Jeep Driver

Anode I used is pictured below. As for the Karo, has something to do with improving the density of the solution so the ions migrate better or some such nonsense.........who knows

Would like to have heard it running or you trying to start it. Condensation in the dist cap will cause slow start and rough run.

Zinc plating. Anode or cathode? Thought the anode was the sacrificial metal? Been a long time, but yeah........... My bath was something like this- 2.5 liters tap water 150g epsom salt 50g zinc sulfate (hepta hydrate) 200ml Karo classic (brown) 100ml vinegar Best if you have an adjustable power supply, I do not, I used an old power supply for a laptop or some such devise, don't remember. I wouldn't bother again........eh.......maybe.........

I tried my hand at plating, similar science just in reverse, transfer of materials. The only real reason one might take this seriously is for a concours restoration. Blasting makes quick and dirty work of most parts and much more effective.

I am by no means an expert, however, skim through my build thread, I took each panel pretty much to bare metal, probably 3-4 hours per panel. The time is spent on bodywork, reprime, rework, prime again.......etc......... It's work and there's no quick and easy way out of it.

The above vid is a sales pitch, not an example of how to prep a vehicle for paint. Men who are serious about what they are doing will have the body on a rotisserie, doors and hood off...etc....... Regardless of what retardant he sprinkled.........you'll have two hours to have the entire truck rinsed, wiped down, masked off and ready for 2K primer. Otherwise the bare metal will flash and you'll have a nightmare. If you are not prepared, time, equipment, material, experience.............do not go this route, it's more than you can chew. Become intimate with a DA, not nearly at bad as you think, one panel at at time. You will go back and DA the entire panel anyway as you do bodywork, and you'll hand sand the entire panel multiple times anyway (blocking).

CRD? Sorry if my post was misguided, but in principle................. Scanned a thread and some links, doesn't appear to be brake related according to common problems others have had. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80256

I'm assuming from the limited info provided- ABS sensor or module threw a hard code to the ECU, ECU responded and went to limp. Without a bidirectional scan tool you cannot read nor reset ABS. Unless fault is corrected with ABS you will not be able to reset ECU. If ABS fault is not resolved, a dealer may be able to reset ABS and clear faults, however, the cycle will repeat and you'll be right back to where you are now in a couple of days. ABS will need to be serviced, ABS module will need to relearn, ECU cleared. And you'll need access to bidirectional tool. Either way it's going to be expensive. If it were me, I'd strip out all ABS, have ECU cleared. My question before I attempted- Will ECU need input from ABS module to function? IOWs will ECU search for ABS and if not found will it automatically go to limp? This needs an answer. I alluded to all this in my rant regarding my Nissan, as I said then, people don't really understand how this $#!& works.

You could use one switch, NC, and wire the TC side through a relay, TC side could be NC or NO, wouldn't matter other than how you wire the relay. Brilliantly simple to do. Explaining so gets one mired in the mud. Or one could mod the bracket for two switches. Either way, I don't bother as one of the jesters will dismiss me as usual.

A solution to every problem. I knew you were smart. :)

Have you got cruise? does it work? If not and you don't care to make it work................... Universal or Ford brake light switch. The Renix era switches are nothing but a PITA.

"Trophies", I speak to the bigger picture and I assume you should know what I mean. I understand what autocross is, I'm speaking to the competitive nature of man. Whether you compete against yourself, the clock, or another driver.........you are competing, men don't compete because they are curious and most of us are not half-hearted, we're in or we're out. As I alluded to earlier, from Solo's official site, this is where the tire meets the road, get involved, volunteer, this is where you will learn- Even Solo states that autocross is the 'less' expensive form of racing. Here, these are the tires I'd be looking at or similar. Perfect for a 15x7 wheel and will net you a 2" drop in overall height. (4" reduction) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fal-34274?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-falken-tire&gclid=CjwKCAjwtvnbBRA5EiwAcRvnpkdBTbtqFe4fd4SOC7H_oHMOLuGE6zSShkfo9kAxZ-TZU6ZbkmVYqBoCtKMQAvD_BwE Suspension and steering, that's what I'd be concentrating on. Other than battery hold down and helmet, apparently they are looking to see if it's track worthy, I'd tidy it up, wiring and so forth.

