DirtyComanche

Good sun screen, applied often, works. I often weld without a shirt on.

It will.

Don't worry too much about appearance with 6011, it isn't known for looking good.

i have used 6013 like twice for sheet metal i use 6011 instead. and of course i live in oregon and that is the easiest thing to come by here but whatever works i guess! 6011 penetrates much deeper than 6013. 6013 is ment for low-strength applications in the flat position. So, it works pretty well for welding in floors and not a lot else. But, it is a lot about what you're comfortable with.

The vac axle doesn't change anything. Renix era MJ/XJs had either. The 4wd indicator has to be swapped possibly. Unless you're talking an electronic drive speedometer on the tcase.... In which case the cable setup is a direct swap (the parts are interchangable, I finially went out and checked). OBD anything sucks, IMHO. I don't care for it.

Okay, there's a couple. There's one at the taillights that grounds the rear half of the truck. Look in the driver's side light. It should work as long as that ground is hooked up. Now, there's also a fuel system ground, and it is under the dash IIRC.

If the gauge has a bad ground, or the sending unit does, it'll be all over the map.

On pirate, in the cherokee section, the owner posted in the MJ thread. It's pretty beat now.

Like my boss always said 'It ain't plumbin' if it ain't a Lenny." :nuts: The funny part about that is he's a professional pilot, with both fixed wing and rotary certs.

Yeah. I should just sandblast the joint and weld it back up. The propane is just going to kill it anyways. I'll wait and see if I can swap an HO head onto it at some point, and buy a header for that if it works. Maybe. The stock HO ones are actually really good. The renix ones leave a bit to be desired.

Got rid of this crap. Well, I might need to remove some of it for re-use. I want this thing to run with only 3 or 4 wires (not including plugs). I think I can pull it off. Image Not Found And I'll budget a couple wires for lighting. I guess. I think I'll install a battery isolator too. Might as well. I dropped the tank. What a PITA if you're alone. Image Not Found Especially because it is almost right full. I guess I'll take it to school and use it to run our 320ci 4cyl. Hopefully it can run on 87... No tank. Might ditch the decking too. Image Not Found Or maybe the whole deck? Engine is pretty naked now. Not done yet, but close... Image Not Found I gotta change that disty out. Tomorrow, I guess. Image Not Found Interior is mostly done. Heater core is still in place. Image Not Found They don't make them easy to remove. I think I should just man up and order a header for this thing too. Since the one I had is cracked to rat-$#!&. And I realized that I gave all my intake mounting bolts to my friend, along with a pile of the EFI junk. Ohwell, at least I know where they went. And Pat, I forgot to take pics of the propane jazz. I'll remember tomorrow, hopefully.

Exactly. Or just buck them off with a sawzall and don't worry about it. I can cut straight with a sawzall.

Toaster ovens work great for drying rod. Just don't let the lady catch you.

When? And what? Does he still ship it with gr5 bolts?

It just shuts off the flow of vapourized propane to the mixer. Otherwise there is the potential that the entire tank of propane will slowly bleed into the intake manifold. The vacuum ones open when the engine is pulling a vacuum. And the electric ones can just be put on a toggle switch. Typically the electric ones are used for dual fuel and the vacuum ones for straight propane. Personally I see nothing wrong with having one more toggle switch that needs to be thrown to start the engine.

There's not much avaliable as far as parts selection. Typically for a mixer the Impco 425 is the best bet for a used dealio. The OHG 450s have an issue as they age, unless you want to do a bunch of work on them. There's the Impco 300A for dual fuel use, and it's kinda weird. And 225s and smaller versions, which aren't much good but for very small enignes. All the mixers have the make/model stamped on them in large obvious lettering. Most guys run impco model E regulators. They're pretty much the best bet. Almost all the other models are ment for light duty use or small engine applications. And for the lock-off valve, there's pretty much the choice between a vacuum or electric one. Either works.

For a little inspiration, check these pictures. They are what my buddy is building for his girlfriend's Chevy Tracker, and it will be her DD.HERE! It's overkill, for sure, but I doubt her tracker will go snap anytime soon. That's Kraqa's girl's rig. Kelsey, IIRC. I think she's a crazier driver than he is.

If you never plan to move it, a bench top model is great. I actually have a bench top one, on the floor... The more tools the better.

Yeah, timing for propane is more advanced. They sell 'propane curve' internals for many distributors. But really it's just advanced a couple degrees more at base, and the curve is a bit steeper. There's no set rule for it, you pretty much have to play with it until it works well. If you actually bring the compression ratio up to ideal, it's pretty much the same as if you were running gas. The heating system is simple. It runs liquid from the tank to the regulator. The regulator is actually a vapourizer too, and has an element in it to pipe coolant through it. It works fine as long as the coolant is warm enough at startup, or it might ice up. If it is really cold you have to start it and get it to idle, and leave it there until the coolant is hot enough. And somewhere around -45 you're flat out @#$%ed. Unless you know a few tricks. Anyways, I'm just going to have to tee into a couple hoses. I'll get you somne pics of the components if I remember.

I hadn't realized just how WIDE Derek's truck is.

Something like that... Plastics have all these horrible acrynoms instead of names.

I had that kit. So I feel I can bash it. For a few bucks it can be made way better. Pull their joints and thread in some Evos and put jam nuts on them. I've seen threads pull from wear when being used like that. Sure, they'll last a long time. But when it happens it's majorly bad.

Is there any tips on pulling the heater/heater core/vent system without destroying all of it? I got a lot of it off already, but I need to pull the main housing. There's some studs going through the firewall, do they hold it all in? Here's the stuff I pulled out... Image Not Found HVAC that I don't want to destroy. Image Not Found Intake off, some of the EFI junk still there. I gotta take a bunch of time and pull it all. Image Not Found Yeah, she's really clean. Okay, I need to pick up a case of brakeclean. Image Not Found Box of stuff... Image Not Found

No idea on the CFM. But with the both of them on high, small animals and young children get sucked into my grille.

I tried to get one of those but never found an intrepid in the junkyard. So I used taurus fans.