Jeep Driver

I'm not suggesting you buy this from me, I'm just pointing to it.........pics show the differences between this one and the one you have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/283080943799

I ran a 1/2" pipe along what would have been the fuel rail on a MPI engine, at the end of the pipe I made a T, one side is a nipple that points to the heater core and the other side is for the temp sensor to the ECU. At the stat housing I have a switch for the fan. The original and appropriate housing has a threaded location for something, odd and fine thread, just a cap/plug, this needed to be drilled and tapped for 3/8 NPT for the switch. If you are going this route you need to be careful not to drill into the stat section of the housing. If you are going to use the 4.0 housing, later model, it should already be tapped for 3/8 and all you'll need to do is extend your sensor wiring. Your stock set up should run better without the heat in the manifold, let us know if that's the case, I'm curious. I'd find a stock OEM housing if you can, the aftermarkets are not quite as skookum. If you want the hard to find OEM for the 2.5 I have one on ebay.

Mine is correct for the 88 I'll post a picture and tell you what I did when I get home shortly

I moved my temp sensor so I guess you can too The concept of the heated intake is to heat the throttle body so that the throttle plate is not ice up that may be true and airplanes but it's not something you have to worry about it's just not true mine doesn't ice up

Take it from the back of the manifold straight to the inlet of the heater core do not bypass it your temp sensor is in the manifold and that's what the ECU reads for temp it's important

I've sold 99% of everything that I've ever listed for sale, couple of parts I have listed probably won't move and I know that. I drove to the KY line to pick up my core and I sold my old block to a guy who drove 200 miles from VA to get it. Concise ads, good imaging, and know your audience. Everything sells. I could spend an hour stripping your block down, another hour taking pics and placing ads and I'll make 3x the money than selling whole. If you want to move it bad enough, you'll do it. Patience. And contrary to popular belief around here......guys are traveling to get parts because good parts really are getting harder to find.

While 90psi is not good, I can almost guarantee you that its running rough for other reasons. I've built several engines, I built the new engine that's in my MJ currently and I cannot tell you how anxious I am to build another new engine for it (SBC this time). I want to lay my engine out, choose my parts, have direct communication with the machinist, and assemble myself, I want to know, not guess, not accept, not believe what I'm told, I want to know. I'm going out on a limb here- I'm going to guess that you have 150-170K miles on it, that's the average lifespan of a 2.5, they will never perform as a 4.0 but much is demanded of it, they get worn out faster. If built right and taken care of there is no reason that you could not expect 200K trouble free miles, at least of the engine itself, the ancillaries are a COMPLETELY different matter and that's where the troubles remain. I'm going to suggest to you that besides a worn engine your problem is electrical and I'll include your injector with that, also consider vacuum as a source of trouble. My suggestion to you- Find a good core, blocks and heads are all the same through the years (cranks are not, more on that if you want it). Find a good local machinist/engine builder, have him build YOUR engine. I would never recommend to anyone a remanufactured engine. Communicate with the machinist, have him lay out parts before he assembles and ask him to allow you to inspect before assembly.

Of course I'm not going to give you a satisfactory answer, that's a given. I suspect that tooling is at question here? In my case I have some custom body work aspirations of my own, I'm spending a lot of time studying from the masters. Guys who build custom cars/trucks from scratch, it's from that POV that any answer I would give would come from. My answer would be to put it back exactly like you found it, once restored, then consider adding strength. As I'm finding out myself, metal forming is an art and it's expensive, tooling is expensive. Just my opinion, Ironmanfab is the only one who is truly taking a stab at structural integrity, take a look at his longarm/4link set up, pretty damn nice (barring that awful blue paint).

If you're under 40 there's a good chance you've never seen nor heard of Knob-and-Tube wiring. I've seen remnants of abandoned KnT in plenty of older homes I've worked on but this is the first I've ever seen it in use. There are areas of this country that did not get it's first light bulb until the late 40s and early 50s.

Correct. You must be hang'n in da hood?

