download it and then I'll create you an account so you can log on to the server and upload files too big to e-mail. If this interest you, contact me and we will exchange e-mails on how to configure filezilla. Here is where I got my copy: http://download.cnet.com/FileZilla/3000-2160_4-10308966.html but there are other sites. I trust cnet though.

There is enough play in the hinge (at the roll pin) so that the door has to be lifted when shut. So i'm thinking it would be easiest to just replace the hinges as a complete package. I really thought I saw 6 torx bolts on each hinge. 3 on the door side and 3 on the body side. Maybe i'm mistaken, so as soon as it is light out i'll go take a picture.

Do you have a good copy of Adobe Reader installed? If you can view the .pdf in Adobe reader, then you should be able to save it to your PC using the "save as" feature. I have the permissions set to 644 so don't see any problems on my end. Any one else have issues?

Why will I be welding them on? Mine currently are bolted on with torx head bolts. I have no, zero, nada, zip salvage yards in my remote area where I live. Sooo much cheaper to get them online.

What about Zone Offroads 4 1/2" lift kit specific to MJ's? They are a vendor on here I believe. I was thinking of it myself, but anything over 2 1/2" lift I would want a long arm kit. Just because I have never had one mostly....

I just added the 1990 Jeep Electrical Service Manual

Done! Are you ok with Your tps instructions being there? I added your name for credit.

I'm adding to the repository all the time, but here is what I have so far. The downloads may be slow because some of the files are huge, but worth the wait. If anyone wants to contribute, i'll host them. The server is my personal one, so they won't be there forever. I'd grab them while you can... :thumbsup: http://www.alpinefur...tion/jeeps.html If something doesn't work, let me know please. I think I tested them all, but may have missed one.

What do you want pictures of?

As I understand it, rear XJ door hinges will work.

When I left NC, it was dark, so no pictures. The daylight part of the trip was just a bunch of fuel stops, and I only took a picture of crossing the Mississippi river. By the time I got to Dallas it was dark again. Here is what I have. The Rental car in Tampa was a 2013 Jeep Limited G. C. (they didn't have any Comanches). Then the trip:

The plane was 200 lbs overweight, so they dumped luggage I was told. I didn't bring tools just for that reason. I brought cash...

Not familiar with Redline MT. Is that a 90W? Being in Florida, i'd think that to be ok, but what about in freezing climates? Too thick?

It's real hard for me to go against someone like Novaks. They have a lot of experience with trannys and cases. I'm thinking the 50W is the way to go at this point, but I started the thread to get other opinions, so I'm still open minded as to what works best from real world experience.

You can do it the easy way sure. Basically the crank turn twice for every one revolution of the rotor. Therefor if you had it in 180° out, the rotor would be pointing in the opposide direction. The reason I always put the engine in TDC compression is just so I don't have to mark everything. I set TDC, then just yank everything out. To me, that is the easy way with no second guessing, but not really the easy way for you it sounds. To be clear and answer your question, yes you can mark the rotor to the housing, and the housing to the block and achieve the same result.

I like the idea of only having the engine and tranny oil the same. Once I get my front seal leak repaired, I will probably go MB1 synthetic also. :thumbsup:

I'm thinking of building a used oil furnace to heat my shop. A buddy has one, and once he got it tweaked, it actually works pretty darned good. he designed and built it, as he is a professional metal worker. Now that I have seen it, I could copy it eaisily enough.

I'm hearing/reading conflicting opinions on what is best to run. I read that GL5 is hard on the brass syncros, and that 30wt motor oil is the best etc... I went to Novaks site and here is what they recommend: Transmission Fluid The factory manuals call for 75W90 GL-3 gear oil for the AX15 transmission. It is the experience of some that a 50W fluid provides quicker shifts and especially so in colder climates. So, what do you all use/recommend, and why? I saw this thread: http://comancheclub...._hl__ax15 fluid and it answers a lot of questions, but then again leaves a lot hanging.