DirtyComanche

I would leave your starter and alternator alone, just pick up a couple cheap reman or new ones to use as a spare in the unlikely event you need them. You could watch my super boring video on what I carry with me. I'm comfortable that with it I could make it to the next town or out of the woods 95% of the time.

I'll look into it some more. I don't have a 91/92 FSM but I'm sure I can find one. There is potential that even if it does go through the ECU that it will still work without being routed through it.

That will be a big job to fix. It will cost thousands is you pay somebody to do it. So learning to do it yourself will be the only reasonable way... It's going to be a lot of cutting stuff out and making big patch pieces. The floor will the be the least critical part.

Interesting. I have one of the 92 signal generator things around somewhere, it was the type I was planning on using. I didn't realize they were only 91-92. So if it doesn't route through the PCM in those years then it should work.

Thanks for the link, I found a totally unrelated product that they make which will probably solve all sorts of problems on my Gladiator build.

I'd question the economics of this trip. Definitely do a checkup and change as needed on the brakes, wheel bearings, other fluids, etc. Then put a couple thousand pounds of whatever in the box (rock, water bottles, whatever) and go do some highway speed hard braking and decide if you want to proceed.

Pirate broke it down as newbie and general, which was more like normal and hardcore. I think NAXJA broke it down as various types of tech, and hardcore (called 'Advanced fabrication' IIRC?). The problem with what Pirate does is that everyone shows up and is like "I'm not a newbie!" and posts in the general one, then promptly they're told some specific instructions regarding inserting things into cavities and whatnot. I don't think NAXJA's format is as ambiguous from that standpoint, but they also have a million random subforums for anything you might want to do, and street/strip use is one. Personally I think I'd rather call it "Advanced modified tech and fabrication" or "Highly technical modification and fabrication" or something. Epic to me implies something slightly better than drinking warm bathwater. Either way, I welcome the section and hope it works out.

BTW, the subforum is locked.

You could immortalize those in a How-to in the write ups subforum. "Epic" is a terrible word, because as I was trying to suggest, it actually means a long poetic journey, or a long series of achievements, and it's centered around heroism/hardship/perseverance. However it's become slang for "awesome" or "amazing" or even just "good", which means it's pretty ambiguous in the modern language, it's meaning has been so diluted at this point that someone could easily feel that a discussion on burrito places would be appropriate for that subforum.

I saw those, looks like the better way to do it.

I don't know much about the HO Jeeps because I've only ever owned one (and it was actually sorta new then), but the voltage regulator failing in Chrysler PCMs is super common in their other vehicles. Most people slap an external regulator on them and motor only happily into the sunset with no other issues. When you say it won't crank with 'it' not connected, what exactly do you mean? With the external regulator not connected? With the PCM not connected? With the alternator not connected to the PCM? By 'crank' do you mean it won't turn over (the correct definition), or that it will not fire/run?

I'm guessing it has an XJ wiring harness in it, since you believe it's a 93 HO engine. Radio... Probably tapped the wrong wire for the 'switched ignition' to turn it on. I think you'll have to pull the dash and chase what it's hooked to. Radio/stereo installs tend to be the #1 hacked thing in vehicles since every person out there takes a stab at installing one. Dome lights? I assume you mean the ones in the B pillar. If so, I'm guessing because it has an XJ harness in it, there wouldn't be anything to hook them too without splicing or swapping some plugs and extending things. Unfortunately you'll probably have to pull the entire interior to find out what they did and make it right. For your fuel gauge sender issue, the easiest would be to try to find a HO sender/pump/pickup assembly from the classifieds here, eBay or a junkyard. They aren't easy to find. Hacking the tray to fit an XJ sender is well, hack, but if need be that would be the next option. Or I suppose you could order a new tank that doesn't have the tray/baffle in it, but I'm not sure which comes without, and honestly it was in there from the factory for a good reason.

So, is this supposed to be hardcore technical stuff, like oddball axle swaps, custom link suspension, installing engines that were never factory in the XJ/MJ chassis, etc? Or am I supposed to ask a technical question is prose? IE: My water pump appears on the fritz, I could use your help with a fix, Must I buy one from the dealer, Or can I go with something cheaper?

What's it for? [ep-ik] adjective, Also, epical 1. noting or pertaining to a long poetic composition, usually centered upon a hero, in which a series of great achievements or events is narrated in elevated style: Homer's Iliad is an epic poem.

This wouldn't be for my 88, but if it was easy enough to do I would ditch the cable setup in both it and my XJ in a heartbeat. The early electric speedometers use a little signal generator box that screws into the cable drive on the tcase, so it's easy to add them to any tcase that uses the 7/8th inch (IIRC) cable drive. Obviously there is pin differences between the Renix and HO cluster, since the Renix doesn't have any provisions for an electric speedometer, but one reasonably could overcome this by using a mismatch of components or splicing some extra connections in. Wires could be added to the vehicle as needed, it could just be done on a pegboard as a separate harness and then installed. Anyways, since it appears the TCU or ECU likely modifies the output, there is not likely an easy way to make it work. Unless like I mentioned, somebody sells a signal converter for this.

Who are you ordering a cluster from?

It's easy. I've never done it on a tcase that new, but there's very few tricks to it. I recommend doing it on the bench in the vertical position (tail shaft up) as I find it makes life easier. Make sure you verify it will shift before you put it back in, you can C#*@ the shift fork off and jam it, make sure you get the oil pump seated right and the pickup tube in it, and beyond that as long as you keep things clean and use enough RTV it will be fine.

Yeah, Dakota Digital has various signal conversion boxes, along with some other companies. That said, it's probably not worth it then. But I could look into it a bit more. IMHO the factory cluster looks and fits better than most other options. I spent some time trying to fit a GPS speedo and matching tach into the stock cluster and was never happy with the results.

That's for if you lock your keys inside, you just gotta strip down and lube up so you can wiggle through!

Full float axles have gigantic hub that sticks out through the wheel. No regular full floating truck axle can run the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, the hub is simply too large. Incommando's comment that it might be out of an old Mopar would make sense. Some did use a semi-floating D60 and they were drilled for the small 5x4.5 pattern. They're also 30 spline shafts and typically came with tall gears, but who knows without popping the cover.

I might look at the HO wiring diagrams later today then.

That would be the big concern. If it came 'close' when installing the tranny, and then it was sucked together with the bolts... You might well have mangled things that don't like to be mangled.

Search failed me - Is the electric speedometer on the HO more or less a standalone component, as in as long as you have the cluster and the little tach gen box that goes on the speedo drive and a couple wires it will work? Or does it integrate with something like the PCM/ECM/whatever other magical boxes and miles of wiring? I want to use one for a swap rather than a cable drive simply so I don't have to route a cable. It just seems like a better solution. Yes Hornbrod, I am admitting that certain Chrysler components are better.

It's a bracket for the vent line, IIRC.