ftpiercecracker1

Glad to see you were successful with the install. don't look half bad. :thumbsup:

My thoughts exactly, i believe experts have done research on this with some rather disturbing results.

I know i know, back to back threads = :shake: :thwak: :roll: :nuts: but i have several ideas in my head that i know i will forget if i don't get them done all at once. The question is simple, if you were to build the toughest/strongest MJ possible while keeping it as stock as possible (3in lift max) and costs reasonable, how would you do it? I already have an idea and wondered what you guys might do differently. The goal here is to make a truck that looks near stock, but can be jumped 2ft in the air, framed in a mud pit, but can still be drove to work the next day and ride like a car. Note: I said car not Cadillac :D Here is what i think is an excellent starter recipe. DO NOT INCLUDE accessories like fog lights, winches, bead locks, rock sliders, OBA, half doors, fancy bumpers etc > Chrysler 8.25 rear w/ chromoly shafts and ZJ disc brake swap > Dana 30 front w/ chromoly shafts > SYE of somekind (kit or HnT) > Metric ton springs > WJ knuckle, high steer, and brake swap > Brown dog or some kind of HD motor mounts > Bilstein or some other high quality shocks Have fun, :thumbsup: FPC, out.

By now we've all heard about the melting polar ice caps and how the sea levels will rise causing all sorts of mayhem, right? Well, the other day i was daydreaming, again, and a rather perplexing conundrum popped into my noodle. Back from my basic chemistry class in HS i learned that water is a very unique substance. Unlike nearly all other materials its solid form contains less mass than does its liquid form. It is for this reason that when water freezes it floats, because it becomes less dense than its liquid counter part and essentially why life can exist in areas that are below freezing for long periods of time. The important thing to remember is that ice contains less water than liquid. With that in mind lets conduct a little experiment. Lets say we have a contain (shape and volume do not matter) and can somehow fill it entirely with ice perfectly to the rim, without the container deforming. If we were to allow the ice to melt completely wouldn't the liquid water level be significantly lower than the rim of our container? Lets increase the size of our experiment to say the size of an ocean and lets drop a few ice cubes (polar ice caps) into it. While our 'ice cubes' are solid they are of a larger volume and thusly displace more water. As the ice (less dense) begins to return to water (more dense) wouldnt the water levels go down and not up??? Even if what i am saying is true, the melting of the ice caps is definitely not a good thing. From the loss of habitat to the massive influx of fresh water into the oceans and its possible repercussions, it is something we should be trying to circumvent. Cliff notes: The melting of the polar ice caps would could sea levels to drop instead of rise. With all of this said you may begin to think i am not a believer in global warming, quite the contrary actually. I believe something is happening and i also believe we (humans) are directly to blame. Hope you find this as intriguing as i did. :thumbsup: FPC, out.

We had an australian shepherd that got bit on the face just like your's did, only she swelled up about 5x worse. I have tons of pics, but they are all hard copies. I would have to scan them to upload em. That was up here in TN. We get copperheads from time to time and even a few timber rattlers, but they are very few and far between. Now when i lived in FL, thats a different story. Diamonds backs as big around as your calf. :eek:

Higher compression engines (9.5:1 and up) require a higher octane to stave off detonation caused by the higher pressures in the combustion chamber. When i first thought about the ICE (internal combustion engine) i originally thought that the gasoline literally exploded when the spark plug fired. As i have since learned this is not the case, instead it is a very precise and controlled burning of the fuel(s) that causes the expansion of gases to push the piston back down, keep the engine turning and you moving. Almost all High/Mild performance engines have higher compression ratios compared to their stock counter parts. Most of the time this is done intentionally. What is the benefit of running higher compression ratios? I don't exactly know, but i do know you must run higher octane fuels to compensate or you will experience detonation aka: the 'ping' (fuel is acutally exploding from the pressure) and premature and sometimes catastrophic failure of the engine. I think methanol/alcohol injection systems can help prevent this as well, but just running 93 all the time is far simpler. Our engines (4.0l) run somewhere around 8.5:1 to 8.8:1 compression ratio depending on the condition of the engine. Dragsters and other extreme performance gas burning engines can run as high as the mid teens (15:1) That is why they have specialized 'race' gas that is 108 octane or more. On a side not, diesels actually do run on detonation or a least a form of it. Since there are no spark plugs to ignite the fuel at the top of the pistons travel it is left up to the shear power of compression to ignite the fuel. That is why diesels have extremely high compression ratios and are able to run insane amounts of boost. They are built extremely robustly and can handle massive amounts of pressure and torque.

