88whitemanche

So I've decided to keep this truck... I've been picking up parts here and there for it... Got a wj booster and master cylinder... Bought an 20" light bar and a 50" curved one to put up top... Haven't done the brakes yet and installed the 20" light bar... Wj booster and master cylinder and disc brake parts for my 8.25 swap... Spring/shock perches cut off the 8.25...

Time to look for another shop... The shop I got mine from charged me $200 for the glass and install with 6 months warranty...

Iirc tom woods makes them for $200 shipped... I'm not sure if he is still providing the yoke parts for driveshafts anymore... If I recall someone here mentioned it but I'm sure he can make something up for you...

Correct center cap to center cap...

Put the yoke on(transfer case) slide out 3/4"-1" then Measure eye to eye...measure twice pay once... I messed up having to pay twice to cut my driveshaft for not sliding out 3/4"-1" for yoke movement...

I wonder if anyone who buys them will ever paint them red like factory except color match their original paint...I wonder how they would look...

Thanks... I got it from a vendor on here... http://comancheclub.com/topic/42237-personalized-engraved-pool-ball-shift-knobs/?do=findComment&comment=431271

That's happened me to me a couple of times with my set... I ended up using a 3/8"-1" with a lock washer...

Does it have a/c? The one I saw didn't have a/c....but it was super clean...

Nice! i saw one exactly like this color a couple weeks back and it went fast like hot cakes...

Correct me if This picture is wrong...I picked it off of searching Comanche load sensing valve... So I remove the front(load sensing brake line and everything behind it? And plug it?

Ok cool Question- the load sensing valve brake lines... Is there a single one that runs all the way from prop valve to the array of lines leading to the valve itself?

This is one I've been following up on... http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-zj-disc-brakes-cherokee-xj-chrysler-8-25-a-57807

If you didn't already know... The later model 2.5s have the aluminum valve cover...if you find one in the Jy remember to grab the valve cover bolts as well... And for a valve cover gasket use one from a 98 dodge Dakota with the 2.5 for a the blue thick felpro gasket

Exactly, when my rear brake line blew behind the fuel tank, I tried replacing the line and the whole system crumbled. Replaced the entirety of the rear brake line with an XJ prop valve (uses the same size machined block) and re-ran a new rear main line (just one this time). This can be done before the disc swap, and when you do the disc swap add ZJ "guts" to the prop valve if needed. My 2000 XJ still has stock guts with WJ fronts and TJ rear discs. Braking locks as it should (fronts lock first with rears trailing and tracking). There was some speculation that later XJ's may have gotten "whatever was on the shelf" which would also explain my lackluster braking pre-swap. Bleed the system at the prop valve first, then start right rear and so on. Be prepared to re-bench the master as well. My MJ's had an XJ prop for about 2yrs now, discs are still on the to do list (after the 8.25 swap). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Do you by any chance have any pics of your current rear brake line set up?

So what parts are needed to remove/replace the rear sensing valve? I'll grab the prop valve off an xj with grand Cherokee guts...

What's up fellas I plan on swapping in an 8.25 to convert to disc brakes... I've seen a lot of write ups for xjs but non for Comanches.. I do plan on swapping in a wj booster and master cylinder... My main question is regarding the proportioning valve... The videos for an xj shows to grab from one from an abs zj...but my Comanche doesn't have the proportion valve that can't be removed... do I just leave it alone and just swap in the disc brakes and booster and master cylinder ? What have you guys done?

Thanks fellas... I've been daily driving it the past 2 weeks and I've driven over 500+ miles... I think I caught the craze again with This truck... Swapping in an 8.25 disc brakes, regear to 4.88s front and rear, dual booster upgrade, sliders...

This^....I paid $140 with installation and the Cherokee rubber gasket on my Comanche....the rubber that goes around the glass is a trim peice as everyone mentioned...

Give him junkyard price...although he pulled it himself... Jys (upull) here with a core engine your looking at about $350-400... But it all depends on your budget as well...the lowest you can get it is best...id offer $150-200 and go from there...

This is something to consider after you decide to replace or stay with the same oil pan.... http://www.metalcloak.com/Wrangler-Oil-Pan-Skid-Plate-p/2701.htm

Sick vid! Those 40s look crazy good!

You need both sides engine bracket/motor mounts for an xj/mj in order to fit...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-AX15-Manual-Transmission-Support-Mounting-Bracket-5-spd-OEM-/112007199291?nav=SEARCH