Elsewhere, last week someone complained about MPG, as many do here. I made the statement that I'm becoming convinced that poor MPG issues are related to a poorly designed and more poorly maintained electrical system. I have reasons for my conclusion which are not germane to this post. The response that I got was what was expected and precisely why I posted my thoughts. Some time back I posted some information that I had found regarding the average temp of a torque converter reaching 350 degrees and beyond. MJ/XJ overheating is a well-known problem that anyone who has owned one has experienced at least once. Since there are far more AW4 equipped Jeeps, what I would like to know is if there is a relationship between overheating and the AW4? Anyone with any common sense will know that introducing a fluid that is 350 degrees into a 200 degree container will raise the temp of the container, thus raising likelihood of overheating an already taxed cooling system. What does this have to do with anything? Jeep is riddled with inherent flaws, design and engineering flaws, just because AMC/JEEP/Chrysler designed something and placed a badge on the carcass of it does not make it worth defending. And for the 'not Renix' folks, Chrysler carried over many of AMC's flaws and cherished them for the next 12 years, nothing at all to boast about. Jeep people, instead of thinking their way through and out of a problem they keep trying to beat a square peg into a round hole. Here is something new and fresh, from a man who ponders. Pay attention to the dif oil temp, it might surprise you. These are the kind of people I learn from.

It's the binder that matters, not the paint per se.

Yes your truck is more than adequate. Just make sure your tow bar is flat or the CJ ain't gonna be happy.

Yes it probably is a PVC. Use a cleaning product called awesome you'll find it at Dollar General stores it's $1 per bottle in a really is awesome Use the product showing you above as a bonding primer one can will do an entire interior in a cost about $20

For whatever this pic is worth, I have pics of it out but in photobucket and not worth retrieving at the moment. There was no indication that the tank had ever been out and pump appeared original when I replaced it. Tag was on top and attached to a vent hose, again, no indication or reason to question the tag. Measures 29x17x13 Yes, I see that the 23 gal is 7 inches longer, otherwise the same height and width.

Here is the tag off my tank in my short bed. And why I photo-doc everything.

Great to hear you got such a good deal on the Powermaster! I assume it's working out well for you? Yes, ignition systems/injection systems need lots of power, they also need clean power. I've already anticipated some of what you are dealing with here, I've been thinking about how much of my existing wiring will remain and how much will have to come out and how much will be rewired. Curious, what did you do for a fuel pump?

Where do you think the RFI was coming from? Ground issue?

No.

No, you do not need a voltage regulator. New 4g wires, including your charge wire. Use a Megafuse, if you need a pic I'll get you one. If you want to know what works? Here- Your mechanic will likely need to reclock, reason is shown here- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-58137/applications/year/1988 Cheaper option for 105 amps is- 1986 Chevy Caprice, same as above but mounting holes are 1/2" further apart, you'll need to drill new hole in bracket and reclock as above. This alt will be rated at full rpm, not at idle as shown with the Powermaster.

Edit: you had time to read it.

Griff, you're grown man, you'll figure it out yourself. The only reason I get involved in any of these threads is because I've been in your shoes many times and I've screwed myself royal over stupid mistakes. The reason the shop is giving you the big F is because you had the truck towed in, they have you by the sack. Pull the transmission yourself, drop in on their bench and tell them to rebuild it, do it with attitude like you done it before, don't let them dick you around with a phone call later and an estimate BS. You'll likely settle for around $800. New TC for $180, fluids and misc- $80 or so. You'll get out of this for under $1100. The problem with the other canned answer- carpart.com You want a grade A low miles trans with a guarantee. You shop a dozen or so, hem-n-haw, throw a dart, make a couple of phone calls. Joe in TX sounds honest, he swears up and down he's got the best used trans in the country. You bite. Trans- $600 Freight-$200 Labor- $400 (you stated) Fluids and misc- $80 Total- $1280 80% chance you'll be fine. 20% you aint' fine. Lets say you ain't fine, trans is bad- Labor to remove $$$$ You freight return-$200 Who freights the warranted trans back to you:????? Who pays for reinstall? And all this takes two weeks. Suddenly that $1100 looks real cheap, doesn't it? People with canned answers never really tell you the whole story, do they?

Date Acquired 4/1/2004 5:00:00 AM https://completeauto.hollanderstores.com/used-auto-parts/1990/jeep/comanche/transmission/400-transmission-transaxle/400-02223-at,-4x4,-6-cylinder/part-349280-816-1 Do you realize that of the 14 the only one with a 'fair' condition has been sitting on a shelf for 14 years? Not only on a shelf but on a shelf dry for 14 years? No fluids for 14 years? This is why I keep refuting the canned answers you guys give. Their best transmission is trash, at best it's a core, nothing more.

No sweat.

87-90