If you can swing it that thing looks totally badazz. If its a legitimate 92 that would be insanely awesome. If it is everything they say it is $4500 sounds pretty on target, if it were mine i would have probably started at 5k and maybe accepted 4,200-4,500 in cash. Either way it looks really cool, with tons of extras (winch, bed bars, spare tire carrier, extra trans and such) has working a/c (rare) and is a 92 (Even more rare) at the very least i think you should go look at it . . . . . . . . . . . and take it for a test drive it.

oops :oops:

I havent gotten to drive it yet because i lost a vital part of my TB, but i will have it back together in the next day or so. Yes, i thoroughly cleaned both the dizzy cap contacts and the rotor button, but i think i will hold off on the plugs for a little while longer. The wires are newer HD 7mm, so unless i discover a massive problem with them between now and then i won't be replacing them, at least for now.

Do you still have the ballast resistor in place?

Large amounts of carbon build up on the dizzy cap contact points, its the higher quality cap with brass contacts instead of aluminum. Do they make caps with copper contacts? I think that would be even better. ALL of the points looked like this, so i took my dremel and ground them down until shiny again. Going for a drive and shall report back. Rotor button didnt look bad, but i still took it out and filed it down a little. And since everybody loves pics, here is a shot of one of my spark plugs, right out of the engine, uncleaned. The gap is a little out, approx .038 The rest of the plugs all look about the same, pretty good color wouldnt ya say?

Think i found the problem brahs, pics soon.

Had to think about that for a second, but since i shift into neutral at stop lights i would say yes, yes it does do it in neutral as well. It does not matter what gear its in (5spd) Manifold bolts are tight indeed, if they were loose it would cause a high idle or so i have been told/read. :hmm: MAP sensor is original AFAIK, any way to check it? O2 sensor is newer and appears to be in good shape, but i have no idea how to check/test it either. i am going to check the distributor index, cap, and rotor today. keeping :crossfingers:

Ballast resistor is in good shape, replaced it not to long ago. I have yet to check the CPS, but it is newer and i have done the 'upgrades' to it as outlined by Cruiser, plus i have zero problems starting. Fuel pump is as quiet as ever. Every once in a while it will spit and sputter at a stop light, but the majority of the time it occurs while cruising with limited throttle application. I am pretty sure the FPR is not the issue, besides I have the newer fuel rail and intake manifold, so i don't know if yours would work if i even wanted to swap it out. This is the style fuel rail i have now. Sorry for the large pic, not mine.

Here we go again :shake: . . . Truck was running excellent as recently as a few weeks ago, but last week it started this spitting, sputtering, and what not. It has been getting worse each day I drive it, so I am parking it as of today (5/26/14) Symptoms: Just cruising down the road (60mph) it will begin to stumble, spit and sputter for no apparent reason. If I try to accelerate through, it will stumble worse and quietly backfire. In a 20 mile trip it may do it 5 - 8 times, otherwise it runs quite smooth. Every once in a while it will run rough at idle as well, not stall, just miss and stumble and generally run like crap. It still starts and revs fine. There is also a noticeable loss in power. When its cold, if I am not very gentle with the throttle and clutch it will stall out. Even when its good a warm if I get on it, it has a noticeable hesitation, be sluggish until it get higher in the rpms and back fire between shifts. Here is what I have proactively checked: Fuel pressure - perfect 31-32psi while running w/ vacuum, 40psi without, and jumps up to 35ish with the slightest blip of the throttle. TPS - I originally thought it would be this, and I am still trying to get it dialed in perfectly, but from what I have seen so far it is not the problem. Yes Cruiser I am following your instructions. Catalytic Converter - Pulled the exhaust off and checked it just a few hrs ago and much to my surprise found it to be completely and utterly hollow Spark plugs - Slightly out of spec (.039) but very good color. I pulled the forward most, middle, and rear most. TB - Thoroughly cleaned as little as a month ago Plug wires are HD 8mm, I will check rotor and button. Crank sensor, CTS, and O2 sensor are all within 1.5 years old Fuel injectors are 4 hole orange tops out of a straight six ford, have zero leaks and have been in place well over 8,000 miles Thanks for the help gents, FPC. EDIT: I have taken it in deep water recently (week ago, briefly over the hood) and nearly ran it out of gas on two occasions (also a week or so ago)

