87MJTIM

Looks like the heater control vacuum switch.

If you give it gas, will it run? If it runs when giving it gas, the IAC may need cleaning or replacing.

Stopping that will require a solid, immovable object.

Mine is factory with those rails.

it’s amazing how much time I have on Sunday when I don’t spend all day going to the stadium and watch them lose, again and again

I got it…sorry to say.

Please pass along my condolences. I used have season tickets. I went to all the game through the super bowl years (and the Snyder years). I gave them up 5 yrs ago. I couldn't take anymore. All the drama with Kapernick, BLM, and the name change issues, I gave up on the NFL. I stopped watching game altogether.

As a 3rd generation - and life long - Redskins fan, (yes, Redskins, not that new name) I cannot cheer for NY, Phil, or Dal. I am not a KC fan. I just cannot cheer for THE OTHER TEAM.

I found it on Facebook

The taillights are not on their website. Where can I see the different options?

Chrome trim coloring?

What other year's motor will work? 97+ or later yrs.

Rust - before

One more post and the classified will open up to you.

I don't have an auto. The 88 electric manual labels it the "Gear Selector" switch, but I think its the same as a NSS. The TCU reads when the trans is in N or P. Don't let the wiring scare you. If you haven't downloaded the 88 electric manual, you should do so. Print out the pages for the wiring you a researching. Study it. Get under the truck and examine the wires and connectors carefully before taking things apart. In simple terms: electricity flows from a power source (Bat +) through wires and connectors, to a switch, to a load (like a light), then to a ground (Bat -). The switch will either close the circuit - allowing electricity to flow to the load (light on) - or open a circuit - breaking the flow (light off). When the trans is shifted in to reverse, the switch closes allowing electricity to flow to the lights. That's why I have you test the electric at the connector feeding the switch. If you have Bat + in to the switch, but not coming out of the switch when KOEO in reverse, then the switch is bad or just dirty from 40 yrs of dirt. If power is coming out of the switch then the issue is further down the line. Use the wiring diagram to assist with tracing the wires.

The last picture is the gear selector switch. The rev. light wires run through that connector. Unplug the connector and test power on the engine side of the connector. It should be a Black/yellow wire, pin A. (The wire is Yellow on the switch side. ) Test for power on the engine side with KOEO. Power runs back to the lights first through a White/Black on the switch wires then to a Brown/white on the engine side - pin E. Keep working backward until you find where the power stops.

Crawl underneath the truck. Locate the switch screwed into the trans. With KOEO, use a test light to check for power getting to the switch (black/yellow). Put the trans into reverse. Back probe the wire coming out (brown/white?). Does the test light lite up? If not, replace the backup switch. If you have power in, the check for power back. From the rear, locate the wire coming the back (brown/white). It you have power at the rear, then check the light and the sockets

First things you should do is read through Cruiser54.com and perform most of the procedures. At least, perform all steps necessary to get it running. The stopping once you let off the gas may be the idle air control valve. This is located on the throttle body. It may not be opening properly. Try cleaning it with Throttle Body cleaner before throwing more parts at it.

Where in VA?

That’s the CC clutch switch. The metal tab inside the connector is a jumper since yours is an automatic.

Seat belt mechanism - unique to MJ

No. Probably $228.99

Waiting for $$.

There’s already a thread running on this.

…fuel pump and sending units…