DirtyComanche

I'm guessing it has an XJ wiring harness in it, since you believe it's a 93 HO engine. Radio... Probably tapped the wrong wire for the 'switched ignition' to turn it on. I think you'll have to pull the dash and chase what it's hooked to. Radio/stereo installs tend to be the #1 hacked thing in vehicles since every person out there takes a stab at installing one. Dome lights? I assume you mean the ones in the B pillar. If so, I'm guessing because it has an XJ harness in it, there wouldn't be anything to hook them too without splicing or swapping some plugs and extending things. Unfortunately you'll probably have to pull the entire interior to find out what they did and make it right. For your fuel gauge sender issue, the easiest would be to try to find a HO sender/pump/pickup assembly from the classifieds here, eBay or a junkyard. They aren't easy to find. Hacking the tray to fit an XJ sender is well, hack, but if need be that would be the next option. Or I suppose you could order a new tank that doesn't have the tray/baffle in it, but I'm not sure which comes without, and honestly it was in there from the factory for a good reason.

So, is this supposed to be hardcore technical stuff, like oddball axle swaps, custom link suspension, installing engines that were never factory in the XJ/MJ chassis, etc? Or am I supposed to ask a technical question is prose? IE: My water pump appears on the fritz, I could use your help with a fix, Must I buy one from the dealer, Or can I go with something cheaper?

What's it for? [ep-ik] adjective, Also, epical 1. noting or pertaining to a long poetic composition, usually centered upon a hero, in which a series of great achievements or events is narrated in elevated style: Homer's Iliad is an epic poem.

This wouldn't be for my 88, but if it was easy enough to do I would ditch the cable setup in both it and my XJ in a heartbeat. The early electric speedometers use a little signal generator box that screws into the cable drive on the tcase, so it's easy to add them to any tcase that uses the 7/8th inch (IIRC) cable drive. Obviously there is pin differences between the Renix and HO cluster, since the Renix doesn't have any provisions for an electric speedometer, but one reasonably could overcome this by using a mismatch of components or splicing some extra connections in. Wires could be added to the vehicle as needed, it could just be done on a pegboard as a separate harness and then installed. Anyways, since it appears the TCU or ECU likely modifies the output, there is not likely an easy way to make it work. Unless like I mentioned, somebody sells a signal converter for this.

Who are you ordering a cluster from?

It's easy. I've never done it on a tcase that new, but there's very few tricks to it. I recommend doing it on the bench in the vertical position (tail shaft up) as I find it makes life easier. Make sure you verify it will shift before you put it back in, you can C#*@ the shift fork off and jam it, make sure you get the oil pump seated right and the pickup tube in it, and beyond that as long as you keep things clean and use enough RTV it will be fine.

Yeah, Dakota Digital has various signal conversion boxes, along with some other companies. That said, it's probably not worth it then. But I could look into it a bit more. IMHO the factory cluster looks and fits better than most other options. I spent some time trying to fit a GPS speedo and matching tach into the stock cluster and was never happy with the results.

That's for if you lock your keys inside, you just gotta strip down and lube up so you can wiggle through!

Full float axles have gigantic hub that sticks out through the wheel. No regular full floating truck axle can run the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, the hub is simply too large. Incommando's comment that it might be out of an old Mopar would make sense. Some did use a semi-floating D60 and they were drilled for the small 5x4.5 pattern. They're also 30 spline shafts and typically came with tall gears, but who knows without popping the cover.

I might look at the HO wiring diagrams later today then.

That would be the big concern. If it came 'close' when installing the tranny, and then it was sucked together with the bolts... You might well have mangled things that don't like to be mangled.

Search failed me - Is the electric speedometer on the HO more or less a standalone component, as in as long as you have the cluster and the little tach gen box that goes on the speedo drive and a couple wires it will work? Or does it integrate with something like the PCM/ECM/whatever other magical boxes and miles of wiring? I want to use one for a swap rather than a cable drive simply so I don't have to route a cable. It just seems like a better solution. Yes Hornbrod, I am admitting that certain Chrysler components are better.

It's a bracket for the vent line, IIRC.

Nice looking Comanche!

I like that steering wheel, too bad it doesn't have a Jeep emblem in the center though. Are you using a specific paint for the plastic pieces of the column?

Yeah, I hear you on the LS swap. I've been itching to pull my 86 out of the weeds to start trying to fit it up for that, as ultimately I think it would make for a lot better truck. But, too many projects and not enough time.

That shop looks awesome, I really wish I could have gone that big when I built mine. So, it's going to turn into a LS swap project?

I feel the same, but once you go to too large of a tire you run out of good places to put a spare, without sacrificing your bed space or massively degrading the already poor aerodynamics.

You need a good knife with the right shaped blade to cut the urethane adhesive out with. Piano wire might work too, but I never had much luck doing it that way. Then you'll need to get all the old adhesive off and clean up any rust or other damage. Then lots of tape to hold it while you glue the new one in. Making some spacers to get the position right would also be a good idea. The rubber 'seal' is just trim, FYI. You can glue it back in if it comes out in good enough shape.

A teenager... Get some pictures of it.

The windows in the flexplate are what the crank position sensor reads, and that's the basis of how it determines when ignition and injection events are to occur. Obviously ignition advance/retard is modified beyond that baseline depending on the output of other sensors, but those windows and the crank position sensor sets the base timing. If those windows are screwed up the timing will likely be hunting, or way advanced or way retarded. As I previously mentioned, the one my friend had refused to idle properly as the timing was going amuck at that point, but his issue was that the windows in the flexplate were the wrong size, if they had simply indexed the windows wrong that would produce a retarded or advanced state. A timing light will answer this and likely rule out the new flexplate. I think you more likely have a MAP issue or a vacuum leak. I would use brake clean (non-chlorinated) to look for vacuum leaks, and check the MAP output or swap a known good one. But please put the timing light on it first, or at least at the same time.

It's definitely a D60 and not a D44? Semi-float? What's the bolt pattern? I guess you would be able to drill a semi-float D60 shaft for 5x4.5, but it would be kinda silly. IMHO the semi-float D60 is kinda useless anyways, most are still just a 30 spline axleshaft but weigh more and have less clearance than the D44. If you need that much strength you're better off going to a full-float setup and real strength (35 spline axleshafts). Somebody should just buy the whole Comanche.

Rear? Is it special, or just a truck axle with perches welded on at 42"?

$200 for all of them? The only thing I can think of that might be worth it is looking into if you can use JK takeoffs and hitting the buy and sells to see if you can get some nearly new ones for dirt cheap. Honestly, JK takeoff stuff has largely dried up since they don't make JKs anymore, but some is still out there. Otherwise I'd say use the Monroe sizing chart and buy whatever will fit off Rockauto. You can cross reference the P/N back to application there to get an idea of what valving you're going to get, IE shocks for a F-350 might be a little stiffer than what you want.

I wasn't meaning that to imply that he shouldn't continue to tune it after, but all reading I've done suggests that the Neon injectors will outflow his requirements. He will be a lot closer to the ballpark using the Volvo or Ford ones. But maybe not. I'm actually going to change my advice to "try it with whatever injectors you have and change them out accordingly." If you legitimately have no working injectors on hand, then go get some junkyard or eBay ones. (Are you actually planning to buy 'new' injectors?)