87MJTIM

"The other night I came home late, and tried to unlock my house with my car keys. I started the house up. So, I drove it around for a while. I was speeding, and a cop pulled me over. He asked where I lived. I said, "right here, officer". Later, I parked it on the freeway, got out, and yelled at all the cars, "Get out of my driveway!" " Steven Wright

I have an MT2500 plus LOTS of cartridges and manuals. Thank you, though.

Like the title says, does anyone have the Jeep troubleshooting cartridge that you are willing to part with? I have a box of manual and cartridges for Asian, domestic and Euro models for the MT2500 if willing to trade. I may have an extra Jeep primary cartridge in the box, also.

The shorts and the socks!!! Man that takes me back to the good old days. I was the EXACT demographics of the targeted market. I probably had those shorts and socks. (I'll have to check, but I may still have a pair shorts in a drawer.)

I had one similar to that. It was mounted on the passenger side.

Rockauto.com Someone has posted a discount code to save up to 5% on purchases.

How did I know that was a Walmart parking lot.

Yeah, to each his own. When I see those MJs I just move on. I don't comment on it.

My wife uses it. I will ask her about it.

Besides the one in my driveway, I've seen about three or four around me (Frederick MD).

Get a test light and a DVOM. Turn the key on. Put the trans in reverse. With DVOM, check the Ohm reading of the switch. If reading is 0 (zero) the switch is good. Proceed to the next step. If switch is bad, replace the switch. Go to the rear wiring harness. Unplug the rear light connector. Using the test light, probe the source side connector to test for power on the BRN/WHT wire. If you have power back there, look at the light bulbs and sockets. If there is no power getting to the rear, start following the wires back looking for breaks in the harness.

on the passenger side of engine, close to the fire wall, is a flat, 4 pin connector. That harness drops down to the transmission. On the other end of the harness, two wires come out to an 2 pin connector. That should plug in to the reverse light switch. A Blk/yel wire comes from the fuse panel and feeds power to the switch. A Brn/Wht wire then feeds power to the reverse lights. (What happens to the other two wires on the 4 pin connector you are asking? These would connect to a NSS gear selector switch on an auto trans. They're not needed for manuals.)

It is always sad to hear of someone dying from an accident, illness or violence. Especially when many of them were so young - two children.

Is it just me or do others look at some of these Comanches and ask "Why did you do that [name modification] to it?" Often times, I feel out of place. I like stock Jeeps. Call me crazy.

You could search for a switch with a probe that slots into the rad fins. I don't know of one, but if you have this issue, most likely someone else has also. Necessity is the mother of invention.

The temp coming out of the T-stat housing will be the hottest. The temp on the cool side of the radiator will be much lower. How much? IDK. NAPA sells a radiator that is an open system but has a bung for a switch - NR 2802. If you have not downloaded the 88 electrical manual yet, you should do so. It will assist with understanding the wiring for the e-fan.

Hope this comes through

My MJ is an 87 Laredo package. The window sticker states the seats are "tan." I pulled the interior from a 93 XJ that must be "sand." The XJ interior is lighter than the MJ colors. The MJ has more of a brown/orange tint to it. My MJ dash has a crack in it. I was thinking of swapping the XJ dash, but he shades are diff. I would want to paint it to more closely match the original color. The camel shade looks closer than the palomino for my MJ

You will need to determine which wires are in place to run the fan.

My e-fan does not kick on until the engine temp reaches 219*. That temp comes off the REM scanner which takes the temp from the engine block. The e-fan temp switch draws from the cool side of the radiator. So, I would guess that the coolant temp is a lot lower than 219* at that location.

Sounds similar to an issue I had many years ago. While driving, I would loose all power: engine, lights, everything. Sometimes, it would come back on; other times, i would have to pull over and restart the engine. Then one day it died and would not restart. I had power - lights, gauges, and cranking- but it would not fire. Turned out to be the CPS. Before you throw parts at it, test the CPS. See Cruiser's Tips #7. Also, see CPS Testing at Lunghd.com. Also, give us info about your MJ: Year, engine, transmission, 2 or 4 wd, major modifications, etc.

1, 2 ,4, 5 & 7. The rest are good to perform, but these directly effect electrical signals. (not that other ones don't effect electrical signals)

An auto trans (AW4) is longer by about 1" than a BA10 and AX15. The front drive shaft for an auto is longer than a manual trans DS.

Let's see Camel, Palomino and an original colors side-by-side-by-side. I have the Honey color

I'm going to sound like a broken record, but... Perform Cruiser's Renix Tips first before shooting parts at it. Especially test the CPS. If it is not functioning the ECU will not send power to the ignition system.