DirtyComanche

Good to see you're making progress. Is that the MercedesDiesel4x4 modded oil pan you have now? How bad did it look like it would be to move the pickup tube to the rear?

That said most likely the slave cylinder has a pinhole leak in it, or one of the orings on the pressure and bleed lines, or the actual hose has a pinhole leak. If you get it bled, even poorly, it should stay bled. Since you have an internal slave, it makes it very hard to see small problems until it blows up completely.

You don't pump the pedal. All that does is causes air bubbles to become entrapped in the fluid. The clutch is bled by opening the bleeder screw, pushing the pedal to the floor and holding it there, and then closing the bleeder screw. Release the pedal and repeat. I've also had no issues pushing the pedal down, wedging it with a stick, and then opening the screw and closing it when the fluid flow stops, but that is not what the manual recommends. I put a hose on the end of the bleeder and run it into a bottle also, as this makes it less likely to accidentally pull air back into the system. Plus it saves the mess.

Dunno about the switch rod. But I managed it without the lockplate tool, really not that bad, about a 2/10 by standards of stupid helicopter stuff, would have been easier if I had more than one pick and a slotted screwdriver on me. Anyways, the cylinder is lying on the floor with all the fuel pumps now, so just gotta swap a couple tires with ones that are round and I can unload it at some point.

That sounds like it should only be about a weekend of debauchery away...

Look like a good starting point. Sell that tailgate to me, since it looks like you won't need it.

I'll just order one. It's $23 on Amazon. Looking at the column they hamfisted it anyways. I've got another one here that I'll swap the lock cylinder on and install instead. Might just break this one farther so I can steer the thing. Oh yeah, I cleaned the big chunks of garbage out of it today since I have to go to the dump tomorrow anyways. I found no less than 6 fuel pumps scattered on the floor and seat and 2 more in the box.

What's the deal with the Overlander vs other models? There's tons of very clean WJs for sale with blown up engines, at least that I see. If I was serious I'd get one of those, and go straight to a not-Chrysler engine option. It seems like a great chassis, but everything stock in the drivetrain seems to just suck. Fake D44 rear axle, tcase with a viscous coupler that dies, transmissions that die, pistons dropping skirts, etc. My mom has a plane jane one with the 4.0 in it and it's been great though. Also not abused.

Lots of nice WJs are out there for cheap. I debated picking one up as something a little different.

Yeah. I was like "No, I'm not doing it. Nope. Nope. Can't. Not possible. Go work on the J truck and get it good to go and forget about this." Next thing you know I'm trying to unload the parts J20 from the trailer so I can go get it.

I probably will, they're only $20 CAD... But I'll admit I've actually never pulled a steering column apart. I'll give him a couple days to try to find them, it's going to sit on the trailer that long anyways. What would be nice is if you could order the bisexual ignition cylinder and door locks as a set, and I could just convert the whole thing to that setup, like my 88 is.

I absolutely don't have the space or time for any other vehicles. I just don't. It's not possible, or workable, or anything. I did sell the extra XJ I had for a tidy profit (about $2k), but I didn't sell my J10 and decided I'd at least fix it up a bit so it was reliable and then either drive it or sell it. But then I spied this poor little guy out on the reservation, mixed in with a ton of other junk vehicles. So, what can you do? Everyone needs a home. That's the better side as far as straightness. The other side has a creased fender and door, and one little dent in the cab from being hit by something. Tailgate is a little bent and jammed, but not terrible. But it looks like the only rust on the whole thing is around the bottom of the taillights, which is kinda odd actually... I'm sure if I pull the flares I'll find more, but really, it's surprisingly nice in that regard. Hopefully he finds the keys before I dig into it. Loading it with the steering locked and the nowhere near round rear tire was less than ideal... Unloading it will be worse.

I agree. I don't know what the application was, but I remember always running into them in the PnP. Chevy or Dodge something, would have had to be in the transition years in the late 80s/early 90s, I think. But I honestly don't know, that was a long time ago. I'm trying to get a passenger drop 241 for a contingency option on one of my current projects. They are rare now. I don't know why guys are using them for LS swaps, there's better options.

Just buy them new. They're wear parts.

I'm also a "make your own kit" guy. I'm about triage, not doing things right. Quick clot, burn dressings, tourniquet, lots of bigger dressings, gauze, and tape. It's all just stick yourself back together and go home stuff. I haven't used a bandaid in 20 years, I'm not about to start now.

I'll save the Pirate4x4 style response that I want to type and instead just say I'm glad you got the truck back.

I want to make a trar. Of course AMC basically sold one, so I guess I could get one of those.

The "Solid choice" part was sarcasm.

The most overprice and overrated truck of all time. Solid choice.

I'm on my third or fourth Acer in a row. This is an Aspire Nitro, basically it's sold as a gaming rig, but I bought it just to be able to render video. It will be the last Acer I own. Build quality is terrible compared with the earlier ones. When I bought this one, the first one I was shipped was NFG, bad battery or charge controller and would only charge to random amounts, Acer wanted to take it for a couple weeks to fix it, so I just exchanged it with Amazon instead (they overnighted another one and let me return the first one at my leisure). Since then I've had keys hanging up and the backlight on the screen has done odd things. All in all it isn't as sturdy of a case as the earlier Aspires were either, you can feel it flex and creak all the time. I do not anticipate it will last anywhere near as long as the other ones did. My very first Acer was purchased in a Walmart in the middle of the night for $220. I broke my other laptop and needed one for that morning to print plane tickets. I took it all over the US, Canada, Afghanistan, etc for 4 or 5 years. The battery eventually was totally toast on it, but it still worked fine otherwise, but it simply isn't economical to buy a battery for a $220 laptop.

That's a hell of an assumption you're making there. Being that you'd offend me with that.

I used a Luk. The slave exploded. In fact everyone I know personally that used the Luk slave had it explode. One guy went through 7? of them before he just lost his mind and found an external slave AX-15. There appears to only be two slave cylinders on the market. The Luk one and the Centric one, or plastic vs aluminum. When I say I had a Luk fail, it was definitely Luk branded, the guy I know that burned though them tried many from different 'brands' but they were all the same (there's one factory making them, some very minor changes existed but they may have even been just batch number specific). I went with the Centric aluminum one for the second go, and it's been good so far.

Is "Cut them off and buy new ones" not an acceptable answer? Assuming he actually wants to know the socket size...

The contacts on the circuit board thingy on the cluster will corrode and do that too. But check the ground first. And as said, verify actual voltage with a meter to make sure it is charging correct and whatnot.

He's got a manual tranny, use 75w-90 GL5 oil, or something like that. Same for the axles. Personally I like synthetics, that's me. Tcase can use any ATF. Dex/Merc III is still available, but later Jeep manuals will say ATF+4 because they're Chrysler. It doesn't matter which, just make sure you put ATF in it and not gear oil.