DirtyComanche

This is the wrong subforum. Somebody might see it and move it. Your transmission issue might be as simple as the clutch needing to be bled. Or it could be way more complicated, such as worn synchros or the clutch is worn out or assembled wrong. More info would help with diagnosis, such as if it happens only when stopped, or moving. Also being an 89 you might have the terrible Peugeot BA-10/5 transmission, which any minor issue with it is a likely sign of imminent total failure. Your brake problems could be a lot of things. I'm guessing you couldn't fully bleed it since one of the bleed screws is broken off? Also, there is a funky bleeding procedure because of the load sensing valve in the rear, it is posted in the tech section and somewhere in this section I believe. Beyond bleeding them, I'd guess that your hoses have gone soft and are ballooning under pressure. Or it is actually leaking, just slowly. The line behind the fuel tank is notorious for rusting, and the wheel cylinders can weep if they get old, so those are two places worth looking. You can make the closed system cool properly, but it is hard to keep it working because the expansion tank is a piece of junk. Running hot is normal, it is a 195 degree thermostat and the temp sender is in the back of the head. So seeing over 200+ on the gauge is not at all abnormal. Also the gauges are notoriously poorly calibrated. Another common thing is the fan clutch wears out and no longer functions, plus often if there is an aux fan it no longer functions either, so they're things that are worth checking/repairing.

I threw in a set of Volvo 746 injectors today, since I wasn't really able to do anything else useful. I guess they made some sort of a difference in regards to throttle response, nothing earth shattering there. It did seem to clean the idle up a bit. I popped the cap off the disty and realized I must not have looked at it since I bought it, it desperately needs a new one and a rotor, so I got those ordered. I did the plugs and wires though since I had them on the shelf.

I don't see how a proper body shop could possibly fix all those panels for $3200 - the guy with the Chevy better fight that. $8-10k seems reasonable to me.

Maybe 500km on it now. 200km on gravel/dirt/some abusive stuff. Everything still works fine.

Why did the head gasket go (a second time at that)?

Might look into a 67-68 Camaro fuel tank... It's a promising shape. Edit, the picture I had was not of a Camaro tank... Hmm, going to have to try to find out what. 2nd Edit, it is said Camaro tank, but only the Holley EFI verison. And it isn't cheap. At all. http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/19-101/10002/-1

All the threads that said it fit were regarding the Peugeot, at least that I saw... I mean, it would work, it does look like it is exactly like the one that is in there, minus the one I have is destroyed. My understanding is that the one for the AX-15 is slightly different, or is moved back just a bit, but I don't have anything here to compare to. Might be more of a junkyard item.

Just realized you said you are a welder, I read that as 'not a welder' the first time. So you should have no issues doing the work required to swap the rear, and I'm sure you could figure out how to stick a bracket kit on for the front.

The platform does share a lot with the XJ Cherokee. Up front they're pretty similar. The rear is obviously not, most importantly for you the suspension and axle mounting are not the same. Your rear axle is a D35 (I'd assume at least) and the front will be a HP (high pinion) D30. The D35 is a turd, the D30 is okay within limits. You should figure out exactly what you intend to do with the truck, and how big of tires you want, etc, before doing anything else. A crawler can be pretty hardcore, same with Jeepspeed, however both could be built using a D30 front (most Jeepspeed stuff retains it due to rules, AFAIK). The rear really is useless, but the options of swapping it should be tailored around determining if the front axle is to be swapped or not. Most common rear axle swaps are the XJ/MJ D44, the later XJ Chrysler 8.25, and the Ford Explorer 8.8. Only the MJ D44 will bolt in, all the others will need minor fab work (remove and install new spring perches, shock mounts, etc). These swaps are well documented and you can have the axle set up to go in the same day you pull the old one out. Swapping the front is a whole 'nother ball game. You need to have decent fabrication skills, or at the least be wiling to drop money on a bracket kit and know or pay for a decent welder/fab guy to put them on. There also isn't a lot of clearly good options for a front axle. The Wagoneer D44 is common, but it's a bit of a turd being LP (low pinion), and it's not an ideal width IMHO, plus it is 6x5.5 bolt pattern (can be converted to others, but can not be made into the stock 5x4.5 pattern). I think for a D44 I'd look for at some of the older F-truck axles. However, for the work to swap one in, you're already a long ways to swapping in a D60 for more bang for the buck. However, going to a D60 front has downsides, it's big and heavy and only justified with much larger tires. Also to consider, the older D44s aren't a huge upgrade over say a newer D30 out of a JK, as Dana made some major general improvements to their axles when they went to the JK stuff (and some other newer stuff, like the Superduty D60). Or just straight up pay to play and buy a crate axle set up to go in an XJ/MJ/TJ. The economics of this are generally pretty terrible though. Like I said, figure out what you want the truck to do, and then it can be answered as to of what options are probably best for you.

To clarify, I mean the one over the hole in the floor. Not the one on the transmission, or the one in the console.

My inner shifter boot is completely falling apart. I need to adjust the cutout for the shifter a bit anyways (Peugeot to AX-15 swap problem). Is there another application boot that works nicely and can be sourced? Something generic even? Maybe something a little larger since I'm going to have to hog the hole out a little?

Very different... I'd have down turned it and dumped it into wheel well or just straight down rather than cutting the bed, but that's just me.

Oh. I know what the issue is. I left the s in the https. Can't embed https, http you can...

Interesting CCV setup there, it always amuses me what sorta odd stuff previous owners/'mechanics' did to things. Should be a good starting point to build from though.

That's a nice looking truck. :thumbsup:

So, what's the code to embed youtube? :???:

https://youtu.be/37L9pc7thDA Boring video. But the new clutch is working well. No idea how you embed Youtube on this forum, it doesn't use normal BBCode... The transmission still moves around enough to hit the cutout in the tunnel at times, so I need to do something about that. The rearview mirrors are still useless and stupid, I need to find another option, and the rear hitch dragged on everything throughout the day... So there is of course more work to do! There's still snow

On the random shut down and no start, it's probably your crank position sensor going out... When they're reaching end of life they often won't make enough juice when they get hot. Once they cool down they'll work well enough again.

Those are the Ultra Flex rubber ones or the polyurethane?

How's clearance from the oil pan to the axle? As good or better than with a 4L?

That's disappointing. I liked the concept. If my LWB hadn't been crushed by a tree I would really consider building it into a street truck.

And one note about the clutch master cylinders, I checked, the bore size is 11/16" for an internal slave. There is some slight variations in bore size over the years, but if anything the internal slave one appears to be the smallest of them. Or it is just measuring error resulting from sizes being listed in metric and imperial. So getting a newer one (which I'm guessing is what was on there, with the integrated hose and a quick disconnect fitting) probably wouldn't cause problems.

I've got about 120km on the new clutch now, seems like it is working fine. I will try to do some mild wheeling on the weekend and see if it continues to be happy. I do need to do my rear main seal, or just the pan gasket (if I pull the pan I will do the rear main). I was kinda hoping it was just the valve cover, but that would be way too easy. While I don't think oil getting on the clutch was a contributing factor, or even actually happening, I don't like it leaking nor want it to be a problem.

This is the one I am talking about: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=534609&cc=1029620&jsn=578 1997-2005 Blazer. This one for carb applications: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=534588&cc=1029619&jsn=465 1996 Blazer. No, I haven't tried it. I probably shouldn't have said "...guarantee it will fit" because that's a pretty bold statement, but I seem to recall measuring it before and thinking it would go. Might have been on my LWB that I measured though...

S10 Blazer tank... just about guarantee it will fit. They're kinda a pentagon shape.