Glad she is okay, but i am afraid i won't be able to relate as well as others.

Weld a nut onto the head where the allen key goes, thats about your only option at this point, or so it would seem. :dunno:

No plug as in already apart of the harness? Cause if thats the case, just cut enough wire to include both the male and female portions of the electric fan harness. Yes, Taurus fans are two speed fans and yes they pull obscene amounts of air, but mounting and wiring them can be quite a challenge. IMHO, i think you are far better of going with a 97+ 10 blade cherokee fan, readily available, cheap (generally), easy to wire and pull more than enough air. There are actually two DIYs about it here on CC. Here is one, by yours truly. . . http://comancheclub.com/topic/38112-dual-2-stage-electric-fans-ftpiercecrackers-easy-way/?hl=electric+fan and here is a much better one by none other than the man, the LEGEND, heeeeeeeeeeeeessss HORNBRODDDD!!!!!! (sorry got kinda carried away, its late :oops:) http://comancheclub.com/topic/7895-dual-oem-aux-fan-installation/?hl=electric+fans

I might have missed it, but are you swapping bodies or drivetrains?

Maybe, maybe not. Unfortunately neither you nor I sit in their boardroom. But one thing is a certainty: If they don't make big profits building and selling mallcrawlers, there's no chance in hell cool concept vehicles like the Gladiator and Traildozer could ever become reality. Just googled the traildozer. :drool: :drool: :drool: 6.4 Hemi?? Are you kidding me?

Visually? I think it looks down right killer, super slick. REALLY like the tire/rim combo. Practical? Not so much, its just to dang pretty for me to want to take it offroad. Definitely not a fan of that interior, yack. :ack:

You are gonna need a Renix TB to pull a part from, do you have one?

You are gonna need a spring compressor to pull out the coils, you can rent one from most auto parts stores. They are a b*tch to use, but its the only thing i can thing of that can do it. As for what to use to remove the bump stops, I used a big ole pipe wrench to loosen mine. Not mine, but it should give you a good idea of where to put the pipe wrench. FPC

Dude, Eagle has forgotten more about MJs than you or I will probably ever know. Your doubt is understandable and you would be 100% correct IF we were talking about mech fans, but we arent. Like previously stated E fans have the "shroud" premolded into the body of the assembly. Word to the wise, moderators know their sh*t. :thumbsup: FPC.

IMO If its as far gone as what you say, i believe the best option is to find another harness out of a JY. But if the truck is running/driving without issue i would first try to salvage your current harness before going through the trouble of tearing the whole thing out. Its really six of one half a dozen of the other work wise. Electrical work is extremely tedious, so don't get discouraged. When i was "restoring" my MJ i too had the inclination to remove and replace, but instead decided to salvage. I ended up having the engine harness strewn across my entire living room for several weeks fixing, recrimping, and rewrapping. If you decide to go the replacement route, i believe you will have a much easier time finding a donor since your truck is an automatic. Any RENIX (87-90) 4.0 cherokee that is also an auto will be a direct fit for your MJ. I do recommend you seek out a NON C101 harness, as they are all to often the source of many electrical issues. Best of luck. FPC