DirtyComanche

You might also consider putting premium or non-ethanol gas in it. Sta-bil only goes so far.

How long has it been sitting? How old is the fuel? Pull the line off from before the fuel filter and direct it into a bucket, wire the pump on, it will empty the tank almost entirely in no time. If you pump it into a clean bucket you can possibly see if there's major problems with the fuel, but the pickup sock may be plugged and the bit of fuel that gets through might be okay looking. Also, if you put a cheap pump/sock in, the sock might have broken down and plugged itself.

So it still has spark now? Nice and strong? If you have a timing light you can confirm it's happening at a reasonable time too. I'd put a fuel pressure gauge on it if so. Might be a dying regulator or pump, and it's just not got enough jam. Could be a plugged filter or skanky gas if it's been sitting too.

That's not even the big one. https://www.amazon.ca/Makita-5402NA-16-5-16-Inch-Circular/dp/B0000614UR

Exactly.

I wouldn't pay anything for that style cupholder... It doesn't actually hold a cup, so it's not much good...

Yeah, well, maybe if I stop working on my plow truck and other junk...

Make sure you're not shorting to any of the other connectors on the ignition relay.

Apparently they're amazing. I think people these days are soft. A couple winters back we got pinched on a job with a cargo hook that wouldn't release. It was -45, basically the cutoff for cold, but the customer had people out and wanted to go... The fast way to get at the adjustment for the release you have to wiggle past the hook and into the helicopter, and well, unless you're a skinny guy it's not really easy. I'm fairly skinny, but I also had a thick jacket, hoodie, and two shirts, along with insulated bib pants on. So, I took all of that off save one shirt so I could squeeze past the damn hook to adjust it. Wedged against cold aluminum, soaking up the leaked hydraulic fluid and turbine oil, I bare hand fiddled with that damn thing until it seemed good, then wiggled myself back out and onto the snow. I was cold. Real cold. And wet from the oils and the snow. But we were back in business. The next turn the fuel gauge quit and I had nothing with me that could fix that, and that killed the day. What a miserable time for absolutely no point. Wait, where was I going with this story? Oh yeah, the fuel gauge quit because the shop that had rebuilt some of the electrical components for us did not believe they were faulty, when we had very specifically laid out what the fault was and how it could only be produced in certain circumstances, and actually just put them back it without doing anything but a basic diagnostic that wouldn't reveal what was wrong with them. Thanks. Anyways, buy a heated jacket, and stay in school, don't wind up like me.

How bad is the rust INSIDE the frame there? Normally problems show up just in front or around the front spring hangers. The top channels by the bed mounts often go too from stuff sitting on them that's caught by the mounts. The box mounts will get thin over time too, take a look at them and see, they're probably still okay though. Under the cab it's generally because of rot through the floorboards, which then transfers to the frame below it. Also the LCA pockets can trap stuff and cause issues. Steering box area can crack, along with around the track bar bracket, normally this is a problem that was caused by massive abuse or other issues. Look for rust there too, as the metal is stressed it is more prone to corrosion. Otherwise I'd just look it all over. I've never actually seen an MJ frame fail from any sort of use that could be considered regular. The main thing if you're exposing it to salt is that you kill all the rust and get it sealed again properly. How you do that is up to your budget and willingness to deal with it. For something that bad I don't know what to say, other than getting the whole chassis dipped and coated. Edit, not sure if you meant just the frame for the bed area, or the whole thing, so I added some stuff.

The way AMC did it is garbage (HOrnbroad will hear this and perk up to come say "I told you so!!!!!!!!!!!!!"), but what you've got going on isn't factory and is even worse. The alternator should be hooked directly to the battery, as this helps to even out the ripple output from the alternator (noise) and the battery will protect the rest of the system by absorbing voltage/current spikes. They didn't do this as it would save money. Actually the reason they wired everything the way they did was to save money. And it's a terrible setup with random fusible links and everything ganged off the starter/ignition relay. Anyways, at the very least you need to replace that wire and fuse from your battery to the starter relay. 8ga minimum, and if you must use a fuse go big with a 100A maxi-fuse, the fuse isn't going to protect the relay (it's really not what fuses do), rather it will protect the vehicle from a fire if there's a dead short (maybe). There's little point having a fuse there, IMHO. And the advice to cut the large cables to length is good advice, a few feet of unneeded wire does increase the resistance by enough to be noticeable, often only a few feet is the difference between needing to go up another size or not. The factory used terribly undersized battery cables, because again, it saved money.

Winch load (however small) is dropping the battery voltage, and that insanely undersized wire/fuse setup to the ignition relay lets go with the current increase. Or it's the alternator that's popping it when the winch pulls the battery down. I don't know which, it doesn't matter, that wire is way too small. Mine is either 6 or 4 awg and there's an 80 amp or so fuse on it, I'd have to check to be sure, but it's whatever I calculated to be suitable, and the alternator is directly hooked to the battery.

I did not buy a turbo. Because I spent a bunch of money on Amazon the day before... figured I'd be responsible.

Hmm. Should I order a turbo or not....

A 4' strap wouldn't go around a lot of the trees here. Edit, I use a 20'. Because it's what I have more than really needing a 20'. But longer is normally better, and you can always wrap it a second time if you're somehow too close.

The slightly updated model of the J3, called the J3 "Emerge", has the accelerometers and compass necessary for that function to work. I believe the latest J7 (Refine) will also have these features. Apparently enough people were annoyed by the poor function of Maps without it, so they added them. Tell them to stop trying to sell you old stock.

Why not swap the thread adapter? Or try a standard thread oil filter (should be 91+).

This happens a lot. The cylinder wears out and it will let you turn it to the ACC position and pull the key. Try wiggling it more, I bet the actual lock position is a bit farther forwards then you think. Mine comes out in any position. New lock cylinders are cheap, I just haven't done it because I quite enjoy how mine is keyed the same as the doors (using the Chrysler bisexual key), and honestly it's a handy undocumented feature to be able to start it, pull the key out, then use it to lock the door.

Listing is gone?

Glad they finally recognized you for this. Too bad they didn't get it right in the first place.

Pressure regulator it leaking internally, or an injector is leaking, or the check valve in the pump is bad. You can pull the injector rail off (with the injectors in it) and key the ignition to run the pump, see if any of them weep. You can also vice grip the return or feed line to the rail after shutdown to probably determine if it's the pump or the regulator, but use some caution when doing this and only check the pressure is holding via a gauge.

Is auto parts considered 'outdoor'?

That's not good. At least he's off the ventilator though, so things are going the right direction. Scary stuff. We're all pulling for you HOrnbrod!

This is the first one I tried that actually worked in Canada. Of course I didn't buy what I needed with it. So uh, oops.