Biotex

I didn't ask the question clearly, sorry. I was wanting the measurements of the bed only. So: Long bed is 88" or 7'4" Is the short bed 72" or is it 82"

I'm also a pilot, but have never heard of her (Sabrina). I'm a local buisiness owner (4 of them actually) and did a data base search for that name. Nothing in my records. I'll be on the lookout. Sounds like someone I need to meet.

I have been looking around a bunch on the forum and still can't find what the length of the LWB bed is and what the SWB is. I think the LWB bed is 88" is this correct?

Oh sure, rub it in! I live exactly next to nothing... ever... :rotf:

Wonder if I could get them to log on and join the thread so we could all just collaborate. I'll e-mail them unless a mod wants to try to snag them as a vendor or something. I'm in for a pair. I would prefer around 2" lift and a 4/1 pack. Be advised the wrap is only on the front of the arch as there is not clearance on the rears. I have not confirmed this to be fact, it is just what I was told. I think this could be a great source for custom american made springs for our trucks. Give them a call or Here is their e-mail: sales@generalspringkc.com General Spring of Kansas City 915 E 56 Hwy Olathe, KS 66061 888-829-0619 I did not ask about shipping.

A military wrap is where the second spring continues around the main spring and bushing and adds considerable strength to the area at the bushing. A picture would be best. I'm not explaining it well I know. I'll see what I can find. Edit: Image Not Found See the double wrap? That's the military wrap. Helps to keep the mail spring from bending right where the end of the sring curls around.

Good tip!

Probably not, but of 90% of spring failures I see would be prevented by the wrap. Keep in mind I live in the mountains where vehicles do see a lot of offroad use. The way I look at it is it is a cheap upgrade, so why not?

Do those prices sound reasonable? To me they do, but I'm out of touch. I'm thinking I may get a set of 2" lifted, mil. wrapped (4/1) springs. Anybody else needing some could save $100/pr, so seems like a great thing. Maybe with Hell Creek going out of business, Joe will stock them for us!...

Guys, I have been in contact with General Spring to see about manufacture of 3/1, 4/1, military wrap (front), lift, etc.... All this is available to us. If we can get an order of 5 sets or more, the price becomes very good IMO. From the e-mail: "Building a 2” lift spring out of a 4/1 would cost around $200 each for quantity of 2 but if we could get the quantity up to 10 then they’d drop to $150 each." They also quoted me $135 for the 3/1 with no lift, but military wrap. What do you think? Any interest?

Cruiser, First off, i'm not disagreeing with your prognosis. We've all seen it many time when someone lets the tank go near dry, the fill up and the problems begin. What i'm trying to understand is what exactly happens. Is it debris? Is it the pump got hot? Both? Here's my logic: Fuel floats on water, so when the truck sits overnight, all the trash is settled to the bottom. The sump is on the lowest part of the tank, so theoretically every time you start up you should be cleansing the water/trash out by burning it, or trapping it in the filter. How do you see it? Curious....

My MJ came with a set of chains. I know they are not the right size, but they are yours if you want them. Brand new. IIRC they aren't completely just chains. More like nylon straps or something. I didn't give them a second look as I don't use chains. Gotta have snow to use chain... :rotfl2:

If you have an 8274 winch, then it would be a good deal for that front bumper. If you don't, it looks to be doable. Can't hardly go wrong for the price of metal these days.

I'm really not a fan of rearching springs as I find it as just a temporary fix and simply a waste of money. Having said that, I couldn't say just how long you would get out of a rearch job being the back end is so light on the MJ. Might be a viable short term solution.

That truck is sexy! Good find.

I am fully capable of setting up gears, or welding on spring perches etc... In this case it is appearing more and more that i should just bite the bullet and purchase a better rear donor with 3.55's already installed. Since I have to travel so far to get parts, I usually try the local solutions first, and as in this case, I would end up doing the job twice. Thanks to all who helped in setting me straight.

I came home with an 06 rubicon about 6 months ago. It looked like it had just come off the showroom floor, and I wanted it since my CJ didn't have air and I couldn't drive it to the far away trails. Too uncomfortable on long trips since it had a 4" lift with 33's. The wife loved taking the CJ to the grocery store on weekends with the doors off, and just a bikini top on (the CJ). She got LOTS of attention driving it... So she hated ruby right off the bat calling her bad names and such because I told her I was going to sell the CJ to help pay for the TJ. I sold my restored Scout 800B and used the money to fully metal cloak the TJ. 4" lift 35's, bilsteins, the best of everything. When I got finished with the install, that TJ would drive 90 mph without the slightest hint of instability. So wifey decides she wants a new 4-runner since hers is a 2000 limited with the TRD supercharger package factory installed... you get the idea... Her brother comes to visit, ends up driving the 4-runner and purchases it on the spot. Now she is without a vehicle so is forced to drive the TJ until she picks out what she wants. I left it totaly up to her, and next thing I know, 3 months have gone by and still she is driving MY rubicon. She fell in love with it, and wants it instead of a new 4-runner. :doh: Moral of the story is that women don't know what they want until you give it to them!

Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 97-01 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.31 - only available on older (pre87?) 2 door XJs with "Fuel Economy" package 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 3.73 - found in some XJs with the towing package 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually, and older XJs with the "Off-Highway Vehicle" package. 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission

Thanks for the reply. Yes, they both appear to have the D35's, but I did not know the MJ was non C-clip. My MJ has 225k miles on it, and the ZJ has only 100K, so I don't mind a complete swap just to get things going. I wanted to add 2" of lift and go up a tire size anyways, so I welcome the taller gears.

You can always do like a buddy of mine did. When you get low, and broke, put some pebbles into the tank so you can make it home. :eek: In all fairness, he was pretty drunk at the time, and stranded in the middle of the desert . He did make it home... :doh:

I make a lot of my own tools, and am sure others do as well. How about a section for tools where we can talk shops and tools?

I was thinking I could swap the rear gear set from the ZJ into the MJ. Not true? I know how to set up gears.

Just get some "adel" clamps and some self tapping screws. Not sure how accessible it is to get a drill down there, but might be doable from underneath.

Excellent points you make. This ZJ was in horrible shape when I got it (interior tore out by drug agents), and I am only using the front drive shaft, front diff, & transfer case. I will pull the cover and inspect the internals, and since it looks like I can get a used shaft, i'll go that route. The ZJ was totally free, and I'd like to keep costs of the 4x4 swap on the cheap. Once I get things together, then I can upgrade to stronger parts as they break. My MJ will not see any offroading other than some ordinary dirt roads.

So I have time to inspect the donor 93 Cherokee (ZJ) that I drug home a couple of days ago for the front axle so I could do a 4wd swap in my MJ. I'm underneath looking at what i'm up against and notice there is no long side shaft in the housing. From the looks of it, it has been out a long while. Perhaps the PO didn't have the money to fix it when it broke IDK. Now i'm faced with a tough decision. Do I spend the money on a new axle shaft. Since it is a crappy D30, I don't really want to spend anything on it if you know what I mean... The donor truck was free to me in the first place, so I guess I should just get one, but I will inspect the gears first. I did notice they are 3.55's acording to the tag. Not sure what my MJ has in it yet, but i'm thinking it is not 3.55's. Another decision. What is a fair price to pay for used axles? Can anyone tell me what years fit the 93's please?