There are Canyons and there are Deep Canyons. From what I understand.

Where'd you get the relay? Part number?

You neg cable from the battery, where does it go?

There are plenty of aftermarket wheels with 5" BS, mine are 5", my new ones will be 5". You are allowed .25" so it's a moot point. To make the point further moot..... You are allowed spacers, you can use spacers to come out at 5" or 5.25" or 5.5", you can use any wheel/spacer combination. As for springs and other dilemmas.......... If you need a 2" drop leaf pack, Call GS and order a custom pack. This is racing, racing is expensive, cobbling crap together will got gain you trophies. I guarantee you that you will fail a tech inspection for the most ridiculous oversight and it won't be for a leaf missing in a pack or you are off 1" in tracking. Take your truck to the track as is, pay your $50 entrance fee, get your first tech inspect knowing you will fail..........then you'll know what they are looking for.

I'll disagree with the tracking change to this extent If you take two stock wheels one a 6in width and 1 with 8 in width both with five and a quarter backspacing You have effectively moved tracking with out 1 inch in each Direction

The answer to the equation is (and), not either, or. Tracking width is center to center, correct? 15X8" wheel and tire with aspect ration of 60 or 50 or even 40 will gain you width and drop, the rest in the suspension. The whole height must equal width thing sounds like BS to me. So, you could not race a Fiat in the stock class? I'm sure there is a local forum for you, these are the kinds of people to ask- http://etrscca.org/etrsccaforum/viewforum.php?f=13&sid=b10a509d34376cf8f8917e98f1dd9070 and apparently there are multiple classes within Solo...........don't know what rule set you are trying to squeeze into. Edit: just skimmed a thread...........turbo tossed you out of stock class anyway........... You really need to get involved locally.

I don't' really understand what's being discussed here.........but........... Here's what I did to add protection between the alt and everything else.

For once I agree with you. :)

The one bolt, the wet bolt, book calls for 80lbs IIRC, I went 90lbs.

.Sorry, now I understand.

FWIW, I replaced my with a '98, same number of bolts, all blocks and heads are interchangeable.

The direct answer to your question- 84-85 engines had 7/16 bolts, every year thereafter had 1/2" bolts. Just order a 1/2" set and you'll be fine. You could take out a bolt or two and compare against a 4.0 set, can't answer that question, however, a 2.5 set will be cheaper. I want to present something here, if you don't like what I type, just let it be. This isn't just for you but for anyone who may read it. When I bought my truck it was presented to me as having a rebuilt engine with 5000 miles on it. I have no reason to doubt what the seller sold me, engine looked fresh and ran great. Ran cool during the test drive, oil pressure was between 40 and 60lbs. I put a little over 105K miles on the engine, probably 110 to 115K total. After three years I began to battle overheating and a loss of power, numerous reasons for the lack of power but a loss of compression was a given. One sign or tell of what I suspected was that I could clean the engine and within three to four days the passenger side of the block at the head, opposite the lifter galley, would weep oil. No matter, it would weep and remain wet. The other tell was a tremendous amount of blow-by. I never had any coolant in the oil, however, I did lose about 1 qt of coolant per month with no explanation for it. This block and head has long been sold, I took these pics not to document the cause of my problem but to sell these. The real tell was the head gasket itself. Loss of compression between cylinders 2 and 3. I suspect some coolant loss also. The pics still tell the story- If the builder had decked/planed/resurfaced the block and head this problem would have never existed. Do I think you can swap your head gasket and get away with it? sure, lots of people do, I've done it. That said, there is a reason why you are where you are. If you buy the ARP bolts, torque in sequence as normal but to 110lbs, torque once and forget about it.

Are you a pilot?