Jeep Driver

Where is your shifter in relation to the tunnel? How much further back?

So, I'm assuming your insurance is tied to your tag? Here, one with full coverage and two with minimums, right around $1000 for the year.

So is TN, so I decided against the antique plate. I could probably get away with it here in TN, however, I live very near several other states that I visit frequent enough that it's not worth the hassle.

Here is what a 2.5 will sound like with dual glass packs. Yes, they sound terrible behind the 2.5 and they'll sound similar behind the 4.0. I'll likely use them when I go V8, so I don't care what they sound like now. Those who complain about droning, it depends on where they are placed, my are at the end, just behind the rear bumper and are not turned down. Virtually no drone inside the cab.

$24 per year here in TN, still home of the free.

Yahoo mail would not load on my phone today but is up on my desk top.

Poly up front for me and never a creak or pop. I'll guess it's something else. My understanding is nothing by synthetic grease on the poly.

Differentials explained, the best explanation you'll find anywhere is here-

His pinion angle is way off, pinion pointing down. Looks like uppers are too short. Axle has got to be off center. First thing is to get your pinion right. Second is get the axle centered. Third is alignment. Then worry about rubbing..............doubt it will rub after you get the rest fixed.

Is your axle centered? How did you center it?

Yes.

Any 2W AX5 from any year will fit. They are all the same.

Something along the lines of this- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-87-02-YJ-TJ-2-5L-4CYL-AX5-5-Speed-Remanufactured-Transmission/272814701361?hash=item3f8505fb31:g:zhkAAOSw1g9ZmwsM&vxp=mtr They will demand core up front, you pay return shipping, core is refunded........if your shipping is $100..........your total cost is $800. You didn't say if it was 2W or 4W........... I've replaced my 4 times, each with a used, average used cost is about $300, you'll need to look around.

The AX4 or AX5 only came behind the Wrangler, XJ or MJ, with the 2.5, no other vehicles, IOWs you won't' find them in a Chevy. I agree though, same happened to mine..........counter shaft is toast. Find a good used one, or go to Ebay and get one for $700 that is rebuilt. With core/shipping the final cost may be about $900. Local rebuild will run you about $1200..........they will get you on parts costs.

If it were purpose built hardware...........maybe. As someone said........looks Ikea. If it were a light bar, held a long jack across the back window, fire extinguisher on the inside behind driver's door........doubled as a roll bar..........talking heavy hardware, something like that would be pretty cool.

From what I could find........ The BCM is a separate box, if you have a BCM you should know you have a BCM. If you have a BCM and you know you have a BCM, why in the world would you choose that model harness to begin with? No, another ECM will not fix the problem. And no, you will not be able to combine the '84 ignition with the '95 ignition. You'll have to wire the '95 as a stand-alone ignition........or..........? As I stated, looks like a cluster, owner appears to be chasing his tail on this.

https://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/manta-ray-rear-mj-bumper.html I'll have to say........that's the best looking rear bumper I've seen so far.

What imobilizer? I don't think any '95 Jeep had a chip key?

If the photograph you provided is current the first thing I see are ground wires not connected I cannot speak to the status if his ignition system I have no idea I have no idea what if he's trying to combine two different systems to make it work I have no idea it looks like a rat Nest to me it's just something he's going to have to work through

There is a thread here somewhere we'll have to find it regarding the 2.5 fuel pump he has the same setup on the carburated 6-cylinder when you turn the key on the pump is energized for 2 to 3 seconds and then shuts off when you turn the key to start the pump is energized again he will have to overcome this problem the reason it shuts off when the key ignition is on in the engine is not running is so you don't flood the engine the other thing he'll have to do is swap out to a 4.0 fuel pump the fuel pump in his Jeep currently is only good for 14 lb of pressure

Disregard my question, I see now what he did. Was the original 6 cyl carburated?

It had a 2.5 in it, didn't it?

Wait until you've been through a couple of wives. Cars are easier to get rid of.

This is the one that I plan on ordering this week. https://gtperformance.net/product/36-5445-gt-retro-leather-3/

I used a 4 gauge charging wire. On the 88 the wire goes to the starter relay. I used a MEGA Fuse, 175amp (IIRC) between the charging wire and the starter relay. If you need a pic of that I will get one tomorrow. You will have a post for the charging wire and a plug for the two wires.............that's it. The only thing you need to consider is the size of your charging wire, other than that, it's a simple replacement.