87MJTIM

Does it only happen when driving? If so, the lower rad hose may be collapsing from the suction of the coolant. The hose has wire spring inside to prevent it from collapsing. If the spring has rusted away, there is nothing to hold the hose shape.

From the photo, it is an external slave. Many parts are being made with a type of hard, plastics now. I am not an engineer, but I have read that this material is very durable.

Yes

Sweet! Looks like you already have the sickness, with that "other" Jeep. :yes:

Vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator

My experience the gauge: A little over a year ago, I was drive on a cold, rainy day with the lights on, wipers running and the defrost running. Everything that could be on, was on. I looked at the gauges and just about freaked out! My volt meter was reading 10 amps. I started turning off not critical electronics: radio, defrost (opened side vent windows) and head lights (left on running lights). The gauge rose up to approx. 11. It still had me worried. When I got back, I tested the battery with a volt meter - 14.8. The gauge was still reading about 12-13. I stopped trusting the gauge. I purchased one the Renix Engine Monitors (by Nick). One of the displays is the voltage. It reads a steady 14+ despite what the gauge reads. Don't trust the gauge!

Don't trust the dash gauge! Mine constantly reads low.

Do you have trailer lights wired in? If it was not done properly, it may be causing the issues. Have you check the light bulbs? The brake/turn lights are dual filaments. If you have an incorrect bulb in the socket it will cause lighting issues.

The wiring for the 90 can be found in the 88 electrical FSM http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ From searching on Morris Jeep in the knowledge section, there is a FSM for 96-01 XJ. In the wiring diagrams, under the wiper motor: DG/YL - Park BR/VL - High BR/WH - Low DB - Pwr BLK - Ground To connect the 90 to the 98: PWR: 90 LG/BK = 98 DB Park: 90 TN/BK = 98 DG/YL Low: 90 WH/BK = 98 BR/WH High: 90 DB/WH = 98 BR/VT Ground: 90 BK = 98 BK

Congrats on the swap. Does the AX15 have an internal or external slave? From the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. If you have an internal slave, I would think that there is a leak, most likely at the slave cyl. Did you change the clutch kit from the stock BA10 clutch to an AX15 clutch? This will depend on whether the AX15 is internal or external. The external AX15 has a different part number for the pressure plate than an internal AX15. (Part number comparison on Rockauto.)

Try bypassing the ballast resistor. It is located on the driver's side inner fender. Disconnect the two wires from the resistor and connect them together. The resistor is there to reduce the noise of the pump. These parts are known to go bad.

:popcorn:

Well, I was doing a Macaulay Culkin impression last night - "Home Alone." I was watching in the first half while the Birds were running away with it. (Brady's first TD pass was a pick-6.) At half time I hit the mute button and never turn back on the sound. (Don't care for Lady Gaga. Don't care for Aikman, either.) I had pretty much given up on a Pat's comeback. I was still watching (in silence) as the Pats mounted the biggest comeback. WOW! Like I said in my earlier post, don't bet against the Pats.

Those wires are the pwr and gnd for the license plate lights.

True. Start with the easy stuff first.

He said is hazards work, but turn does not. I found that when I had similar issues. The signal switch was the common unit for both the TURN and BRAKE.

Get a wiring diagram and a multi-meter.

Most auto parts stores let you rent tools. The steering wheel puller is usually one of them.

I had a similar issue several years ago. Flashers worked. No turn signal or brake lights. I first replaced brake light switch. Did not fix it. I studied the wiring diagram and found the common connection for the two was the turn signal directional switch. Replaced it and the problem was fixed. I have not had the problem since. http://www.morris4x4center.com/turn-signal-switch-directional-56002011.html

Now you have two transmission cross members. Like said, the rear drive shaft won't fit Every thing from the tcase forward will swap. Get the XJ for parts!

Root for the Birds If I put $ on the game- the Pats (They say a fool and his $ are soon parted. I ain't no fool)

Cruiser, Nick's tool (REM) does seem to work. Yesterday, I plugged in the MT2500 and noted the readings on it. I then reconnected the REM tool and noted the readings on it. Good news: I got the same readings. On a bad note: My O2 sensor is reading a constant 4.98v and is in constant open loop, both MT2500 and REM :mad:

Some people have taken the older linkage and flipped over. You can search for that on here (and other Jeep forums) to check how it worked out.

Kook911, I have one of those. too bulky to fit in the cab and too difficult to operate while driving. With Nick's REM tool, I can check systems while driving. But, still a good tool to have :thumbsup:

I used Frams for year. Mostly because that's what the parts stores carry and their not expensive. I've never had any issues. Of course, I change oil 3000 to 5000 miles or 6 months, which ever occurs first. That said, I have discontinued using Fram after all that I have read about them.